
When I picked up my daughter yesterday from school, she was sullen — more so than her preteen moodiness usually allows for.
“What’s up, boo?” I asked.
“I’m really hungry,” she semi-snapped.
“What did you eat for lunch, babe?”
“A piece of bread and a cookie,” came the sad reply. Further inquries led me to the cold, hard truth: the choice for lunch was hot dogs or fish sticks.
“Everyone knows not to eat the hot dogs, Mom. They bounce. And the fish makes everyone sick.”
Wait just a tic. Are we living in the United States of America? Shouldn’t a healthy, good-tasting school lunch be the right of each and every child in public schools across this country? Doesn’t it peeve you just a little that your child is likely eating food products instead of actual food in their school cafeterias?
Chef Ann Coooper thinks so. She spoke last night at Morningside Elementary School to a group of about 200 concerned parents, mostly women, who would like to see farm-to-school initiatives and healthy school lunches broguht to every cafeteria in every public school in America.
“This is the social issue of our time,” Cooper said. “It should be our moral imperative that no child is hungry in school and that every child gets a healthy meal.”
Cooper has partnered with Whole Foods to bring her “school lunch revolution” to cities like Berkeley, Cal., Boulder, Col., and Harlem, in New York City. The program is subsidized by the Kellogg Foundation as well.

“Implementing these programs costs money,” Cooper explained decisively, “and you’re going to have to learn that there is a lot of compromise involved.” She sees the implementation of better lunch programs as a community effort, and cites several initiatives that need to be realized for a plan to work on a grass roots level. Here’s her recipe for change, in a nut shell:
1. Finances: It costs a lot of money to implement a new system. The USDA reimbursement rate per child in public school systems is $2.70, and according Cooper, all but about 95 cents goes to things other than healthy foods. In other words, the government is currently spending less than a dollar per day to feed your child if she is in public school. Reauthorization this December of Section 122 of the Child Nutrition Act is asking the government for $50 million more in funding, which roughly adds up to about $1 more per child. Partnering with business is a good way to get much-needed funds (see below on how you can sign the petition).
2. Equipment and facilities: Have you ever visited your child’s lunch room? Do you know that the majority of lunch rooms in public schools don’t even contain the equipment needed to actually cook food? When all a cafeteria worker is doing is opening a box and warming up chicken nuggets, stoves, knives and other crucial kitchen equipment aren’t needed. Funds will be needed for facilities to be improved, or, as Cooper recommends, a central kitchen that services many schools may be the answer.
3. The food itself: Where do we get it ? How do we implement farm-to-table initiatives and sustainable practices in a system embedded in spending $45 million a year on tater tots and fish sticks? The paradigm has to shift to the community — local farmers and producers have to get involved, and school communities have to let them. Cooper said none of the three cities she’s actually implemented the school lunch revolution in got started without an airtight business model and a feasibility study.
4. Human resources and marketing: Once the plan is in motion, people are what keep it moving, and the push to make it work has to come from an overhaul of current media and marketing, which spends billions a year in advertising Doritos and Cheez Whiz to kids. “We had a national anti-smoking campaign, and a national seat belt campaign,” said Cooper. “Why can’t we have a national campaign for better school lunches?”
For those of you who are complacently scratching your heads thinking that we’ve all got better things to worry about — like health care reform, for instance — stop scratching for a moment. Redesigning the school lunch program is health care reform. At our current rate of childhood obesity, our children may be the first generation since WWII that dies of disease before we, their parents, do. According to Cooper, the CDC estimates that one-third of Caucasian and one-half of black and Hispanic children born in 2000 will develop diabetes. Prevention is health care reform.
“Don’t our children deserve a chance to be the best that they can be?” asked Cooper of a receptive crowd that gave several rounds of applause throughout her presentation. A chefs’ team from Whole Foods (that’s exec chef Butch Raphael and Sabrena Hayat in the above photo) created a meal, using Cooper’s guidelines, of a “reformed,” affordable school lunch, which the group happily enjoyed: roasted chicken with roasted broccoli and cauliflower, as well as sweet potatoes and a sweet apple crumble. No tater tots in sight. “In Boulder,” explained Cooper, “we don’t serve dessert — it’s just not an option I can afford. I’d rather fight for hormone-free milk and organic strawberries. Children get fresh fruit or nothing sweet at all.”
“Pick something — anything — that you can change,” said Cooper. “Agree to do one thing differently, then do it. That’s my mandate to all of you.”
You can get involved: sign the petition for reauthorization of the Child Nutrition Act or contact Georgia Organics to see how you can implement a metro-Atlanta farm-to-school program.

Left, chef Ann Cooper talks school lunch reform at Morningside Elementary.
45 comments Add your comment
Lonna
February 1st, 2010
12:38 pm
To comment on someone else’s comment that it is the parent’s responsiblilty…yes, I agree that if you have the means – it is the responsibility of the parent to pack a wholesome lunch. For me, that’s easy and I wouldn’t have it any other way.
My guess is that anyone commenting has the means to do what they wish. We’re talking about the people who don’t have computers, nor the access to a computer. There is another world out there – one where people truly struggle, not just to pay thier bills, but to feed thier children.
There are children who’s parents can hardly afford dinner, so they count on the meal tickets that are provided to them for their children to eat at school. In some cases, that is the only meal for their children.
I do believe that we need to educate children and the adults that feed them about nutrition, this is for everyone.
This is why I am very excited about the work that Chef Ann is doing and hope to do my part.
Caey
November 22nd, 2009
3:12 pm
Food Poisining at Boulder School District
If Boulder is cooking with raw chicken for thousands of students a day, this is what the newspaper headlines will say. Chef Ann Cooper wants school districts to use raw chicken and have the employees cook using the raw chicken. Most school districts use a precooked product and cook it. Tyson has a good precooked chicken product that schools can use. Ann Cooper does not promote using Tyson precooked, but wants to use RAW chicken. If an employee doesn’t cook the chicken to proper temperature, the children will be served RAW chicken and can get very sick.
Suzie
October 6th, 2009
10:00 pm
Does the chef who promotes health looks unhealthy, a bit fat. The chef should exercise. This woman has an eating disorder, eating organic foods will not decrease obesity. Pack a lunch and get on to bigger issues in this world.
Battling Childhood Hunger « Operation Frontline: Detroit
September 22nd, 2009
1:09 pm
[...] the USDA reimbursement rate per child in public school systems is $2.70, and groups like JPE are asking for an increase of $50 million in funding, equaling to about $1 [...]
the truth
September 18th, 2009
11:18 pm
I agree that food in the cafe should be healthy but the reality is that it is not. As parents, we should fight for better food for our children. I am in complete agreement that something should be done in the school system. However, this is not something that is going to change tomorrow. Our goal as parents is to teach these young people to make good choices. If the choice for healthy food is not available at school then you should make it available. Fight the fight but make the poor kid a good lunch. I refuse to let my children eat that crap. Our bodies are machines if you don’t put the correct fuel in ….. the don’t run properly. Make your daughter a lunch….better yet teach her how. My children are 10 and 12 they can make their own lunches and they do.