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Osteria Mattone restaurant review, Roswell

Tortelli di Zucca (credit: Becky Stein)

Tortelli di Zucca (credit: Becky Stein)

In tomorrow’s AJC I have a review of Roswell’s Osteria Mattone, the sister restaurant to Table & Main. I gave it a grade of 2 stars.

The puzzle is beginning to come together at Osteria Mattone, an Italian osteria-trattoria hybrid. Each member of the assembled team brings a unique set of strengths to this restaurant.

Owner Ryan Pernice masterfully manages the dining experience while Chef and co-owner Ted Lahey brings relatable cooking that has a polished simplicity and the potential to ascend from goodness to greatness. The restaurant also benefits from Dan Pernice’s well-considered beverage program and pastry chef Micki Kimberly’s inherent understanding of the dessert experience. These key players make Osteria Mattone the most likely of the two sister restaurants to become the destination where Roswellians have to compete with outsiders for a coveted table.

Lahey makes a mean mess of sausage and peppers ($12), a perfectly rustic and hearty bowl of comfort. Go more upscale with the carefully poised trio of Australian lamb chops ($32). Background grill flavors provide the backdrop for the medium-rare meat brushed with a balsamic-lamb-jus glaze over a creamy gush of mushroom risotto.

Osteria Mattone has an undiscovered gem in the kitchen with up-and-coming pastry chef Kimberly, so don’t skip dessert. Try the Baba Rhum ($8) with Kimberly’s pillowy, rum-soaked brioche luxuriating in a pool of creme anglaise with marsala raisins.

Subscribers can read the full review on myajc.com.

–by Jenny Turknett, Food and More blog

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