Rathbun’s is, of course, packed. My wife and I decide to stop by around 6:30 on a Thursday evening as boisterous groups file past us and up the loading-dock entrance. Parties of six here and eight there, lavish birthday celebrations and swarms of hungry-looking business dudes raring to throw down some big California cabernets on their expense accounts.
We make it to the hostess stand, but don’t even set foot in the dim, noisy dining room. Instead we find ourselves ushered out to the patio with its burbling water feature and corrugated roof, the only part of the Inman Park restaurant that can accommodate walk-in customers on busy nights. That’s just fine by us on a balmy fall evening with our teenagers safely at home. We can talk.
“Wow, it’s been years,” my wife realizes with a start. We used to come here every few months, usually with another couple for one of those evenings of passing plates around the table, ordering another bottle of wine, shouting over the din and eating more than we had bargained for. But who can resist dessert at Rathbun’s? Nobody I’ve ever met.
We look at the menu, startled to recall its length. That’s right, there are more than 20 appetizers and nearly as many entrees. Three soups. Appealing sides like brown butter cauliflower mash, and charred corn with Gouda. Half of the dishes sound like plates of food I want to bury my head in. Roasted pork belly tacos with orange hoisin? Sea scallop Benedict on country ham grits? Braised beef short rib with spaghetti squash carbonara and a Bantam egg yolk to swirl into it? Yes, please. Healthy eating can wait for another night.
Personally, I’ve got a soft spot for this joint. I appreciate the energy of chef Kevin Rathbun’s menu (overseen by chef de cuisine George Brooks) and the way his kitchen pushes big, generous flavors above all other considerations. I admire the low-key precision of the service (thanks to eagle-eyed manager Cliff Bramble) and the fact you never wait long for your food. I cherish that feeling of falling into the special groove of this place — the ultimate hidden warehouse restaurant in a city that loves them.
But the critic in me looks for and finds faults over the course of three visits. The bar has plainly ignored the cocktail revolution that has happened in this city since Rathbun’s opened in 2004. The wine list comes up short, particularly if you’re looking for a lone glass. I resented paying $11.50 for a glass of simple Nobilo Icon pinot noir from New Zealand one night (a wine that often retails for less than $20 a bottle), but there wasn’t much in lighter-bodied red to choose from.
No, the eating is a lot more fun than the drinking at Rathbun’s. That said, the kitchen can’t always execute its vast and sensationally busy menu with consistency. It hearkens back to the times when chefs threw around Thai, Southwestern and Italian ingredients with impunity, and the word “eclectic” became an overused cliché.
So I have no trouble finding busy, sloppy dishes as I explore the menu. I’m looking at you, rubbery little chicken livers ($7.50), sloshing about in a sauce of olive oil, maple syrup and pistachio. And you, lamb scaloppine ($8.75), thin fried cutlets dressed with diced pancetta and goat Gouda cheese in a slick of sticky butter sauce. The flavors in both dishes are brassy but also vague and muddy — the rich, gooey business you might appreciate after a couple of martinis but only after a couple of martinis.
But don’t let a dish that’s not exactly to your liking get in the way at Rathbun’s because there is such easy, friendly pleasure to be had. Order, and keep ordering.
I still love those eggplant steak fries ($7.50), custardy inside their shells of real old-fashioned bread crumbs and dusted with fine confectioners’ sugar. A gentle tumble of loose crab meat with creole mustard inside a shattery tart shell ($10.75) has terrific flavor against a stripe of spicy pepper ketchup on the plate. It’s like mama’s bridge party food but 100 times more awesome.
And hello roasted bone marrow ($8.20)! You’re beautiful, even more so with your grilled ciabatta bread, fig preserves and tiny cellar filled with flaky Maldon sea salt. Have this fatty goodness, then do penance by ordering a salad of zucchini cut into supple ribbons ($6.75) and dressed with basil vinaigrette and flakes of Parmesan cheese.
