I’m a such a sucker for Holeman & Finch. Always one of my first suggestions to out of town friends looking for a memorable meal, it is one of the few places that I’ll immediately agree to eating, regardless of how recently I’ve been or what other responsibilities I may have to shirk in order to go.
Of the myriad of things I love about H&F, beyond the fantastic cocktails, carbonara, and that sinful black butter served beneath the pan-seared veal brains, is the fact that I never have to wonder if I can scratch my foie gras itch.
While the johnny cakes, bacon, and farm egg topped with a slice foie is my usual go-to, on my most recent visit, I spotted something that I couldn’t resist trying. The Foiereos – little chocolate cookies, each stuffed with a slice of foie gras torchon and served with a glass of brandy milk punch.
The tiny wafers that make up the “cookie” are light and crispy, and the bitterness of the semisweet chocolate gives a sharp contrast to the rich foie gras. I could only assume that dunking the heady treats into the brandy milk punch was a given. Santa should only have it this good.
At first bite, I found myself searching frantically for that unmistakable foie flavor among the bitterness of the wafers and the burn of the brand. But by my second cookie, I got it. This little snack proved to be worth its $19 price tag, contrasting the flavor of the fatty duck liver in such a playful and unique way that I couldn’t bring myself to share with any in my group. In between bites as I guarded my plate I could only let out a muffled “Sorry, I’m going to write about this later” and hope that it would excuse my selfishness.
I realize that saying that H&F is good is old news, but it is worth recognizing that Hopkins & Co. are still cranking out some of the most consistently inventive and eye-rollingly delicious plates our town has to offer. Fans of foie should check it out before it disappears from the menu.
- By Jon Watson, Food & More blog