accessAtlanta

City & State or ZIP Tonight, this weekend, May 5th...
City & State or ZIP
City & State or ZIP Tonight, this weekend, May 5th...
City & State or ZIP

1910 Public House restaurant review, Lilburn

Fried chicken livers with peanut butter grits, apples and cole slaw (credit: Becky Stein)

Fried chicken livers with peanut butter grits, apples and cole slaw (credit: Becky Stein)

In tomorrow’s AJC I have a review of 1910 Public House, Lilburn’s new chef-driven bistro. I gave it a grade of 2 stars.

At 1910 Public House chef Robert Elliott puts his own stamp on Southern comfort classics. He has a tendency to tinker, sometimes delivering, sometimes not. Furthermore, the seniors and young children filling the tables may not appreciate his playful attempts, like putting peanut butter in the grits. Don’t get me wrong, there are some great bites to be had, Elliott just needs to tone it down and play more to his audience.

If you ride out the highs and lows, you’ll find a comfortable middle ground. You’ll come to appreciate the simple dishes like the aggressively seasoned, cider-poached chicken ($17). The deep golden sear belies the moisture contained within. Paired with a gooey pimento-cheese potato gratin, you have the makings of a mainstay.

Try the fancy-named corn pudding and ale-battered tomatoes, another decent version of the fried-green sort ($8). Go straight for the pudding, a jiggling little custard mass with whole corn kernels suspended inside.

If chef Robert Elliott can convince the area’s diners to come along for the ride, accepting both successes and flubs alike, 1910 Public House will carve out its own niche.

Subscribers can read the full review on myajc.com.

–Jenny Turknett, Food and More blog

4 comments Add your comment

Anton Chigurh

December 20th, 2013
11:01 am

Trying to imagine peanut butter grits … can’t do it.

art

December 20th, 2013
11:05 am

I liked the review. However, I’m a little surprised that you gave it 2 stars. From the sound of things, there seemed to be more misses than hits.

gunga din

December 21st, 2013
7:33 am

What, no pork belly ???

Baltisraul.....

December 22nd, 2013
4:45 pm

gunga din…..you are right, but maybe they do not offer pork belly. Too bad, its a big favorite and a top seller. Their loss!!