John Kessler has been a writer at the Atlanta Journal-Constitution since 1997. For the first seven years he worked as the paper’s dining critic — until the day he got an overwhelming urge to put his fork in the dishwasher and press “sanitize.” He then began writing a column for the weekly Food & Drink section, which covered a broad range of topics in cooking, food shopping, dining and drinking around Atlanta. Currently he writes the Sunday “Restaurant Stories” column as well as this blog and food feature and news stories. Kessler graduated from Williams College in Massachusetts with a degree in the History of Ideas as well as L’Academie de Cuisine culinary school near Washington, D.C. Before he learned how to hold down a job, he taught English in the Kansai region of Japan and cooked in restaurants in Washington and Denver. He has never skydived but did once fall into a Chinese sewer. He lives in Decatur with his wife, three daughters and far too many housepets.
He really likes sushi, eggplant, tangerines, yogurt, crusty bread, pâté and barbecuing unruly hunks of meat on his Big Green Egg.
He doesn’t much care for blood sausage, macaroni salad, canned corn, cheesecake, soft dinner rolls, meatloaf or decorative baking projects that involve blue icing.
30 comments Add your comment
carolyn
January 31st, 2009
6:05 pm
i would like to send Johnan incredible new chutney that has been on the market for only 5 months.
What is the appropiate address?
Thank you
Carolyn Johnson
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Danny Kim
February 5th, 2009
9:35 pm
Have you heard of a new restaurant at Johns Creek? It’s a pizza restaurant but with a new spin… It’s great tasting but healthy… organic sauce and crust, low fat cheese, reduce fat pepperoni and msg free sausage. It’s trying to take pizza to a new frontier…
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Andy Brown
March 2nd, 2009
4:09 pm
John,
We enjoyed your piece on our special ‘Wild Red’ watercress variety. We have actually submitted a patent application for this unique variety.
We are B&W Quality Growers, based in Florida, and our family has been growing watercress since 1870.
If you ever need any watercress, or our famous ‘wild roquette’ baby arugula, please contact me and we’ll overnight you whatever you need.
We also invite you to visit our website at http://www.watercress.com for a wealth of information about watercress nutrition and its’ cancer fighting properties.
We pride ourselves on our sustainable farming pracices that include reducing chemical use by over 50% in the past 20 years. In addition, we are GlobalGap certified, quality for the world renown ‘Marks & Spencer’ Field-to-Fork food safety program, and are Primus Food Safety audited (with Superior ratings). We have grown to become the world’s largest watercress company by always being the best at what we do.
We thank you again for the article on Mother Nature’s version of the multi-vitamin…Wonderful Watercress.
Live Longer…Eat More Watercress
Warmest Regards,
Andy Brown
B&W Quality Growers, Inc.
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Chef Jessica
April 4th, 2009
8:54 am
John,
we would like for you to be our guest during one of our wonderful cooking classes.
Please contact me so we can chat
Chef Jessica Ray
Cooking School Director
The Viking Store
404 745 9065
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Jim Barco
May 4th, 2009
11:45 am
John, I’m not sure who at the AJC I should share this with, but since I always read your Column, I thought I’d start with a “green egg person.” Brenau University and its many friends and volunteers, invite talented cookers and fans of Earth shattering barbeque and bluegrass music to a Memphis Barbecue Network sanctioned contest May 28-30. Professional Cook teams will begin arriving on the 28th. The 29th finds public activities of a cooking school by Bill Morris, aka: Billy Bob Billy, “Doctor Que” of Holy Smokers Too, while all cooking crews kick their tires and light their fires. The 30th has top flight regional Bluegrass music, and to die for BBQ competition and refreshments. Upscale vendors will also be displaying their goods on Saturday for all your summer cookout needs, from quality sauces and rubs, to cookbooks and smokers costing more than your first car. Gate admission is $5 and all monies raised from corporate sponsors and associated revenue streams go to benefit the local student scholarship fund. The public gate on Saturday opens at 10 a.m. John, obviously, we would love to host you and/or another lover of all things barbecue. cell: 770-654-3600
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s.bass
May 13th, 2009
2:34 pm
Are you related to John Kessler the newspaperman from Miami?
