Pappadelle al pepe nero with tartufo al Parmigiano- cream sauce with black truffles, shaved Parmigano-Reggano and fried egg. (BECKY STEIN)

In an era where so many American brands are popping up in every corner of the globe, it can be easy for some of us to forget that globalization is a two-way street. La Tagliatella, a northern Italian franchise with over 130 locations in Europe, chose Atlanta as their entry point into the US market, opening two locations here in the last few months.

Head over to MyAJC.com to see how the Emory Point location stacks up.

Hana Japanese Restaurant, 147 Reinhardt College Parkway, scored a 60/U on its recent routine inspection, marking a second failing score in less than a year.

The health inspector said management did not have adequate control over food safety practices of the staff and needed re-training in those duties.

For example, employees were not following proper food safety practices. An employee working with food, and one in charge of cleaning dishes, were not washing their hands at the required times, the inspector said.

Several employee beverages and open beverage containers were in the food prep area and other restricted areas. The employee hand sinks had no soap or paper towels.

Points were also taken off for other code violations that involved food. Raw eggs were stored over raw, ready-to-eat fish for sushi. A container of sushi rice was away from temperature …

courtesy www.themillkitchenandbar.com

Each day seems to bring new details in the story of The Mill Kitchen & Bar’s kitchen affairs. It all started when I reviewed the restaurant and learned that chef Marc Taft was no longer running the kitchen. Earlier this week I posted an interview with the restaurant’s new chef, Benjamin Castro.

Following media coverage of the chef transition, the following was posted on Facebook by Chicken & the Egg, Taft’s restaurant:

Because I am being asked by so many of you and I have received so many calls about recent press, I want to set the record straight for all of you that are loyal followers of Chicken and the Egg and allow me to have such a great job feeding you.

I am no longer associated with The Mill Kitchen and Bar. I chose to leave because the partners and I had philosophical differences about how to run a restaurant, treat our employees and be true to who we say we are. A from scratch kitchen featuring local, sustainable food can …

The bourbon trail is a popular destination in the tasting tents. credit: AFWF/Raftermen

A crowd of about 9,000 people is expected in Midtown next week for the third annual Atlanta Food & Wine Festival. Included will be top culinary talent hailing from Southern locales between Texas and the District of Columbia.

The festival, co-founded by Dominique Love and Elizabeth Feichter, gathers chefs, mixologists, artisans, industry experts and enthusiasts to experience the food and beverage traditions of the South. Love said she hopes to put the national spotlight on Southern cuisine and establish Atlanta as the gateway.

The four-day event (May 30-June 2) will include a variety of learning experiences, tasting tents and special events. While this culinary journey travels mainly through the American South, the festival also features the flavors of Southern regions around the globe, such as Southern Europe, South Africa, South America and the Southern Hemisphere as well as Mexico, Puerto …

“Eat Drink Delta: A Hungry Traveler’s Journey through the Soul of the South” ($24.95, University of Georgia Press) author Susan Puckett will explain all that and more tonight at the Georgia Center for the Book in a talk that’s part of Decatur Arts Festival week.

Puckett, a native of Jackson, Mississippi and a graduate of the University of Mississippi, lives in Decatur and was the Food editor at the Atlanta Journal-Constitution for 18 years. She’s written for national food and culture magazines and is an author of six previous books, including “A Cook’s Tour of Mississippi.”

Adding to the evening’s festivities, AJC chief dining critic, John Kessler, will be joining Puckett on stage for a conversation about the book and the food of the Mississippi Delta.

Here’s what Puckett posted about all that on her Facebook page: “If watching Kessler trip me up with questions like how …

At the school for sommeliers

A few weeks ago I had the opportunity to sit in for the first leg of the four-part education and examination sessions organized by the Court of Master Sommeliers — a certifying organization that promotes excellence in restaurant and hotel beverage service.

It was a fun experience that I recounted in detail in this article.

After two solid days of reviewing the world winemaking regions and the coarser points of wine service (along with a bit of information about beer, sake and spirits), we took a multiple choice test, and those that passed are invited to go the second, certifying level. The second level involves the process of deductive blind tasting — trying to determine the age, varietal and provenance of the wine based on sight, smell and taste.

I made a sample quiz based on study questions offered by the Guild of Sommeliers. If you like the grape, take a shot at it. Maybe it’s all the encouragement you need to go for your own certification.

- …

[UPDATE] THIS DINNER HAS BEEN CANCELLED DUE TO TRAVEL COMPLICATIONS.