Have a spot-on meal at Rathbun’s, and you get that feeling of floating away on a raft of yumminess. That beef short rib ($19.75) with its seriously heart-stopping spaghetti squash carbonara only gets better when you add some of that roasted corn with Gouda ($6.95) into the mix. Kevin Rathbun flavors are like James Cameron movies — sure they hit you over the head, but they also transport you.
They’re also canny in a way you rarely see elsewhere in Atlanta. I find myself smitten with the Greek wedge salad ($7.75) — just a wedge of iceberg with cucumbers, sweet pepper strips, feta cheese crumbles and dry-cured black olives. Why? Its vinaigrette prepared with (catch this) dried oregano and canola oil is so pitch-perfect. It is exactly that first homemade salad dressing you tried as a kid in a Greek restaurant, that herb-tempered tang, that feeling of oil slipping from crisp greenery. But 100 times more awesome.
Likewise, my wife relishes her crispy duck breast with Thai risotto ($24.25). She loves sawing at the ideally crisped and defatted skin and plump, pink breast with a steak knife. The rice? It doesn’t register as Thai in any way despite its supposed “green curry essence,” but it provides the right sweet, garlicky tang as a backdrop.
I have to don my critic’s hat again when the kitchen succumbs to avoidable cooking errors. Those pork tacos ($8.95) give you a sloppy kiss of sweet flavor, but the stringy dryness of the meat keeps you from melting into it. Double-cut lamb chops ($38.25) from the “second mortgage” section of prestige entrees come a full degree underdone. It’s an easy fix, but one that makes me think the cooks need to watch their temperatures better.
But I have only rare complaints about the dessert program. Pastry chefs Kirk Parks and Rebecca Weil prepare an incredible variety of mini-desserts ($3.95) that provide about four generous bites each. I can never resist the signature banana peanut butter cream pie under a swirl of browned meringue, and the gooey toffee cake with Jack Daniel’s ice cream is surely the best rendition of this dessert in town. Watch the daily specials for the likes of spiced plum and date crisp with oatmeal streusel and vanilla ice cream.
Rathbun’s is far from flawless. The critic who lives in my head says it needs to pare down the increasingly outdated menu, upgrade the drinks program and work on its execution. But my heart wins out on this one. It’s a special place that still defines one kind of greatness in Atlanta.
RATHBUN’S 112 Krog Street, Atlanta, 404-524-8280
57 comments Add your comment
Carrie Neal Walden
October 13th, 2011
7:07 am
You perfectly captured Rathbun’s! The great and not-so-great – very well put! I, too, have a special place in my heart for this spot. Reminding me of the short ribs makes me want to go back- now!
Brian Sapp
October 13th, 2011
7:41 am
My wife and I went to Rathbun’s last week and we loved it. The crab tart is one of the best things I have ever eaten as well as the warm gooey coffey cake with Jack daniels ice cream. The only dish that did not deliver during our experience was the pork belly taco’s. We are no experts in the area of wine, however we were very happy with the Benton Lane Pinot Grigio (the best Pinot Grigio) we have ever had. This is a resturant that should be on everyones short list.
Jake
October 13th, 2011
9:24 am
We went about 6-7 months ago, and my friend’s roasted chicken was cold. I’m very forgiving, as I have been a server before, and we were extremely nice explaining the cold chicken. The server said he would fix it – he returned 8 minutes later with the same chicken (AND THEY MICROWAVED IT). Now, the chicken was rubbery, flavorless, albeit warm. We asked to see a manager, who was incompetently rude, defending that the chicken was warm to previous time. Unfortunately, our experience at Rathbun’s was not enjoyable – I’d like to return, but I can’t bring myself up to it any time soon.
Frank
October 13th, 2011
9:35 am
This is a joke. 4 stars? Kessler…you lost an ounce of credibility with this one.
