Atlanta Classic: McKinnon’s Louisiane, Buckhead
A lot has changed in Atlanta since 1972.
The metro area grew by thousands of square miles and its population swelled by millions. We’ve hosted the Olympics, have the busiest airport in the world, and have out-sprawled nearly every other city in the country. But some things haven’t changed, and McKinnon’s Louisiane is one of them.
Review by Jon Watson
By the time I migrated from Cobb County into the city, McKinnon’s already qualified as an Atlanta Classic. So much so that in my eagerness to try out all of the newly opened bars and restaurants, I didn’t even think about stopping in. For years, I’d drive past the weathered sign in front, and images of a smoky bar filled with salty, hard-drinkin’ regulars flashed through my mind. As I discovered upon my first visit, I had it all wrong. That is, except for the part about the regulars.
It’s a time capsule of old-school Atlanta dining, with a feel that couldn’t be recreated if you tried.
Savannah native Billy McKinnon left his job as a Wall Street Stockbroker in the late 1960s and settled in Atlanta. Through some family contacts he wound up taking a three-month unpaid apprenticeship at Galatoire’s, the famed French Creole restaurant in New Orleans. There, he learned the food business and Creole and Cajun cuisine.
In 1972, McKinnon opened McKinnon’s Louisiane off Cheshire Bridge road, where the business remained until moving in 1985 to the current Buckhead location. In addition to running the restaurant and crafting the Creole recipes, McKinnon quickly endeared himself to his customers and earned a fast and loyal following. Some of those recipes, like the sautéed grouper Louisiane topped with toasted almonds, lump crab meat, and hollandaise ($22.50) remain on the menu to this day.
Photo by Becky Stein
At age 65, McKinnon sold the restaurant in 2002 to longtime employee and general manager Aziz Mehram, who had been with the business since 1979. Mehram remains committed to maintaining the customer service and welcoming atmosphere that earned McKinnon’s such a loyal following. Rarely a day goes by when he isn’t feverishly working the front of house, greeting guests and stopping by the tables to check on customers and chat.
According to Mehram, more 70 percent of its business comes from return customers, many of whom have been with McKinnon’s for all 40 years it has been in business. “People come, and they don’t leave,” he says. There is a sense that everyone knows everyone’s name, and with a little time they’d quickly get to know yours as well.
Little has changed at McKinnon’s over the years. The décor flavor is old-school Vegas, from the wood-paneled walls of the more formal Louisiane Room to the framed photos of longtime customers lining the bar. You can still order a round of Billy’s Hot Peppered Shrimp ($19.50) and taste the same buttery spicy sauce they’ve served for decades. Friday and Saturday nights feature Fran Irwin at the piano bar, a gig she has worked 51 weeks a year for the last quarter-century.
It would be a challenge to find a more dedicated group of restaurant regulars than those in the less formal “Grill Room” for Cabaret Night every Wednesday. Each week, a clan of patrons who’ve clearly known each other many years puts on its own cabaret show with the help of pianist Bob Fountain on an old Thomas organ. The regulars take turns each week acting as the conductor for the show, picking the songs as well as the singers from the crowd.
On one recent night, after the third or fourth call for “Lovely Lou” to take the mic, a sweet-looking older woman in a fine Sunday hat treated the crowd to a rendition of the Rodgers and Hammerstein show tune, “I Enjoy Being a Girl.” A few minutes later, a gentleman with an accordion performed a decidedly unique version of “Jump Jive An’ Wail.”
What was most captivating wasn’t necessarily the quality of the singing – though more than a few participants had a nice set of pipes on them – but the group’s obvious camaraderie. This is a place to leave the snark at the door and not worry if you don’t look “cool” when you’re suddenly on your feet in a conga line.
There is an authentic sense of community at McKinnon’s that can only develop organically, through years of a shared experience. And that is something Atlanta restaurants could use more of these days.
McKINNON’S LOUISIANE3209 Maple Drive, Buckhead, 404-237-1313 Food: Cajun and Creole cuisine, Service: old school, professional, and attentive Best dishes: Oysters Rockefeller, Hot Peppered Shrimp, and Bronzed Halibut Vegetarian selections: Very few, menu is mostly seafood Price range: $$$ Credit cards: Visa, Mastercard, American Express and Discover Hours: 5:30 p.m-10 p.m. Mondays-Sundays Children: Ok, if well behaved Parking: Lot fills up, but adjacent lots can handle the overflow Reservations: yes Wheelchair access: yes Smoking: no Noise level: quiet to moderate Patio: no Takeout: yes
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37 comments Add your comment
Billy
September 6th, 2012
7:49 am
How’s the food?
Van Jones
September 6th, 2012
9:06 am
Billy, dee-lishous!
