In tomorrow’s AJC I have a review of 1910 Public House, Lilburn’s new chef-driven bistro. I gave it a grade of 2 stars.
At 1910 Public House chef Robert Elliott puts his own stamp on Southern comfort classics. He has a tendency to tinker, sometimes delivering, sometimes not. Furthermore, the seniors and young children filling the tables may not appreciate his playful attempts, like putting peanut butter in the grits. Don’t get me wrong, there are some great bites to be had, Elliott just needs to tone it down and play more to his audience.
If you ride out the highs and lows, you’ll find a comfortable middle ground. You’ll come to appreciate the simple dishes like the aggressively seasoned, cider-poached chicken ($17). The deep golden sear belies the moisture contained within. Paired with a gooey pimento-cheese potato gratin, you have the makings of a mainstay.
Try the fancy-named corn pudding and ale-battered tomatoes, another decent version of the fried-green sort ($8). Go straight for the pudding, a jiggling little custard mass with whole corn kernels suspended inside.
If chef Robert Elliott can convince the area’s diners to come along for the ride, accepting both successes and flubs alike, 1910 Public House will carve out its own niche.
Subscribers can read the full review on myajc.com.
–Jenny Turknett, Food and More blog