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Jeff
May 24th, 2009
8:31 pm
Shoya is open, and it’s goooooooooooood.
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2 Dog
June 23rd, 2009
1:32 pm
John:
We are a local restaurant located at the foothills of the North Georgia Mountains. We have been a staple of the Gainesville community for 12 years. Our restaurant sits in the historic downtown area. Chef Tim Roberts creates all sauces, breads & sausages in house along with using organic veggies from a local farm in Lula. Chef Roberts dubs his food “Rustic European Soul Food”. We strive for a fresh different choice that isn’t too pricy or too scary for our locals.
The lunch menu boast sandwiches, salads & quesadillas which come with your choice of a side. Our sides change daily according to the fresh produce we receive. Each day is a surprise for our customers.
The dinner specials change monthly along with the evening’s lasagna & sides. We do have staples on the menu such as the House Specialty, BBQ Shrimp & Grits, the Skirt Steak & a fabulous “Build Your Own” menu where our diners may pick their base, sauce & fresh toppings.
We also strive to keep a wonderful seasonal beer & wine list! Our patio is a great place to enjoy the summer breeze with any of our selections. Starting this July we will host acoustic music on the patio for an evening of good food, good bread & good music!
We are just a hop, skip & a jump from the downtown Atlanta area & would like to have you join us for lunch or dinner! We understand that your schedule is busy but if you head our way we are sure to provide a dining experience & dishes that are sure to feed your soul!
Thank you for your time & we will look forward to seeing you soon!
2 Dog
317 Spring Street SE
Gainesville, GA 30501
http://www.2DogRestaurant.com
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Tricia Martin
July 5th, 2009
10:34 pm
As a lover of great food we would like you to enjoy the fare of Chef R. L. Holmes who trained under Chef Paul at K- Pauls for 18 years. We were initially set to be Tibbs at the corner of Pharr and Grandview with Paul and AFC but that fell through and we struck out on our own.We are now @1113 Floyd St. in Covington Ga. So if you are looking for the best gumbo, greens,ettouffee,jambalaya, or ribs we promise it will be worth the trip.
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Mary Cole
July 11th, 2009
9:58 pm
now that you have tried the tomato sandwich you must try a juicy slice of matter in a biscuit. better than cake yum
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paddy sue
August 10th, 2009
2:51 am
In Seattle, you, John Kessler, host a rip-roarin’ down-right is-it-wrong-to-feel-this-good? blues show on the local jazz station, 88.5, KPLU.
And every time I hear the here John Kessler say “This is John Kessler” I think ‘what? my ole food friend from Atlanta and the AJC is here eating clams or salmon or sushi or something not deep-fried and served with a side of grits and lard? And he hasn’t invited me to tag along? But then, I see the ice cream cone of Mt. Rainier in the distance and come to my (non) senses.
Miss you, John K., and glad you’re still newspapering about food, even if it’s a weird wired world now.
Love, from Paddy Sue in Seattle where it really was 103 degrees last week, making my garden peppers New Mexico big, tasty and ready for roasting…remember our green chile quest in Hotlanna?
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John Kessler
August 12th, 2009
12:08 pm
Yo, Paddy! Miss you.
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Bill
August 22nd, 2009
8:37 am
John:
Crusty rolls aren’t all they’re cracked up to be – on a sandwhich that is. I brought baldinos Giant Jersey Subs down south in 1975 and used a steam-injected oven that gave our rolls a nice crusty finish – we almost went out of business. After months of trying to figure out why we couldn’t build our business, one of our regular customers confided that even though we have the best subs they have ever tasted, the rolls are always stale. They explained that they would actually have to take our subs home and ’slightly nuke’ them to soften the crust; the best part the feedback was when I was told that many of thier friends wouldn’t come back because of our “stale rolls”. The next day we started offering our rolls with or without crust and at the end of the day, 90% of the rolls we baked with crust were left. It didn’t take long before we stopped using the steam injection altogether and to this day, by far, the most favorable comment we receieve is that our subs have the best rolls.
