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The best restaurants in Atlanta 2009: Songs of the South

Abattoir's chicken liver and foie gras mousse/Credit: AJC

Abattoir's chicken liver and foie gras mousse/Credit: AJC

The lagging economy can’t stop Atlanta’s restaurants from setting a pace that’s continually being recognized nationally. We have great restaurants, and we’re not afraid to show it. With the entire ruckus, a brand new breed of regional cuisine has emerged. Restaurants that exude modernity while embracing what’s best about Southern cooking have blossomed as examples of what’s best about Atlanta dining now: farm-fresh ingredients, artisanal methods from cheese making to butchery and the love of preserving. Plus there’s always dessert, something these restaurants prove is at the top of any great Southern menu. These six restaurants exemplify what’s best about Atlanta restaurants now.

ABATTOIR ****

1170 Howell Mill Road, inside the White Provision complex, Atlanta, 404-892-3335

Atlanta’s most lauded restaurateurs, Anne Quatrano and Clifford Harrison, have created in Abattoir a personal statement that has already become, after recently opening this past summer, a benchmark in Atlanta dining. Much has been made of the meat-centric menu, created by Quatrano and chef Joshua Hopkins. But eating here is about so much more than offal, alternative meat cuts and innards. The vegetables, whether in a crisped salad of fresh farm lettuces crowned with a poached egg and bacon or in a pickling of cabbage served from a jar, are as much a reason to crow about Abattoir as the chicken liver and foie gras mousse laced with Armagnac. Add a weathered, modern farmhouse look, an excellent cocktail list and a staff that pleases, and Abattoir may be the best reason yet to embrace your inner carnivore while eating your veggies.

CAKES & ALE ****

54 W. Ponce de Leon Ave., Decatur. 404-377-7994

Chef-owner Billy Allin and wife Kristin have created in Cakes & Ale the perfect balance between farm fresh (the couple grows many of the vegetables on the menu in their back yard) and friendly. The menu, drawn nightly on a large blackboard, is part seasonal, part standard and all genius: My last meal here offered crisped spears of okra (soon to be gone, I’m sure), perfect in heat and texture, lightly battered with cornmeal to be dipped in house-made ranch dressing. Order your own; they are not to be shared. Ditto the hot orbs of arancini, laced with bee pollen and fennel, served in a papered cone like fair food. Fish is something Allin cooks better than most chefs in the city, even though the fresh corn and pole beans in brodo under a halibut steak could stand on their own. Desserts, from pastry chef Cynthia Wong, are playfully plebian: The soft, cream-filled “phatty cakes” have become city legend, and warm chocolate pudding with soft cream served in a pickling jar will conjure memories of mom’s apron strings. Editor’s note: If you’re noticing an extra star at the end of the restaurant’s name, that’s because there is one: No restaurant has proved its mettle more than Cakes & Ale since it’s opening, so it’s gone from a three- to four-star status.

4th & SWIFT ****

621 North Ave. N.E., Atlanta, 678-904-0160

The space is classic Atlanta: a roomy, cavernous affair drawn from the remnants of the Southern Dairies building; the stylish bar drapes one side of the massive room while a modern dining room is set on another. Both set the stage for chef-owner Jay Swift’s contemporary Southern menu. And from soup to nuts, Swift delivers – his soups are always a best start to a meal here, from creamy roasted corn to more fall-like inspirations of butternut squash with maple cream. A plate of Berkshire pork belly, loin, and house-made sausage has become a signature, served with the restaurant’s decadent macaroni-and-cheese. Swift’s hand is subtle, and it’s not unusual to see heirloom vegetables highlighted as nightly specials.

JCT KITCHEN ****

1198 Howell Mill Road, Atlanta. 404-355-2252

JCT Kitchen has, from the start, exemplified what’s best about modern Southern cooking. Chef-owner Ford Fry adds to fresh, well-sourced ingredients classical French technique and Southern sensibilities, creating a menu that turns our timeless notion of how we cook on its ear. From his otherworldly fried chicken (part crispy, part juicy) with mac-and cheese so rich and creamy it should have its own zip code to “angry” mussels spiced and peppered with serrano chile, bacon and a bit of onion in a broth that borders on creaminess, this kitchen offers a tasty take on all that’s right about the Southern dining now. Desserts set the bar high for other offerings; rarely do I find anything to argue about with milky, sugar-and-rum sopped tres leches topped with coconut, or soft gingerbread pudding cake with tart Meyer lemon curd. Barkeep Lara Creasy adds a sexy dimension to the cocktails, too: Try her “fields of gold” with Number 209 gin, chamomile-infused vermouth, local honey, lemon juice and fennel pollen.