Jim
October 13th, 2011
9:43 am
I can’t agree with anything in this review about the service. They must have marked you for special attention, because none of your experience there translates into ours. Having visited this restaurant many times (too many, now that I think of it) over the years, the service has always been lacking. A little too sure of themselves, and their position in the “restaurant scene,” methinks. And that large menu, leading to the inconsistencies in execution… hard to forgive when the menu is, as you point out, a bit dated. Oh, well. Onward and upward!
Allie
October 13th, 2011
10:26 am
Did you get paid to write this review? I have been to the restaurant several times (no more); over priced, arrogant staff, poor service and mediocre food. They do not honor reservations in a timely manner and the Chef if obviously more interested in “celebrities” than his base customers. This restaurant would not survive in NY, LA, Chicago, Miami or any other major city.
AJ
October 13th, 2011
10:34 am
Frank – Can you explain? We’re all entitled to our opinion. John’s review is his opinion. What’s yours? Simply writing “This is a joke” does not convey any reasoning whatsoever…
AJ
October 13th, 2011
10:36 am
Allie – Yes, John did get paid to write the review. I would find it hard to believe that he volunteers his time at the AJC.
I don’t eat at Rathbun’s often since it’s more than I like to spend on a meal, but the 3 or so times I’ve been there, I thoroughly enjoyed my meal. But yes, the reservation situation is poor at best.
Mark
October 13th, 2011
10:58 am
The stars, ohhhhh, the stars.
At this price point, no restaurant without a stellar wine list and cocktail program can be considered a four star “defines excellence in Atlanta” destination. I am sorry, but between the noise, the “intimate” seating, and our experiences with at best adequate service, and no decent wine list (!!!) this is a three star joint. I fail completely to see the elevation above other three’s like Miller Union and Woodfire–both of which have kick b*^@ wine and cocktail programs, BTW.
Frank
October 13th, 2011
11:03 am
AJ – I just have a hard time putting, IN MY OPINION, this filthy establishment which serves over salted, buttery slop (aka Rathbun’s) on the same level as more refined Atlanta restaurants that have garnered 4 stars from Kessler.
Kristine
October 13th, 2011
12:19 pm
You called out all Atlanta chefs 6 months ago and begged them to be more innovative, but give an “outdated” menu 4 stars? You have lost all credibility with this reader.
carla roqs
October 13th, 2011
12:36 pm
wow. i would just like to know how many comments here are from the same ip address. anyway- john, ummmmm, the question begs, did you give them 2 stars with an additional 2 for sentimentality? i was gonna maybe try the place based on your blog- (not the stars)- but two of of three readers here disagree with you.
James
October 13th, 2011
1:15 pm
I think this is a fantastic assessment of Rathbun’s. Though there might be the occasional miss, a great meal at there is hard to beat anywhere. And for a restaurant of this caliber, there is very little pretense, which is also a bonus. Judging from the comments, it sounds as if some folks may be resentful of Rathbun’s success, perhaps for reasons that have little to do with the quality of the food (just a guess based on the peculiar tone of some of the comments…)
PJ
October 13th, 2011
2:01 pm
I love Rathbun’s. It is a good thing I don’t live closer or I would bankrupt our family eating there. I’ve not had a bad dish nor bad service any of the times I’ve eaten there over the years. One of my favorite things is that I can eat my way around the world in one meal – a Greek appetizer, Mexican-style entree, some Asian-inspired sides – and all are spot-on. And I agree with John, those desserts are amazing. The Krog candy bar is a personal favorite. I do find it odd that there isn’t a more interesting cocktail menu. I’ve taken several cooking classes at Rathbun’s and one of the biggest treats is the interesting cocktail we get with the passed apps. Those cocktails are always amazing, so I know the ideas are there. I love using the other things I learned at the classes, like my much-improved knife skills thanks to Chef George or the best-ever biscuits thanks to Chef Kirk (and also the roasted pumpkin bread pudding – yum!). Not only are these guys great chefs, but great teachers. I always leave Rathbun’s full & happy, knowing that the chefs in the kitchen care as much about my dining experience as I do.
