In tomorrow’s AJC, I have a review of Woodfire Grill, now under the direction of chef Tyler Williams. I gave it four stars.
Woodfire Grill, which opened in 2002, quickly became one of Atlanta’s foremost farm-to-table restaurants, known for use of locally harvested produce and humanely raised meats. It also was known for distinguished service and a value-friendly, approachable wine program. Overall, one of Atlanta’s premier fine-dining restaurants.
Having a “Top Chef” finalist didn’t hurt. When Chef Kevin Gillespie took the helm, he raised the bar and elevated the cuisine at Woodfire. After he departed, chef Tyler Williams put his own stamp on the menu.
“Playful” and “personality” are the two words Williams used to describe his cooking. I’d have to agree. I’d also add analytical and edgy as descriptors for his approach, a play in temperature, flavor and textural contrasts.
Williams said he tries to avoid farm-to-table monotony by applying unusual flavor profiles to ingredients. Yet, he insisted he is “not trying to shock people” and that his dishes “are not weird for the sake of being weird.” On this point, I’m not completely convinced. Williams dances this line, occasionally planting feet on both sides.
Welcome to Woodfire Grill version 3.0.
Subscribers can read the full review on myajc.com.
–by Jenny Turknett, Food and More blog