Our Doraville store at 5697 Buford Hwy (1/4 mi outside 285) has one of the original ovens with steam injection. In 1991 when we opened in the Atlanta market, I thought it was time to once again, roll-out the crust; same deal, the overwhelming majority preferred no crust. Stop by our store for lunch and you will see that the people have spoken; and if you happen to try one of our 32 subs, don’t ping us on the roll – it was my customer’s way or the highway. (Our whole wheat rolls naturally have a slight crust.)
All the best,
Bill Baer, Founder
http://www.baldinos.us
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Bill
August 22nd, 2009
8:45 am
s-a-n-d-w-i-c-h
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ARBARCH
September 2nd, 2009
12:34 pm
I’m looking for schools who teach the craft of making artisinal foods, such as cheeses, charcuterie and pickles. Any ideas of suggestions?
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pama
September 20th, 2009
3:25 pm
john, thanks for your “comfort” story this sunday morning. it brought on the water works. we feel your pain being empty nesters this fall. nobody told us it would be this hard.
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auntie gee
September 29th, 2009
2:34 pm
Enter your comments here Hey John!
Did you know September 29 is National Coffee Day?!! Who knew?
Wonder where the free coffee is around town?!! Don’t know if you are a coffee drinker–but I never thought I would see the day they would honor a most important beverage for the non-morning person.
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jane baer
October 14th, 2009
9:23 pm
John,
I was a big fan of yours when you were in Denver and really miss your writing. Now I live in Denver and Park City Ut…and will make sure I have a link to your Atlanta column. Your writing is so refreshing and since I get to Atlanta occassionally I’ll make sure I have a list of your restaurant reviews before heading there next time. If you are ever in Park City (Sundance Film Festival or skiing) just ping me…would love to show you the town and enjoy some phenomenal wine as a paymnet for all of the enjoyment you gave my family when you were in Denver.
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Harris
October 16th, 2009
6:51 pm
I’d lie to recommend a restaurant for you to try and write up. It is called 61 Main, located at 61 Main Street, Jasper, GA. It is a small restaurant that specializes in “farm to table” foods. It has been there for only a year and it is well worth the trip.
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top chef fanatic:
October 20th, 2009
3:23 pm
ahhh mr. kessler i see that you have the strong massachusetts roots, I think thats why i have warmed up to your writing beyong the top chef circle! wicked pissah john and someday i hope to meet you and tear it up , Brickstore mabye? I know you wont get the fish and chips …but i sure as hell will! they rock that with a pretzel and mustard are enuff to take the edge off for this yankee. cant wait till restraunt wars tommorow nite and your colum to follow.
take care and have a blessed day:)
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Tracy
October 21st, 2009
8:18 am
Hi John! We would love for you to visit Char 88 Steakhouse and Piano Bar in Historic Buford next time you are in the area!
Take care!
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John
November 3rd, 2009
10:18 am
You might want to check out Restaurant Eugene. Our experience was less than wonderful. A copy of the email sent to Linton Hopkins, Executive chef, as well as his response is as follows:
Dear Sir:
The excitement of our much anticipated visit to your establishment was somewhat diminished because of a few items served to us during our meal.
The consomme tasted to us like a salty, oily, impalatable brew.
The Autumn vegetable plate was also a bit salty, although the vegetables were tasty.
The bread appeared to be less than fresh, was dry, and difficult to chew, especially the fingered twists, saved only by the creamy butter, which greatly improved the taste.
Although the lamb portion got lost on the plate, it was tender, moist, and well flavored. We paired it with what appeared to be roasted potatoes from my wife’s vegetable plate, adding more substance to the entree.
On a more positive note, the crab cake and sweet potatoe creme brulee were absolutely divine.
We were also pleased with the attentive wait staff.
We hope to visit Restaurant Eugene again in the near future, and hope the review above be interpreted in a positive manner, and not be construed as anything but helpful advice.
Best regards,
John & Brenda Goedde
Thank you very much, and I appreciate the response. I would however, also like to mention that tiny 3 foot round table we were seated at was totally inappropriate, especially since window tables and booths were both available. You need to lose that one, or set a coffee pot or water pitcher there instead, since it’s so small.