On Thursday, Empire State South and chef Ryan Smith will host chef Brandon Baltzley, author of the new culinary memoir “Nine Lives: A Chef’s Journey from Chaos to Control.”

Baltzley’s story begins at age nine, when he fell in love with cooking at the Whistle Stop Cafe, a kitchen in the back of a gay bar in Jacksonville, Florida, where his single mom made soup and sandwiches.

From there, he paid his dues job-hopping through kitchens high and low, while playing drums in punk and heavy metal bands and battling multiple addictions — finally rising to chef positions in high profile fine dining restaurants in New York and Chicago.

Baltzley’s dark, funny and passionate account of food, rock, drugs and sex has drawn comparisons to Anthony Bourdain’s “Kitchen Confidential” and Gabrielle Hamilton’s “Blood, Bones and Butter.”

But Baltzley, who is still under 30 and clearly something of a …

Ok, obviously I’m kidding. Moldy ice machines are gross.

When I’m cooking, there are really only two situations in which I don gloves – cutting super-hot peppers or if I’m handling a single large piece of meat for an extended period of time, like trimming and cleaning a pig. Other than that, if I’m sitting at an open kitchen and I can see the folks preparing my food, I’d rather see freshly washed bare hands over latex gloves any day of the week.

Why? Because, when you have a layer between your skin and the food, it is very easy to touch something and not realize that you have just contaminated the gloves, then just …

A DeKalb County health inspector noted separate incidents of employees talking on a cell phone, adjusting clothing and preparing tandoori chicken, and none of them washed their hands before putting on clean gloves.

In addition, the hand sink wasn’t being kept clean and maintained, the inspector said. Raw meat pieces were on the faucet handles. The restaurant scored a 65/U.

A manager at Cafe Bombay said a lot of points were taken off for minor details, but other than that there were no major problems during the routine inspection.

Points were also deducted because some food items were stored uncovered and subject to contamination. Sliced tomatoes and tandoori chicken were uncovered in a cooler, and meatballs, a dessert and samosa were all uncovered in the freezer.

Other prepared foods were not …

Chef Benjamin Castro, credit: Pavel Kuznetsov of VK Photography

I recently reviewed The Mill Kitchen & Bar in Roswell. During the course of the review process, I learned that chef Marc Taft, who opened the restaurant, no longer has any affiliation with it. Owner Scott McCray said they were “holding over” a chef de cuisine of Taft’s until a new chef was found.

A new chef has been found. Benjamin Castro stepped into the position last week. This Athens native and CIA-trained chef has worked with Hector Santiago at Pura Vida and Doug Turbush at Bluepointe. He’s also spent time at Bistro VG and comes most recently from the very newly opened NOCA. Castro explained he “didn’t see eye to eye” with the owner at NOCA.

Castro says he immediately identified the consistency issues at The Mill and is working to get the kitchen refocused and to correct “bad habits.” He will spend the next few weeks retraining the staff and formalizing systems to ensure consistency.

Once …

While in town last week to promote his show “Road Trip with G. Garvin,”  the celeb chef and Atlanta native visited several area spots on a quest to find the best Southern food.

Chef Garvin also sat down in The Atlanta Journal-Constitution studio to discuss restaurants,  his favorite food cities, cooking and life.

Garvin gave shout outs to Kyma and Tomo Japanese Restaurant, which both made our Atlanta 50 Spring Dining Guide.

“Road Trip” airs Sundays at 9 p.m. on Cooking Channel.

– Jamila Robinson/ Video by Ryon Horne (AJC)

Seven Hens, the battered-and-fried, schnitzel-style chicken concept in North Decatur Plaza, has a new craft beer-pairing program created in a collaboration between owner Michael Gurevich and Atlanta-based beer blogger, Dennis Malcolm Byron, AKA Ale Sharpton.

Find Georgia beers from Red Hare, Terrapin and Wild Heaven, paired with international schnitzel flavors of “The Italian,” “The Chinese” and “The American.”

Have you tried any of the Hens beer and chicken pairings, yet? What did you think?

2140 North Decatur Road, Decatur, 404-633-3000, www.7hens.com

— Bob Townsend, for the AJC Food and More blog.

For many, myself included, Memorial Day acts as the opening bell for months of early Saturdays filled with slow roasting meat and hickory smoke, and smokers and Big Green Eggs across the city will get their official dust-off of 2013. Of course, at my house, The Egg is a year-round fixture, but this is the beginning of the high-season.

