For gosh sakes, don’t call it a speakeasy. Paper Plane partner/barman, Paul Calvert, would not approve.
But the new spot, hidden away behind a black door in the back of the recently opened Decatur location of Victory Sandwich Bar, sure feels like a sub rosa den of drink.
Paper Plane opens for business tonight. Last night, a claustrophobic soft opening had groups of young revelers partying loud, proud and cheek-by-jowl in the cozy, dimly lit space.
A sneak peek at the drink menu reveals some 16 wines by the glass and bottle, 15 bottled craft beers, and around a dozen cocktail creations by Calvert.
The appropriately christened Biggie Snugs ($8) is a wickedly refreshing concoction mixed with Johnny Drum 86 bourbon, Byrrh, lemon, ginger, honey, Bitter Truth Creole bitters and soda.
In the kitchen, Melissa Allen and Josh Sample are cooking up a short list of “fine foods” presented as medium-sized plates that recall the “modular” cocktail-friendly offerings at Sound Table.
On the opening menu: a creamy spring Vidalia and English pea soup ($6); steelhead trout with rhubarb, blood orange, watermelon radish and hakurei turnip ($14); braised short rib with cannellini bean puree, tamarind, onion and shallot ($13).
340 Church Street, Decatur, 404-377-9308.
— Bob Townsend, Food and More blog.