In tomorrow’s AJC I have a review of Zeal, a new restaurant in East Cobb. I gave it a grade of 1 star.
Recently we’ve noticed a small, but encouraging, budding of independent restaurants in the East Cobb area. At Zeal chef Eric Mulville, former executive chef at Maggiano’s Buckhead, presents a menu intended to be both healthful and satisfying for comfort food cravings. Technique he has down — never an overcooked item and proteins like the skirt steak ($21) are surprisingly tender and moist. The whiskey and craft beer flights offer their own kind of oasis in the suburban chain-restaurant sprawl. But lack of seasoning and Mulville’s sweet leanings taint otherwise auspicious dishes. The food appeals more in concept than on the plate.
Zeal’s casual atmosphere makes for an inviting community hangout. Use it as a place to grab a fine burger tricked out with roasted Hatch green chiles ($13) and to sample the craft beer selections like the yeasty Boulevard Tank 7 Farmhouse Ale ($6).
Don’t miss the cornmeal-dusted zucchini ($7), my favorite dish at Zeal. Tall fingers of the cornmeal battered vegetable come presented in a small, paper-lined tin bucket. A thin lemony aioli keeps the mildly crunchy, seasoned crust light, bright and fresh.
If I’m in the neighborhood and want a bite and a beverage, I could find myself here snuggled into one of the comfy chairs in the lounge or perched on a patio bench with friends.
Subscribers can read the full review on myajc.com.
–by Jenny Turknett, Food and More blog