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Gunshow restaurant review, Atlanta

Chef Kevin Gillespie shows off some of his creations (credit: Becky Stein)

Chef Kevin Gillespie shows off some of his creations (credit: Becky Stein)

In tomorrow’s AJC I have a review of Gunshow, Kevin Gillespie’s new restaurant. I gave it a grade of 3 stars.

Gunshow’s format, inspired by dim sum and Brazilian churrascarias, not only combats the pretense of fine dining, it also makes it accessible to more cost-conscious diners. Granted, some plates seem a bit light for a $12-$18 price tag, but the model makes it easy to track and manage costs.

And while the food may ring true for fine dining, logistics can be a bit of a bugger. Dishes will begin flying in for you to refuse or accept at a rapid pace once you sit. You might feel a little rankled when you’ve had three courses before ordering a beverage because servers won’t give your group more than one menu despite requests for another.

Maybe you’ll feel put out by the constant tally marking of your menu to track the dishes you’ve accepted from the chefs. You might long for a fresh plate after four or five dishes. Or, you might object to the lunchroom monitor type hovering nearby with a clipboard to ensure each table receives a steady supply of offerings.

According to Gillespie, you directly impact your own experience at Gunshow. Subtext: Go with the flow. Gunshow will push you out of your comfort zone and challenge all notions of dining, fine or otherwise. You just might find it liberating.

Subscribers can read the review on myajc.com.

–by Jenny Turknett, Food and More blog

One comment Add your comment

Q

October 1st, 2013
3:22 pm

“According to Gillespie, you directly impact your own experience at Gunshow. Subtext: Go with the flow. Gunshow will push you out of your comfort zone and challenge all notions of dining, fine or otherwise. You just might find it liberating.”

Wow, a lot of contradiction in 4 short sentences.

Merely saying “yes” or “no” to the barrage of dishes that pummel you as soon as you sit down- as the reviewer says, before you’ve even had a chance to order a drink or, even worse, begin a conversation with others at your table (not an exaggeration) – does not constitute “impacting your own experience”. Nor does being left adrift for much too long after the initial assault is over. It’s precisely the opposite.

There is novelty in the service, and the food was mostly excellent. And I’m grateful that such a talented group of chefs chose to open such a high profile place in my neighborhood. Maybe the Gunshow “thing” will have lasting appeal, and maybe I’m just not very cool. Or maybe the awful pacing of the service was just an honest mistake that will be corrected in time. But for myself and at least 3 other people, having food shoved in our faces before our seats had even warmed up and being told to either accept it or not was not “liberating”. They certainly pushed us, though, and we were not comfortable. You definitely got that part right.