Shorty’s Pizza, with two locations in Toco Hills and Tucker, serves thin-crust wood-fired pizzas named for diverse musical acts.
Diverse is diverse, from G. Love to Tito Puente, Biggie Smalls, Sid Vicious, Jack White, Ravi Shankar and Peter Tosh. As a menu, it’s like the iPod belonging to a 50-year-old guy who goes to hear new acts at the Earl in his vintage Buzzcocks t-shirt.
The restaurant also serves small plates, big salads, focaccia sandwiches and a handful of entrees.
If I may speak freely, here’s what the menu really features: Old guy stoner food.
It’s all hilariously off kilter, stuff you’d throw together with ample hunger but little artfulness, with the sole intention of jamming it merrily into your face.
But it’s that kind of food if you don’t want the carbs, grease and meat as much as the textures and flavors. Perhaps if you have started to worry more about what you eat.
The salad above, listed under small plates, unites arugula, threads of spaghetti squash, a fistful of walnuts and ricotta salata cheese in a barely-there dressing. Yumstown.
The “(I’m) Rick James” pizza at right comes with more walnuts, sausage, broccoli and roasted onions. The crust is just north of a cracker, and the cheese comes in such a thin veneer that you can snarf down three pieces without it turning heavy in your stomach.
We liked a blob of fresh, spicy guacamole but hated the stale fried tostada rounds that accompanied it in lieu of chips.
The “Jethro Tull” pizza is listed on the menu as “currently unavailable.” I’m sure there’s a story, and it involves a very late night.
- by John Kessler for the Food & More blog