In tomorrow’s AJC I have a review of Timone’s, Ron Eyester’s newest restaurant addition. I gave it 1 star.
Eyester established himself in the Morningside neighborhood when he bought out Food 101 and rebranded it as Rosebud in 2008. Three years later, he opened The Family Dog in the same neighborhood. Now he has embarked on a third project, Timone’s, a pizza house that he admitted has been “a challenging project.”
Eyester said his new pizza joint is “New York inspired,” but is careful to avoid calling it “authentic.” Indeed, you’ll find oversized maps of the city lacquered on the tabletops, themed posters and weathered pressed-tin tiles lining the comfortable space. What you won’t find at Timone’s is a perfected “authentic” pie, authentic or otherwise.
Pizza serves as this restaurant’s calling card, but whatever your preferred style, this one will likely rouse your ire. It’s still a work in progress and won’t yet be the place to savor the therapeutic goodness of a well-made slice.
Instead, Timone’s can be your spot for “marinara Italian,” a restaurant serving many comforting, traditional red-sauce-based dishes. Don’t miss the sausage and peppers ($8), with its long slices of seared sweet Italian sausage layered with soft braised peppers in a spicy San Marzano tomato sauce.
Or, get your Italian comfort food fix with a perfectly good chicken parmigiana sandwich ($9.50), one where the coating on the Springer Mountain chicken cutlet gets nice and smudgy as it melds with the melty homemade mozzarella and tangy red sauce.
With a little effort, you’ll figure out how to make this your local hangout.
Subscribers can read the full review on myajc.com.
–by Jenny Turknett, Food and More blog