Sam
September 6th, 2012
9:15 am
Aziz is a very nice and cordial person.
JohnS
September 6th, 2012
10:23 am
My late father-in-law used to go there all the time , and we always enjoyed the food when we were there. We need to go there again.
Once
September 6th, 2012
10:27 am
Went there on a date once while in college….
zeke
September 6th, 2012
10:41 am
I no longer live in the area> In the late 80’s and early 90’s I was blessed to eat there many times. Billy Mc was indeed a great host! The food was absolutely great! Hopefully, since I have family now in the area, I will get an opportunity to eat there again!
My best remembering was of McKinnons in Buckhead and Scalinis in Smyrna!!
Catlanta
September 6th, 2012
11:12 am
Wonderful food, and the first place in Atlanta I saw posting a “no cell phones at the table” sign. Talk about civilized!
Sheriff John Brown
September 6th, 2012
11:14 am
Suprise..Thought they paid you to be a food critic not cabaret review…might be worst review ever
Big Earl
September 6th, 2012
11:52 am
I thought they were best known for their steaks??? They should be….they’re GREAT!
Rupricht
September 6th, 2012
12:00 pm
Sheriff Brown,
There’s a McDonald’s a few blocks away for you.
Tish
September 6th, 2012
12:36 pm
I feel bad saying this, but I did not like the food. I did enjoy the lounge everyone in there was having a great time chatting, dancing and singing. Older crowd with a lot of energy. It was like the movie Coccon.
Hugh J
September 6th, 2012
12:45 pm
“If ignorance was an Olympic event, the heats would be held in the comment sections of national newspapers.”…. I’m looking at you ‘Sheriff’ John Brown.
Mike
September 6th, 2012
1:07 pm
I’m one of the many people who know this place has been there forever but have never been in. I need to change that when I can find someone to go with who’s neither a new-and-hot hipster or a whiny doesn’t-like-spicy-food type.
I had the same incorrect view of Joey D’s out in Dunwoody – from the outside you’d think it was a dark clubby place like the old Coach and Six, with red leather banquettes and a pianist doing Sinatra covers all night.
Theron Sapp
September 6th, 2012
1:36 pm
Mr. Watson, as the first commenter noted, you didn’t actually say how the food was. I like McKinnon’s, but what did you think?
TNTnd65
September 6th, 2012
1:49 pm
Moved to Atlanta in ‘79 and discovered McKinnon’s almost that long ago. The food is great and always served professionally. I love the Snapper Louisianne, and the Oysters Rockefeller are a great start.
Aziz makes you feel at home with expert service and congeniality that is rare.
It is always a pleasure to listen ( I can’t sing at all) to the highly professional voices that drop in to the delight of everyone in the bar.
Dawne Dawson
September 6th, 2012
2:35 pm
I’ve been in Atlanta for 35 years, known about McKinnon’s for most of those years but just ate there when my daughter took me there recently. Wonderful!! I loved the welcoming feel of the place and the food was wonderful! Can’t wait to go back!
Rick
September 6th, 2012
2:36 pm
I think those that want to know how’s the food missed the point – this place is about much more than food. I have never been there, but I get that and now want to go sometime. By the way, the Hot Peppered Shrimp is buttery and spicy and just like they have made it for decades – maybe some of you out there should slow down and read it again…….
DNG
September 6th, 2012
3:13 pm
The food is absolutely delicious! Atmosphere not so much, an upgrade to the 21st century woudn’t hurt. For more about date night spots, visit us online at http://www.datenightgurus.com
johnatl
September 6th, 2012
3:42 pm
Fetus Breath – Do you have reading comprehension issues? Re-read the review, but I’m guessing you aren’t the type that would enjoy such a great place.
Fetus Breath
September 6th, 2012
3:44 pm
The only thing reviewed was the shrimp…..Does this place just sell shrimp?
Yelp
September 6th, 2012
3:55 pm
Is this the AJC food blog, or Yelp? I see only one food item mentioned with the bulk of the article about the space it’s self. Any food related discourse is from others, not the blog author.
Me thinks johnatl is actually Jon Watson.
jim
September 7th, 2012
5:57 am
a place thats been around this long has got to be great.
paul
September 7th, 2012
7:31 am
One of the best Scoutmob dinners I have had. Fried Crawfish Tails and Blackened Amberjack were awesome!
J_Koz
September 7th, 2012
7:57 am
We ‘discovered’ McKinnons years ago when we first came to ATL. Have been back many times over the years. Outstanding creole dishes, great seafood. Visibility from Ptree is its biggest problem. But then we’d hate to wait in the typical Bhead line. Yes it could use some updating – but how many times have updates ruined good ATL restaurants. Go for the food, enjoy the experience, then wonder why so many ATL ‘hot new places’ won’t be around next year.
