In tomorrow’s AJC I have a review of Kimball House, the most recent of a string of restaurants to occupy the old Decatur train depot. I gave it a grade of 3 stars.
At Kimball House we find an inspired revival of the once-dying cocktail culture and a raw bar with a brilliant oyster selection unparalleled in Atlanta, the restaurant’s two main draws. We also find an impressive restaurant garden and co-executive chefs Philip Meeker and Jeffrey Wall taking inspiration from early Kimball House hotel menus as they develop new and mostly successful combinations with scores of ingredients, many pickled, cured or fermented in-house. All of these pieces have come together in something of a time capsule for Atlanta dining in 2014.
If you can save room after gorging on oysters, try the sweet and salty fun of the luxuriant pork belly ($12) dotted with crisp fennel slices and brightly sweet orange segments. Be sure to experience the kitchen’s veggie skills with the bowl of soft, roasted sunchokes, charred scallions and beech mushrooms ($10) enriched by smoked lardo.
The Atlanta dining scene is having a moment, all encapsulated in one tidy package at Kimball House.
Subscribers can read the full review on myajc.com.
–by Jenny Turknett, Food and More blog