accessAtlanta

City & State or ZIP Tonight, this weekend, May 5th...
City & State or ZIP
City & State or ZIP Tonight, this weekend, May 5th...
City & State or ZIP

The best restaurants in Atlanta 2009: Songs of the South

Abattoir's chicken liver and foie gras mousse/Credit: AJC

Abattoir's chicken liver and foie gras mousse/Credit: AJC

The lagging economy can’t stop Atlanta’s restaurants from setting a pace that’s continually being recognized nationally. We have great restaurants, and we’re not afraid to show it. With the entire ruckus, a brand new breed of regional cuisine has emerged. Restaurants that exude modernity while embracing what’s best about Southern cooking have blossomed as examples of what’s best about Atlanta dining now: farm-fresh ingredients, artisanal methods from cheese making to butchery and the love of preserving. Plus there’s always dessert, something these restaurants prove is at the top of any great Southern menu. These six restaurants exemplify what’s best about Atlanta restaurants now.

ABATTOIR ****

1170 Howell Mill Road, inside the White Provision complex, Atlanta, 404-892-3335

Atlanta’s most lauded restaurateurs, Anne Quatrano and Clifford Harrison, have created in Abattoir a personal statement that has already become, after recently opening this past summer, a benchmark in Atlanta dining. Much has been made of the meat-centric menu, created by Quatrano and chef Joshua Hopkins. But eating here is about so much more than offal, alternative meat cuts and innards. The vegetables, whether in a crisped salad of fresh farm lettuces crowned with a poached egg and bacon or in a pickling of cabbage served from a jar, are as much a reason to crow about Abattoir as the chicken liver and foie gras mousse laced with Armagnac. Add a weathered, modern farmhouse look, an excellent cocktail list and a staff that pleases, and Abattoir may be the best reason yet to embrace your inner carnivore while eating your veggies.

CAKES & ALE ****

54 W. Ponce de Leon Ave., Decatur. 404-377-7994

Chef-owner Billy Allin and wife Kristin have created in Cakes & Ale the perfect balance between farm fresh (the couple grows many of the vegetables on the menu in their back yard) and friendly. The menu, drawn nightly on a large blackboard, is part seasonal, part standard and all genius: My last meal here offered crisped spears of okra (soon to be gone, I’m sure), perfect in heat and texture, lightly battered with cornmeal to be dipped in house-made ranch dressing. Order your own; they are not to be shared. Ditto the hot orbs of arancini, laced with bee pollen and fennel, served in a papered cone like fair food. Fish is something Allin cooks better than most chefs in the city, even though the fresh corn and pole beans in brodo under a halibut steak could stand on their own. Desserts, from pastry chef Cynthia Wong, are playfully plebian: The soft, cream-filled “phatty cakes” have become city legend, and warm chocolate pudding with soft cream served in a pickling jar will conjure memories of mom’s apron strings. Editor’s note: If you’re noticing an extra star at the end of the restaurant’s name, that’s because there is one: No restaurant has proved its mettle more than Cakes & Ale since it’s opening, so it’s gone from a three- to four-star status.

4th & SWIFT ****

621 North Ave. N.E., Atlanta, 678-904-0160

The space is classic Atlanta: a roomy, cavernous affair drawn from the remnants of the Southern Dairies building; the stylish bar drapes one side of the massive room while a modern dining room is set on another. Both set the stage for chef-owner Jay Swift’s contemporary Southern menu. And from soup to nuts, Swift delivers – his soups are always a best start to a meal here, from creamy roasted corn to more fall-like inspirations of butternut squash with maple cream. A plate of Berkshire pork belly, loin, and house-made sausage has become a signature, served with the restaurant’s decadent macaroni-and-cheese. Swift’s hand is subtle, and it’s not unusual to see heirloom vegetables highlighted as nightly specials.

JCT KITCHEN ****

1198 Howell Mill Road, Atlanta. 404-355-2252

JCT Kitchen has, from the start, exemplified what’s best about modern Southern cooking. Chef-owner Ford Fry adds to fresh, well-sourced ingredients classical French technique and Southern sensibilities, creating a menu that turns our timeless notion of how we cook on its ear. From his otherworldly fried chicken (part crispy, part juicy) with mac-and cheese so rich and creamy it should have its own zip code to “angry” mussels spiced and peppered with serrano chile, bacon and a bit of onion in a broth that borders on creaminess, this kitchen offers a tasty take on all that’s right about the Southern dining now. Desserts set the bar high for other offerings; rarely do I find anything to argue about with milky, sugar-and-rum sopped tres leches topped with coconut, or soft gingerbread pudding cake with tart Meyer lemon curd. Barkeep Lara Creasy adds a sexy dimension to the cocktails, too: Try her “fields of gold” with Number 209 gin, chamomile-infused vermouth, local honey, lemon juice and fennel pollen.