Me? I’m trying to justify to my wife that I need a special “big smoker” since she won’t let me build a permanent in-ground brick pit in the back yard. Because sometimes, especially if we are entertaining a large enough group, even a BGE won’t cut it. I mean, how else am I supposed to smoke another whole hog next weekend if she thinks the cinder-block pit I used last time was too much of an eye-sore? On a regular ole’ smoker?

Please…. I think I …

Points were also deducted when an employee was seen handling barbecue ribs with bare hands instead of wearing gloves or using utensils.

The restaurant at 2387 Fairburn Road was given a 66/U, down from previous scores of 91/A and 99/A.

An employee at Abdullah’s said Monday the restaurant was expecting a follow-up inspection later that day. All the problems had been taken care of and they anticipated getting the score back to an A, he said.

Among other code violations during the routine inspection, cooked chicken wings and rice were out of temperature range. The food had cooled down too much after being left on the kitchen prep table away from temperature controls.

Points were taken off because an …

King + Duke

The concept showcases primal wood-fired cooking on a 24-foot open hearth filled with hot coals. The menu from executive chef Joe Schafer features grilled and roasted meat, fish and fowl, with entrees such as a kilo of bone-in ribeye for two.

Tumble to the menu here: kinganddukeatl.com

3060 Peachtree Road NW, 404-477-3500.

— By Bob Townsend, AJC Food and More blog.

Ecco in Concourse F (photos by Becky Stein)

The next stop is Concourse E, Concourse E as in ECHO.

Keep riding, because the stop after that is Concourse F, Concourse F as in ECCO.

The reproduction of Ecco, Midtown’s Mediterranean restaurant and wine bar, in the Maynard Jackson International Terminal gives travelers another higher-end option when they find themselves with time to kill. Cheeses, cured meats and goat cheese fritters with a glass of great wine to knock back: ain’t nothing wrong with that. If you want a full-meal entree, I can attest to this grilled pork chop with green farro, fava beans and orange.

Generally, though, I’m of two minds about eating in the airport — those two minds being the ones that belong to my id and superego. The id goes for a Popeye’s chicken biscuit or a clamshell filled to bursting with totally ratchet Chinese food. The superego favors salads with strips of wan chicken breast and pouches of fat-free dressing. I’m not sure I do myself any …

Items like the trout with crispy skin appear on the ever-changing menu. (photo by Becky Stein)

We all know it for the bakery, but Joli Kobe has become more than just a place to feed your sweet tooth.

In February, the restaurant rebranded as Joli Kobe Kitchen and moved closer to a fine dining format complete with a thoughtful sake and wine list. It brought in chef Mihoko Obunai, a classically French-trained Japanese chef. Obunai’s ever-changing menu is seasonally focused and reflects her training as a certified macrobiotic chef.

Read the full review here.

–by Jenny Turknett, Food and More blog

Lucero Martinez-Obregon and Richard Sandoval

Richard Sandoval, chef-owner of Richard Sandoval Restaurants, has added Zocalo in Midtown Atlanta to his restaurant group’s roster of over 30 locations.

On May 4, Zocalo debuted new upscale Mexican food and beverage menus, plus new decor and tableware.

Executive chef Lucero Martinez-Obregon will continue to head the kitchen, a role she’s filled since her family opened Zocalo in 1995. Since 2009, Martinez-Obregon also has been chef de cuisine at Sandoval’s Pampano in New York City.

Last week, Sandoval was in town for a few days, and joined Martinez-Obregon for lunch at Zocalo.

Over queso fundido, cochinita pibil with habanero salsa, and caramel flan with pineapple-strawberry pico, they discussed their partnership and plans for the restaurant.

“Lucero had been working for me for almost four years and I never knew about this place,” Sandoval said. “She came as a sous chef and I really loved her work. We talked about …

Gluten Free Cutie, Pure Knead and Uncle Maddio’s represented the Atlanta market. Chef Tracey Bloom, formerly of Ray’s on the Creek, was also on hand to promote her newest venture, Free Cuisine, for which she develops gluten- and allergy-free recipes.

I also discovered another local product with which I was unfamiliar: Sugar & Spice Market flour, a cup-for-cup all purpose flour substitute. Previously I’ve used Cup 4 Cup, a similar product developed at the French Laundry.

While I’ve had great results using Cup 4 Cup, I was happy to support the locally produced Sugar & Spice Market brand. I decided to test it in a quick bread, which is the only area where I feel Cup 4 Cup doesn’t prove a satisfying substitute.

