Dropped into 4th & Swift this past Sunday night with my husband and parents — we had just returned from vacation and thought chef-owner Jay Swift’s new summer menu might be just the thing to thank my ‘rents for taking care of our pets while we were away.

This restaurant has never disappointed me, no matter what I order, from hearty pork loin with pepped up pork and beans to a Southern-style strawberry shortcake so good even my mother and I admitted that it was better than our own — and my mother makes excellent strawberry shortcake. There are dishes I like better than others, but I’m never disappointed to try anything on the menu, especially in the summertime.

And my tastebuds must know the seasons as well as my calendar, because I always seem to show up at this comely spot, inside the old Southern Dairies, when Swift’s corn soup — a puree of corn rife with freshness and studded with whole kernels and lump crab meat — is on the menu. It tastes like summer-y, buttery corn on the cob, but without all the work. With a glass of rose, the meal was a winner all around the table, including my dad’s oysters, which he wouldn’t share.