I am also a bit disappointed at the lack of or offer for any compensation. Paying $28.00 for a few slices of lamb on a bed of veggies, with no sides, or any other compliment is also in my opinion totally inappropriate, not to mention the problems with the rest of the meal.
As far as a return visit, that won’t be happening. I think it’s time to give John Kessler a call for a second opinion, and maybe he can convince us giving Restaurant Eugene a second chance might be worth a try. Your response certainly didn’t do it.
Regards,
John
——-Original Message——-
From: Linton Hopkins
Date: 11/3/2009 9:28:44 AM
To: John Goedde
Subject: Re: Dinner 10- 31 – 2009
Dear John,
Your comments were taken in the manner they were given, thoughtfully
and respectfully. We appreciate your feedback and in our effort to
continually improve we look forward to your return.
Sincerely,
Linton Hopkins
Hope I wasn’t too out of line with my assesment, but that is my opinion, and I hope you have better luck if you decide to give Restaurant Eugene an evaluatiion. Thanks. John
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John
November 3rd, 2009
11:23 am
I want you to know Linton Hopkins came through for me, and offered a return invitation with compensation. I couldn’t be more thrilled and feel somewhat ashamed for allowing my attitude and emotions to get the best of me, and sincerely hope he accepts my apology. I hope you do in fact get the chance to pay Restaurant Eugene a visit. I feel very certain you won’t be dissapointed.
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Ted Alberta
November 9th, 2009
12:41 pm
Dick Connlyn(?) of the famous Gallagers Steak House on 52nd St W. once said” Your only as good as the last steak you just served!”
After 25 years in the business I can say my most enjoyable moment was teaching 30 students to make mayonaise, from scratch, whileat B.O.C.E.S tech school as a guest instructor !!! T.A.
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Fred
November 10th, 2009
1:02 pm
Wow, i don’t have a restaurant to hawk, can i still make a post lol? Just dropped in to read your BIO. Glad to see you were in Japan. I recently acquired a taste for sushi. I thought it was basically all the same until I accompanied my wife on a business trip to San Fran. At a little hole in the wall looking place across from the Hotel Niko I found out that all sushi was NOT created equal. Have you done a sushi review that I have not seen? I saw a Japaneese food review in your 30 palces in 30 days series that I am about to read, but I mean a review dedicated ONLY to sushi places in Atlanta. If you haven’t done one could you please/ After reading your Mary Mac review i KNOW you won’t be swayed by iconic status of a place lol.
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Rachel
November 14th, 2009
1:04 pm
You must of never had a good meatloaf. Because I make delicious meatloaf. the secret is my sauce.
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Mom’s Cooking « The Brookhaven Bear Report
November 15th, 2009
5:48 pm
[...] 15, 2009 by Riley Local food writer, John Kessler, recently wrote about Mary Mac’s Tea Room. Overall, he was not favorably inclined about [...]
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Janet W.
November 15th, 2009
9:23 pm
John, I would like to add a comment on Mary Mac’s. When Margaret Lupo was alive and ran the restaurant, it was wonderful. She had Southern cooks with many years of cooking in her kitchen. However, she is since gone and the restaurant has gone downhill ever since. I suggest you locate The Mary Mac’s Cookbook by her(which is my favorite cookbook and I still cook out of) to get a true sense of the REAL Mary Mac’s.
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Carrie Neal Walden
November 20th, 2009
1:21 am
Hi John,
I am a fan of quite some time, and I’m also “guest blogging” for Lindsey Zuckerman on Adventurous Tastes while she’s honeymooning. If you would find it in your schedule to chat with me via email or phone, I would so appreciate it; I write for a few sites doing restaurant reviews and “lifestyle pieces” and am actively seeking more opportunities and would love whatever tips, advice….what to do or not to do…that you could provide! Thanks in advance for any time or consideration you might be able to give! (And I don’t like macaroni salad, either!!)
Carrie Neal
404 512 9293
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Carol
November 22nd, 2009
11:35 am
Dear John, that was a great piece in today’s paper (11/22/09). Read like a cavalry charge. Go get ‘em!, the clueless, the cheats and the charlatans of the culinary world. It will make delightful reading.
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