I …

Unfortunately, my post seems to have disappeared faster than the sliders themselves, so I’ll try again with a second somewhat abbreviated post.

As I mentioned earlier (grrr), I had the terrific oysters sliders that are a signature dish at The Dutch in New York in mind as I started tinkering.

First up, a reimagined tartare sauce: I whisked together about 3/4 of a cup of mayonnaise (this Yankee likes Hellmann’s), a spoonful of whole grain mustard, lemon zest and juice, chopped fresh tarragon, chopped fresh chives, cracked black pepper and some finely diced kosher dill pickle, which really sets it off. I’m not a fan of sweet pickle relish.

I dredged the oysters in flour, egg wash and panko …

Courtesy of EBay

Growing up as the son of a Coca-Cola employee in Atlanta, I’ve heard the lore of the super-secret formula for Coke far more than most. The story of the original recipe for Coke was shrouded in mystery, and took on many forms; my favorite being that the only two living executives who know the formula are not allowed to fly on the same plane together, lest a crash result in the loss of everyone’s favorite soft drink forever.

Of course, there is an overwhelming amount of calculated marketing that has gone into those stories, and I’m sure the reality is much more mundane. But that has not stopped scores of opportunists from trying to expose the secret formula, including the ominous “7X” flavoring. The most recent and notable of these was just 2 years ago, when NPR’s This American Life dug up what they believed to be the recipe and posted it online, crashing their website with the influx of views. NPR’s source? A 1979 article from The Atlanta Journal …

It’s picnic weather. As temperatures creep up towards the low 80’s with brilliant sun and gentle breezes, we’re all itching to get outside.

This weekend you can partake in a Southern basket-style picnic complete with fried chicken prepared by chefs Anne Quatrano and Todd Immel (Floataway Cafe). The meal will include a selection of beer and wine to accompany the picnic fare.

The event, which takes place at the Nickel Bottom Community Garden just behind the Floataway community, will double as an adult field day with games like bocce ball, croquet and badminton. During the afternoon, guests will also enjoy tours and an exclusive look at the garden’s transformation, live music and a gift raffle with prizes from The Cook’s Warehouse, Farmer D. Organics and more.

Proceeds from this event, called BUDS, benefit the Nickel Bottom Community Garden. Funds will be used to build raised garden beds, fencing and an outdoor entertainment space.

1-3 p.m. Sunday, May 19. Nickel …

Fuyuhiko and Lisa Matsuoka Ito

Umi, the new Japanese restaurant from Fuyuhiko Ito, former executive chef at MF Sushi, is taking reservations for its soft opening at Two Buckhead Plaza on May 20.

Ito’s culinary background in both traditional Japanese and classic French restaurants will will be featured in an array of starters, soups, salads, sashimi, nigiri and specialty rolls.

Look for hot items such as baked lobster tempura, sautéed foie gras and black cod miso and a selection of “aburi” or slightly cooked sushi-grade fish, such as yellowtail, flounder, scallops and sea urchin.

At lunch, Ito will offer the traditional Bento Box featuring the chef’s daily meat, seafood, vegetable and rice creations served with Miso soup and house salad.

Ito’s wife, pastry chef Lisa Matsuoka Ito, will offer equally creative desserts, including her signature green tea souffle.

Look for a diverse beverage program with Japanese whiskey and craft cocktails.

Call 404-841-0040 for …

Also, the manager in charge of El Granero Taqueria, 1092 Jonesboro Road, still wasn’t knowledgeable about reportable health illnesses and what to do if employees came to work with symptoms, the inspector said. It was the third time the restaurant had been cited for this health safety violation.

El Granero Taqueria was given a failing score of 41/U.

During the inspection, beans and cheese were out of temperature on the buffet and were thrown away. Also, chili rellenos, cheese dip and salsa verde were all discarded because they either were not properly date marked or were past the expiration date.

Points were taken off because an employee came in from outside and began handling clean equipment without first washing hands. One employee hand sink was blocked off by a large oven, and another one was being used to get water …

A major departure from the fine dining aura at Gillespie’s former restaurant, Woodfire Grill, Gunshow mixes a choose-it-yourself dining style with a lively wide-open atmosphere that pushes the boundaries of restaurant design.

Reservations required May 8-11: 404-380-1886. 924 Garrett Street, SE, Suite C, www.gunshowatl.com.

See more on the Gunshow design here: www.ajc.com/news/lifestyles/radical-design-for-top-chefs-restaurant-unlike-any/nWh6f/

— Bob Townsend, AJC Food and More blog.