Gingerbread pudding cake and lemon curd at JCT Kitchen/ Credit: AJC

Gingerbread pudding cake and lemon curd at JCT Kitchen/ Credit: AJC

REPAST ****

620 Glen Iris Drive, Atlanta. 404-870-8707

Alluring Medjool dates wrapped with bacon and stuffed with marcona almonds notwithstanding, Repast’s menu has become a reflection of chef-owners and husband-and-wife team Joe Truex and Mihoko Obunai’s yin yang of talents and tastes. I’m not a fan of the all-Eastern selections, such as the congee-like lobster and king crab nabe yaki, but when these two put their heads together in the kitchen the results are a blessed meeting of East meets South. Stewed and curried okra with peanuts and dishes such as crab cakes “Repast style,” which are firmer and more purin pudding-like than their Western counterparts, marry Truex’s Southern roots with Obunai’s Japanese ancestry. And the truffled corn, creamed and served au gratin, is just plain mind numbing, no matter what side of the planet you’re on. Desserts are always special, and where Obunai’s touch is most appreciated, from a creamy olive oil cake with marcona almond ice cream to coconut cream in a crispy jasmine rice tart.

SHAUN’S ****

1029 Edgewood Ave. N.E., Atlanta. 404-577-4358

When chef-owner Shaun Doty’s eponymous restaurant in Inman Park opened in 2007, it was instantly to Atlanta what the Savings & Loan was to Bedford Falls: a genuine place to go and, in the restaurant’s case, eat. Since then, the East Village style chicken livers over toast, steak frites with fries “graisse de carnard” style and pork schnitzel with lemon and peanuts have become some of the best reasons to eat out in Atlanta. Doty cooks seasonally, so things change here as much as they remain the same, but let’s hope he always manages to keep the sticky toffee pudding on the menu, no matter the season. Its gooey, sticky butterscotch-y goodness gets my vote as one of the best desserts the city has to offer.

74 comments Add your comment

Cookie

December 27th, 2009
7:27 pm

You missed a great one: “Relish” in Roswell!

Jay

December 27th, 2009
1:53 pm

Further – Shaune’s may be one the worst restaurants I have tried five times. I kept going back hoping that things would improve or match people’s reports. I DID mention the issues I had with each meal and all I got from them was “oh sorry you feel that way” attitude. I won’t go back again or recommend it to anyone.

Jay

December 27th, 2009
1:51 pm

Each of these restaurants pale in comparison to Craft. Why not mention of Craft?!

Jack

December 27th, 2009
12:10 pm

Shaun’s has very ordinary food and a waitstaff with terrible attitudes. When you pay good money for a babysitter and a nice night out, the last thing I need is some “hipper than thou” attitude from a pompous waitress. We will never return. Too bad for Shaun.

shark eyes

December 27th, 2009
12:08 pm

Shaun’s? Really? I’ve been there a few times and the service/food is just poor. Friends and I have discussed as I’ve never met anyone who really raves about the place(or even likes it) , yet it consistently gets on lists like this. We call it a case of the “Emperors New Clothes”. I dare a food critic to be objecttive with this place at the risk of hurting Shaun’s ego.

Nan

December 27th, 2009
10:20 am

You forgot Agave. I took my daughter there last night and had of the most memorable dinners in Atlanta in a long time. She works in a very fine restaurant in Savannah and was very impressed with the service, drinks and quality of food. When you go there ask for ouwaiter “Spedino” and I will bet that you have not had a better waiter here in Atlanta!!! Go Agave!!

Christian

December 23rd, 2009
2:24 pm

Not disputing the choices above but wanted to toss out a recommendation to the e-world. I am a big fan of Kyma…it has been around but they are consistently good when I have been there.

Rod

December 22nd, 2009
12:35 pm

Anna – “Oh, my God!!! Oh, my God!!! It’s Kevin from Top Chef!!! Helloooo Kevin, you hoo!!! I love it here, the food is just wonderful!”

Being star-struck for a reality-tv “star”, does not make for good food.

Anna

December 21st, 2009
11:25 pm

What happened to Woodfire Grill? Kevin made it to top 3 on Top Chef, and was fan favorite- rightly so. I agree with these choices as fine eateries, but Woodfire Grill brought more than awesome food and a charming atmosphere. It brought respect to the thriving and highly evolved Atlanta dining season. That alone deserves recognition on this list.

Weaver

December 18th, 2009
11:26 am

Weaver D’s……Athens, GA….True soul food from the south..