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The best restaurants in Atlanta 2009: Songs of the South

Abattoir's chicken liver and foie gras mousse/Credit: AJC

Abattoir's chicken liver and foie gras mousse/Credit: AJC

The lagging economy can’t stop Atlanta’s restaurants from setting a pace that’s continually being recognized nationally. We have great restaurants, and we’re not afraid to show it. With the entire ruckus, a brand new breed of regional cuisine has emerged. Restaurants that exude modernity while embracing what’s best about Southern cooking have blossomed as examples of what’s best about Atlanta dining now: farm-fresh ingredients, artisanal methods from cheese making to butchery and the love of preserving. Plus there’s always dessert, something these restaurants prove is at the top of any great Southern menu. These six restaurants exemplify what’s best about Atlanta restaurants now.

ABATTOIR ****

1170 Howell Mill Road, inside the White Provision complex, Atlanta, 404-892-3335

Atlanta’s most lauded restaurateurs, Anne Quatrano and Clifford Harrison, have created in Abattoir a personal statement that has already become, after recently opening this past summer, a benchmark in Atlanta dining. Much has been made of the meat-centric menu, created by Quatrano and chef Joshua Hopkins. But eating here is about so much more than offal, alternative meat cuts and innards. The vegetables, whether in a crisped salad of fresh farm lettuces crowned with a poached egg and bacon or in a pickling of cabbage served from a jar, are as much a reason to crow about Abattoir as the chicken liver and foie gras mousse laced with Armagnac. Add a weathered, modern farmhouse look, an excellent cocktail list and a staff that pleases, and Abattoir may be the best reason yet to embrace your inner carnivore while eating your veggies.

CAKES & ALE ****

54 W. Ponce de Leon Ave., Decatur. 404-377-7994

Chef-owner Billy Allin and wife Kristin have created in Cakes & Ale the perfect balance between farm fresh (the couple grows many of the vegetables on the menu in their back yard) and friendly. The menu, drawn nightly on a large blackboard, is part seasonal, part standard and all genius: My last meal here offered crisped spears of okra (soon to be gone, I’m sure), perfect in heat and texture, lightly battered with cornmeal to be dipped in house-made ranch dressing. Order your own; they are not to be shared. Ditto the hot orbs of arancini, laced with bee pollen and fennel, served in a papered cone like fair food. Fish is something Allin cooks better than most chefs in the city, even though the fresh corn and pole beans in brodo under a halibut steak could stand on their own. Desserts, from pastry chef Cynthia Wong, are playfully plebian: The soft, cream-filled “phatty cakes” have become city legend, and warm chocolate pudding with soft cream served in a pickling jar will conjure memories of mom’s apron strings. Editor’s note: If you’re noticing an extra star at the end of the restaurant’s name, that’s because there is one: No restaurant has proved its mettle more than Cakes & Ale since it’s opening, so it’s gone from a three- to four-star status.

4th & SWIFT ****

621 North Ave. N.E., Atlanta, 678-904-0160

The space is classic Atlanta: a roomy, cavernous affair drawn from the remnants of the Southern Dairies building; the stylish bar drapes one side of the massive room while a modern dining room is set on another. Both set the stage for chef-owner Jay Swift’s contemporary Southern menu. And from soup to nuts, Swift delivers – his soups are always a best start to a meal here, from creamy roasted corn to more fall-like inspirations of butternut squash with maple cream. A plate of Berkshire pork belly, loin, and house-made sausage has become a signature, served with the restaurant’s decadent macaroni-and-cheese. Swift’s hand is subtle, and it’s not unusual to see heirloom vegetables highlighted as nightly specials.

JCT KITCHEN ****

1198 Howell Mill Road, Atlanta. 404-355-2252

JCT Kitchen has, from the start, exemplified what’s best about modern Southern cooking. Chef-owner Ford Fry adds to fresh, well-sourced ingredients classical French technique and Southern sensibilities, creating a menu that turns our timeless notion of how we cook on its ear. From his otherworldly fried chicken (part crispy, part juicy) with mac-and cheese so rich and creamy it should have its own zip code to “angry” mussels spiced and peppered with serrano chile, bacon and a bit of onion in a broth that borders on creaminess, this kitchen offers a tasty take on all that’s right about the Southern dining now. Desserts set the bar high for other offerings; rarely do I find anything to argue about with milky, sugar-and-rum sopped tres leches topped with coconut, or soft gingerbread pudding cake with tart Meyer lemon curd. Barkeep Lara Creasy adds a sexy dimension to the cocktails, too: Try her “fields of gold” with Number 209 gin, chamomile-infused vermouth, local honey, lemon juice and fennel pollen.