Reg
September 7th, 2012
8:35 am
Use to go several times a year but haven’t been lately. The food and service was outstanding. Although The atmosphere is old, it is quite enjoyable stepping back in time. Loved the place and I’m quite sure Billy would not have left the place in any other hands that would not follow in his footsteps. Thanks for writing about McKinnons and reminding me about one of the best kept secrets in Atlanta. I’ll be visiting it soon!
Daryl-Atlanta
September 7th, 2012
7:32 pm
So good that this place has survived as long as it has in a city where restaurants open and close with the wind despite how good or bad their food/service/value is. McKinnon’s Louisiane is a quality establishment with both good food and service at a fair price which accounts for its high level of repeat business and faithful customers. Though I don’t eat fish or seafood, I never hesitate to recommend the restaurant as a great place to go for those who do as their menu has something for everyone.
Eliot ATL
September 7th, 2012
8:08 pm
Love the food one word AWESOME!!!!! Service is OUTSTANDING staff always greets you with a smile.
bennett
September 7th, 2012
8:53 pm
outstanding service until you drop a coupon on ‘em. if you don’t like coupons don’t market them.
William ATL
September 8th, 2012
6:25 am
Wonderful review. Thanks for highlighting this gem. The food is great – classic New Orleans menu in the heart of Buckhead. Also, Aziz, the owner, is perhaps one of the kindest, most genuine humans I’ve met. Although I no longer live in ATL, we passed thru about 4 years ago and took our kids to McKinnon’s. Our picky 8 year old still raves about the fried crawfish tails (popcorn crawfish) and begs to go back.
ATLAS
September 8th, 2012
7:06 pm
Love this little hidden gem everytime I go the food is great…
cynthia
September 8th, 2012
8:49 pm
If you are vegetarian/vegan, don’t let that stop you! Mr. Aziz will happily accommodate you.
Bill
September 10th, 2012
12:10 pm
Great sauteed chicken livers. I love restaurants like this.
John Weber
September 10th, 2012
4:36 pm
Don’t judge a book by it’s cover.McKinnon’s is the Buckhead diamond in the rough.Great food,great service and the best Host / owner in the business.Mr. Aziz Mehram.You won’t meet a nicer fella.All the best Aziz,you deserve it.
Vicki the Regular
September 11th, 2012
6:17 am
I have had the pleasure of dining at McKinnons since 1982. In all of the years we have dined there, I have never had a bad experience or bad food. Thanks to Mr. Billy for getting this place started, and a big thanks to Aziz and his lovely wife for keeping it going. Wish we still lived closer.
Mar -Atl Foodie
September 11th, 2012
9:04 am
Husband and I went last Friday night and must have gotten the worst waiter. He couldn’t have a lemonade made from the bar, forgot to bring things to the table, didn’t suggest a salad or veg and didn’t suggest or show us a dessert menu. the owner went around to every table and greeted everyone but our table. We were the Red-headed stepchildren. Plus the kitchen forgot the crab on the grouper dish.I wish we had had a better experience, being a native, I had always wanted to try this place.
Sophie's Choice
September 11th, 2012
5:52 pm
Mars-Atl, you sound as if you had the same experience we had. Years ago, when we’d first moved to Atlanta, we were looking for a restaurant that served good New Orleans cuisine, and someone recommended McKinnon’s. We saved up (I was still a student), and went on our anniversary. Basically, we had a waiter whose rudeness & inattentiveness (he forgot things, got one of our orders completely wrong, pursed his lips & rolled his eyes when we asked about an item on the menu, brushed by us when we would try to get his attention, didn’t ask us if we wanted wine with dinner or dessert, sloshed coffe in our cup when we asked for a refill, & generally acted as if he had more important things to do) ruined it for us completely. We were hoping the food would make up for what the service lacked– but alas, no. An exercise in mediocrity (and yes, I DO know what GOOD Creole, Cajun, & Louisiana cuisine is like)! We ordinarily are at least 20% tippers (even when we didn’t have much money, because we both know what it’s like to work in a restaurant), but we left only a 10% tip, and never looked back. Nearly two decades later, and I can recall it like it was yesterday, because we’ve never had service that bad before or since (and there’ve been a couple of places where we had less than ideal service).
Marsh
September 12th, 2012
11:56 am
Sort of wish I’d tried this place before I left Buckhead, but the 2 comments about service shown to non-regulars kind of makes me glad I didn’t. I thought Alfredo’s sounded kitschy and fun. Until we got there and Rudy, who “everybody” apparently loves, treated us so badly we got up and left. Only time I have ever done that. You don’t want my money? Fine with me. I wanted to kill that guy. He brought us burned bread, put his finger in my face, then just ignored us. I’ve never wanted to strike someone, until that moment. Owner couldn’t have cared less. Oh well.