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Kimball House restaurant review, Decatur

Shaved Brussels sprouts with pimento-pecan puree. BECKY STEIN/SPECIAL

Shaved Brussels sprouts with pimento-pecan puree. BECKY STEIN/SPECIAL

In tomorrow’s AJC I have a review of Kimball House, the most recent of a string of restaurants to occupy the old Decatur train depot. I gave it a grade of 3 stars.

At Kimball House we find an inspired revival of the once-dying cocktail culture and a raw bar with a brilliant oyster selection unparalleled in Atlanta, the restaurant’s two main draws. We also find an impressive restaurant garden and co-executive chefs Philip Meeker and Jeffrey Wall taking inspiration from early Kimball House hotel menus as they develop new and mostly successful combinations with scores of ingredients, many pickled, cured or fermented in-house. All of these pieces have come together in something of a time capsule for Atlanta dining in 2014.

If you can save room after gorging on oysters, try the sweet and salty fun of the luxuriant pork belly ($12) dotted with crisp fennel slices and brightly sweet orange segments. Be sure to experience the kitchen’s veggie skills with the bowl of soft, roasted sunchokes, charred scallions and beech mushrooms ($10) enriched by smoked lardo.

The Atlanta dining scene is having a moment, all encapsulated in one tidy package at Kimball House.

Subscribers can read the full review on myajc.com.

–by Jenny Turknett, Food and More blog

9 comments Add your comment

art

January 31st, 2014
10:37 am

Good review JT. I wish they took reservations. Sounds like the waits on weekend nights are a bit “off putting”.

Theron Sapp

January 31st, 2014
10:52 am

Art there is right. At these prices, they need to act like a grown-up restaurant and take reservations.

Good Food Eater

January 31st, 2014
3:46 pm

I would go but they don’t accept reservations.

Avery

February 1st, 2014
1:30 am

I predict they will take reservations eventually–maybe it’s an opening thing? Seems like it’s easier to switch from no reservations to reservations than the other way around…

gunga din

February 1st, 2014
9:13 pm

what is with all these “hoity toity” restaurant and pork belly ??

terrie ellison

February 2nd, 2014
4:02 am

I am handicapped. please take reservations. I would love to try your food and I live in
Avondale Estates with many neighbors that would like reservations and a friendly
good service restaurant with wonderful food.

GeauxEat

February 2nd, 2014
8:09 am

Sounds great. The reservation issue is concerning. But pork belly is the new steak. Awesome flavor and versatile. Need a filler since Pura Vida is gone and BigSky isn’t open yet.

MeToo

February 4th, 2014
7:02 am

The original Kimball House downtown had the best martinis, burgers, and good times.

Ned Ludd

February 4th, 2014
7:40 am

Agreed MeToo—many great lunches there in the 80’s–Along with Ivy St Library, Mug, Little Mug, Herren’s,–Not to mention many happy hours!