Gingerbread pudding cake and lemon curd at JCT Kitchen/ Credit: AJC

Gingerbread pudding cake and lemon curd at JCT Kitchen/ Credit: AJC

REPAST ****

620 Glen Iris Drive, Atlanta. 404-870-8707

Alluring Medjool dates wrapped with bacon and stuffed with marcona almonds notwithstanding, Repast’s menu has become a reflection of chef-owners and husband-and-wife team Joe Truex and Mihoko Obunai’s yin yang of talents and tastes. I’m not a fan of the all-Eastern selections, such as the congee-like lobster and king crab nabe yaki, but when these two put their heads together in the kitchen the results are a blessed meeting of East meets South. Stewed and curried okra with peanuts and dishes such as crab cakes “Repast style,” which are firmer and more purin pudding-like than their Western counterparts, marry Truex’s Southern roots with Obunai’s Japanese ancestry. And the truffled corn, creamed and served au gratin, is just plain mind numbing, no matter what side of the planet you’re on. Desserts are always special, and where Obunai’s touch is most appreciated, from a creamy olive oil cake with marcona almond ice cream to coconut cream in a crispy jasmine rice tart.

SHAUN’S ****

1029 Edgewood Ave. N.E., Atlanta. 404-577-4358

When chef-owner Shaun Doty’s eponymous restaurant in Inman Park opened in 2007, it was instantly to Atlanta what the Savings & Loan was to Bedford Falls: a genuine place to go and, in the restaurant’s case, eat. Since then, the East Village style chicken livers over toast, steak frites with fries “graisse de carnard” style and pork schnitzel with lemon and peanuts have become some of the best reasons to eat out in Atlanta. Doty cooks seasonally, so things change here as much as they remain the same, but let’s hope he always manages to keep the sticky toffee pudding on the menu, no matter the season. Its gooey, sticky butterscotch-y goodness gets my vote as one of the best desserts the city has to offer.

74 comments Add your comment

alan

October 31st, 2009
2:06 pm

One Midtown Kitchen

Barky Obummer

October 31st, 2009
11:24 am

Lame like the real Obarky…nice restaurants are not on the socialist agenda…nobody deserves these kinds of lavish dining when others are hungry, right? So if you cannot bring a homeless family with you to dine and pay for their bill, you shouldnt be eating out…save your tips for the homeless guys peering in thru the windows…they need it more than the servers who actually earned it…just basic Obarky idiotology…

Renaissance Man

October 31st, 2009
10:13 am

Re Barky Obummer – Really? How lame are you???

JDM

October 31st, 2009
8:44 am

Are you serious? I have often wondered if you actually live in Atlanta. If you think these are the 6 best restaurants in the city AJC needs a new food critic.

Lance

October 31st, 2009
8:42 am

Oh as long as everyone is throwing out restaurants that should have been chosen… Meredith, what happened? No La Pietra Cucina? I mean every meal we’ve had there has been pitch perfect. The service has been solid to spectacular and the waitrons have never steered us wrong with their wine suggestions and come on, just slightly over 100 with a generous tip for two drinks, a salad, an appetizer, two entrees and two desserts? Where else in this city are you going to get that kind of a deal on such a great dinner?

FCM

October 31st, 2009
8:41 am

Well the photos of the food do not inspire me to go eat. The foie gras mousse looks glue with old grease on top. The chickenlivers are out of focus –probably to be artsy–and thus who can tell? The gingerbread looks good but that lemon curd looks nasty.

As to the restaurants. I have been to several that Ms. Ford-Goldman has reviewed favorably. I also trust the reports of friends who have done likewise. We have never found one with which we agree with Ms. F-G. I think our new rule might be if Ms. F-G likes it we will eat elsewhere.

Lance

October 31st, 2009
8:37 am

Whoops, I meant Glorious, not Gloria.

Lance

October 31st, 2009
8:36 am

I agree with Gloria on her first point… “Your best bet is usually in your own kitchen”. I buy a bottle of great wine and then plan a dinner around it or have an idea for something and bounce it off my friend Michelle, who just happens to work at a wine store, and flesh it out. This year, after planting our first garden, I’ve made a killer gazpacho with habanero, basil granita and creme fraiche, crab cakes with a pear, candied walnut, goat cheese “crudo”, amazing carolina pork tacos with chipolte crema and caramelized globe peaches with a truffled acacia honey and gorgonzola ice cream among man others. And generally everything was around 50 bucks or less for two people, depending on the wine. Yes it’s a splurge, but I’d rather spend 50 bucks and get great service in an intimate “chef’s kitchen” with no bumbling, no attitude and not have to worry about driving home tipsy.

I’m just glad when we do want to have a nice meal out that we have Haven and Valenza within walking distance. They’re always solid and the service is always solid for the most part, though there has been a little noticeable turnover lately.

Barky Obummer

October 31st, 2009
7:55 am

michelle and i want to remind all of you to plant your survival gardens so that you will have a better chance of fresh food in the coming months as things slow to a crawl and big AG fails us too…
we love to eat fresh foods from the garden, and michelle loves to shop the local farmers’ markets while tying up traffic all over the district of criminals…nobody said takin it over would be easy on you.

Glorious Reign

October 31st, 2009
12:01 am

Your best bet is usually in your own kitchen. Very few places are worth the money these days.Don’t waste your money at Serpas. That place is an over-priced dump. If you think Serpas is great, they must have paid you.