Brisket, Chuck, and sometimes short rib – These are easily the most popular burger grind in the city, and rightfully so. While every chef plays with the ratios, some sticking to just brisket and chuck, some throwing short rib into the mix, and most keep their true grind recipes a secret, these are the cuts you most often find in the “we grind the burgers ourselves” kitchens across town.
The resulting burger when using these cuts turns out a great fat to lean ratio, resulting in very flavorful, juicy, and beefy patties.
But what about some of the less celebrated burgers around town that throw in something other than just cow?
I recently had one such burger at Canoe that deserves more attention than it gets. Only on the menu for about 2 years, I’m still a little ashamed that it took me this long to discover it, but I’ve never really considered Canoe for a $14 dinner as much as for an anniversary or special occasion wallet-crushing meal. Shame on me then.
Enter the Duck ‘n Beef burger – a heady grind of 70% beef, 30% duck, topped with a fried egg, wilted spinach, pickled cabbage, and truffle fries. I wasn’t sure what to expect from this, if the duck would add too much gaminess, or how it would blend with the beef. But, chef Carvel Grant Gould hits the perfect blend of richness from the duck fat that enhances rather than overpowers the beef. The sunny side up egg only helps things further, as they often do, but the patty could stand on its own just fine.
I had trouble describing this burger without swear words, and I mean that in a completely positive way.
There aren’t many on my list, but the Duck ‘n Beef burger at Canoe may have just shot to the top spot for my favorite hybrid burger in town, and at $14, completely worth stopping in to try out.
- By Jon Watson, Food & More blog