I’ve always thought that one of my great failings as an omnivore is that I get stuck in ruts. This is particularly true at Asian restaurants with encyclopedic menus.
Case in point: Nam Phuong. If I go to the grander Norcross branch, I usually have a posse in tow to feast on bun hoi — the platter of grilled meats, herbs and marinated vegetables to roll up in rice paper rounds. If I go to the close-to-home and more modest Buford Highway branch, I’m there for pho — my favorite local version of this beef noodle soup.
On a recent visit I noticed the menu had started to feature a list of “Vietnamese street food” appetizers, including canh ga chien nuoc mam, chicken wings glazed in fish sauce. The food gods must have been looking out for me when this caught my eye.
More of a full meal than an appetizer, this huge portion of wings are flavored to the bone with their salty-sweet marinade, crispy, tossed in a sticky and tangy sauce with cooked scallions and red chiles, then showered with crunchy fried shallots. A salad of cukes, tomatoes and lettuce comes on the side, along with a scoop of rice.
I’m obsessed. These are my new favorite wings. I think my pho consumption is about to go way down.
- by John Kessler for the Food & More blog