Gingerbread pudding cake and lemon curd at JCT Kitchen/ Credit: AJC

Gingerbread pudding cake and lemon curd at JCT Kitchen/ Credit: AJC

REPAST ****

620 Glen Iris Drive, Atlanta. 404-870-8707

Alluring Medjool dates wrapped with bacon and stuffed with marcona almonds notwithstanding, Repast’s menu has become a reflection of chef-owners and husband-and-wife team Joe Truex and Mihoko Obunai’s yin yang of talents and tastes. I’m not a fan of the all-Eastern selections, such as the congee-like lobster and king crab nabe yaki, but when these two put their heads together in the kitchen the results are a blessed meeting of East meets South. Stewed and curried okra with peanuts and dishes such as crab cakes “Repast style,” which are firmer and more purin pudding-like than their Western counterparts, marry Truex’s Southern roots with Obunai’s Japanese ancestry. And the truffled corn, creamed and served au gratin, is just plain mind numbing, no matter what side of the planet you’re on. Desserts are always special, and where Obunai’s touch is most appreciated, from a creamy olive oil cake with marcona almond ice cream to coconut cream in a crispy jasmine rice tart.

SHAUN’S ****

1029 Edgewood Ave. N.E., Atlanta. 404-577-4358

When chef-owner Shaun Doty’s eponymous restaurant in Inman Park opened in 2007, it was instantly to Atlanta what the Savings & Loan was to Bedford Falls: a genuine place to go and, in the restaurant’s case, eat. Since then, the East Village style chicken livers over toast, steak frites with fries “graisse de carnard” style and pork schnitzel with lemon and peanuts have become some of the best reasons to eat out in Atlanta. Doty cooks seasonally, so things change here as much as they remain the same, but let’s hope he always manages to keep the sticky toffee pudding on the menu, no matter the season. Its gooey, sticky butterscotch-y goodness gets my vote as one of the best desserts the city has to offer.

74 comments Add your comment

not impressed

November 4th, 2009
1:33 pm

I would have to agree with most of the comments about this article. The six restaurants that Meredith picked are average restaurants for Atlanta. There are so many good places to eat inside and outside the Perimeter! It would be very hard for me to pick my top 6 of ATL. Out of my favorites, each restaurant offers a different experience and something unique that I love about it. Meredith…we would like to see you dig a little deeper and find us something that will knock our socks off. Or, at least leave us with a full belly and a smile…without raping our wallets.

T.R.

November 3rd, 2009
8:44 pm

Once again, any discussion has to devolve into an OTP vs. ITP slug fest. Can we just give it a rest? I live on the boundary of both and there’s plenty of good on either side.

RK

November 3rd, 2009
6:06 pm

Sorry Rodney, but there are too many good restaurants in this town — if it is my first time there, and I didn’t like it, there are plenty of other places to try. I’ll never return to Repast; I was disappointed on so many levels.

mford

November 2nd, 2009
9:27 am

Lance — yes, I love la Pietra Cucina as well, but I chose a theme for the restaurants — a Southern theme for restaurants that say “This is Atlanta now.” Sorry if I didn’t make that clear enough. If I had stretched the list to ten, PC would have been included, as well as Dogwood, regardless of theme. So you are right — a great meal, reasonably priced.

food op

November 2nd, 2009
8:50 am

Shaun’s is not even a GOOD place to eat…enough said on that.

Let me get this straight, another advantage of living ITP, is that you enjoy waiting (read: poorly run restaurant) for long periods of time at a restaurant and OTP’s should go along with this? Get over yourself, bad service is bad service regardless of geography. And there is nothing wrong with using posts on this blog to dis bad food/service. I agree with the other’s on the list though, all great palces.

Jim.

November 1st, 2009
9:24 pm

…and why are all the silly pictures here half out of focus?

Jim.

November 1st, 2009
9:23 pm

Drove thru Taco Bell….. pretty good. $2.09 and not hungry anymore…and nothing to whine about on a blog….

Shaun G

November 1st, 2009
1:39 pm

I agree with food focused Wisteria was the worst meal I have every spent $ on. Abattoir , the rabbit in a jar was great, but the foie and chicken liver had a lot of veins in it for me. One question what’s up with the white tennis shoes on servers at Abattoir .

JJBally

November 1st, 2009
5:10 am

Shuan’s – Are you kidding me. This plays smells like a big fart from outside. The food – a Kroger chicken leg with boxed mash potatoes for 18 dollars. This place is embarrassing – people are getting duped into thinking this is good food.

JCT Kitchen – Food is not bad. Service is appalling. On a busy night the manager tried to bribe us with a lousy drink at the bar to give up our seats even before our desert arrived. How unprofessional can you get.

Vic

October 31st, 2009
3:02 pm

Southern food…..anyone heard of Dogwood? It should be mentioned in this mix, for what we are talking about…don’t you think?