I recently revisited Haven, Brookhaven’s 10 year-old eatery that watched the neighborhood grow up around it. While its price point may be slightly higher than at most local hangouts, Haven has made a point to mold itself to the needs of the community. Couples and singles spanning multiple generations fill its enticing space with glowing amber lighting and warm wooden tables facing an open white-subway-tiled kitchen. Atmosphere plus solid cooking makes this restaurant a success.
Try the andouille-stuffed quail ($10), the gloriously browned bird comes filled with a fluffy stuffing, spicy Spotted Trotter sausage, sticks of pickled okra and a crock of firm red field peas cooked baked-bean-style. Or, order the bacon-wrapped trout ($23) encased in a crispy sorghum bacon shell and served over a roulade of sage-and-parsley-scented trout. Paired with brown butter and toasted pecans, how can you go wrong?
So many restaurants try to be everything for everybody and end up stretching themselves too thin. Not Haven. It knows the community and has successfully tailored itself accordingly.
I gave it a grade of 3 stars. Subscribers can read the full review on myajc.com.
–by Jenny Turknett, Food and More blog