It’s summertime, and the livin’ is easy — at least for those of us who love the vegetables and fruits that come with its bounty. Georgia peaches are in stores now, and some tomatoes are showing up at local farm stands. Corn is here, too. Okra can’t be far away … Try these spots on for vegetables that smack of summer.
Rumi’s Kitchen ***
6152 Roswell Road, Atlanta, 404-477-2100
The wheaty aroma of Rumi’s house-made flatbread permeates the foyer, the air on the patio and the restaurant’s small, attentively decorated dining area. Served in modern spiral baskets, it is the center of attention at each table, and wonderfully soft and pliable. Why? It’s the perfect mate to smear through kashk badenjoon, an eggplant dish stewed with tomatoes and onions and topped with a tart cream of whey, caramelized onions and dried mint. This is the vegetable version of crack, and once you get started, you won’t stop.
Abattoir not rated
1170 Howell Mill Road, Atlanta. 404-892-3335, www.starprovisions.com
Heralded chefs Anne Quatrano and Clifford Harrison have added to their stable of restaurants that includes Bacchanalia and Floataway Cafe with this casual spot that isn’t so “meat centric” after all. Sure, the menu definitely operates around four-legged things, with an emphasis on the full use of animal products, including goodies such as lamb liver fritters and tripe stew. But hold on a minute: The veggies here could make a meal, especially the summer crisp salad crowned with a poached farm egg and crispy bacon. Or a fabulously simple heirloom tomato sliced and served with, yes … salt and pepper. Nothing short of genius.
Waterhaven not rated
75 5th St., Atlanta, 404-214-6740
Don’t be so shy: the Globe’s former space hasn’t changed as much as was first touted, so don’t be afraid to venture in, especially if it’s to try a plate of veggies full of Italian greens done up Southern or sweet, slightly salty seasoned (I like ‘em that way) lady peas. Heck, you might even find a stuffed, lightly fried squash blossom lurking under a stack of sliced-and-grilled eggplant. New owner Joe McCarthy has stated that he’s committed to using local, sustainable ingredients in the kitchen and it’s starting to show.
4th & Swift ****
621 North Ave. N.E., Atlanta, 678-904-0160
Nothing about chef Jay Swift’s food is affected. In fact, he may be one of the subtlest chefs in the city. At this lovely restaurant inside a sweeping loft of the old Southern Dairies building, everything is fresh, simply prepared and arrives happily at the table from a young staff eager to please. His summery corn soup will put you in your happy place: Cream and corn collide in a bowl of velvety wonder, crowned with a bit of crabmeat. It tastes like a bowl of summer, minus the mosquito bites.
Watershed ****
406 W. Ponce de Leon Ave., Decatur. 404-378-4900, www.watershedrestaurant.com
Executive chef Scott Peacock’s upscale Southern classics conjure after-church-on-Sunday food, the kind we sat around the table and said grace over. The vegetable plate is plenty reason to say thanks: Heaps of fried okra, summer squash, green beans, simple corn off-the-cob, field peas (pictured) and sliced tomatoes. Oh, and luscious spoon bread, inspired by Edna Lewis.
23 comments Add your comment
JDJ
July 13th, 2009
5:04 pm
The Colonnade on Cheshire Bridge — been going there for about 50 years now and the veggies keep us coming back. (Not to mention the fried chicken)
Gville Resident
July 13th, 2009
4:44 pm
It was the Georgianna Restraunt in Gainesville back in the day. Everything was homemade and it was gooooood!
Nothing compares.
candy
July 13th, 2009
4:36 pm
John Boy’s should be closed down!!.. Anyone seeking veggies should seek elsewhere. My mother’s and grandmother’s kitchens service up the best veggie dishes. I know you all wanted to know of a place where the masses could go but honestly I can’t think of one.