Mark
October 13th, 2011
2:29 pm
@carla: I’d echo James and PJ in general: it’s a very good restaurant with well done food and a really cool location. I have no quibbles with the restaurant–I think it is comparable to the Miller Union or Woodfire, which is high praise in my book. My only issues are 1) as a wine geek, the lack of a cool wine program, and 2) John’s star rating suggesting that it’s head and shoulders above MU/WF. That’s just plain wrong.
Barbara
October 13th, 2011
2:47 pm
I must admit I am perplexed by some of the haters in this comment section. Rathbun’s is a favorite and John’s review is spot on. It is not perfect but there is so much to love about this unique restaurant that you can forgive the occasional slip. Food, service, atmosphere are all some of the best in Atlanta not to mention that the ownership genuinely wants you to feel happy, welcome, and well fed.
MMMMMMmmm. Foood
October 13th, 2011
3:00 pm
I enjoy the place immensely. I love the space, the approachable menu, & the pairings. I vote yes!
My last meal was ruined by my sister and bother-in-law ordering the most expensive items on the menu, ordering designer drinks, & assuming we would split the bill. Then they got to go boxes for the 70% of dinner they didn’t eat. :-/
John Kessler
October 13th, 2011
3:08 pm
Hey, folks – I had a feeling this review would get a discussion going. I can tell you that it was a very hard one to write, and I really didn’t quite know what star rating would result until I was well into the review. There’s a kind of buoyancy to Rathbun’s; I think it engages and entertains you in a way that few restaurants in town do, and my gut said to go with the higher rating. It’s kind of our Commander’s Palace. I agree that it isn’t as sophisticated as some restaurants I’ve rated three stars (and are also more to my personal taste). But every restaurant has a different mission statement.
Oh, and to whoever said the food was too buttery and salty? I’ve definitely had that experience in the past, but at each of my three recent meals the food was all well seasoned. Thanks for reading!
Wow
October 13th, 2011
3:43 pm
“our Commander’s Palace”? Wow! I couldn’t agree less. In my opinion, Rathbun’s is showing it’s age and it’s not aging well at all. Some people might argue that by not being trendy, it’s aging in a good way. I don’t want to see it jump on all the latest trends either. My biggest complaint would be lack of consistency. Overcooked/undercooked, overseasoned/underseasoned seems to be the norm here over the last couple of years. It just doesn’t seem like the pride in what’s being served is still here.
Intown Foody
October 13th, 2011
5:06 pm
Nam nam nam
Intown Foody
October 13th, 2011
5:09 pm
chili-rubbed quick seared cubed pork butt with a tamarind glaze and coriander infused wild sheepdip with roasted beets on a bed of baby arugula.
peanut butter ice cream
1989 chateau-neuf-du-paup perignon lafleur
g-13 in da vaporizer
PJ
October 13th, 2011
5:20 pm
What is so wrong with great, “older” restaurants? It seems just because other, newer places have come along that many are ready to bag on the ones that have been around. I see it here & in the comments following the recent review of Wisteria. Different chefs innovate and create in different ways – a reason I love to eat at a variety of places. And, while I love trying new places & adding them to my “great restaurant” rotation, Rathbun’s remains an amazing place that has consistently delivered over time.
Billie
October 13th, 2011
5:21 pm
LOL @ chateau-neuf-du-paup — short for pauper?
drink enuf and you will be one!
Dave
October 13th, 2011
6:16 pm
“Rathbun’s is far from flawless.” I love comparing the words in a review to the stars. Isn’t a four out of five star review, just, just this side of flawless? It seems you had to find something to throw in to…. what I’m not sure. When was the last time anyone had perfection? All that said, I do want to visit Rathbun’s. I’ve been to the steak place which was excellent, food, service and ambiance. And, don’t like the wine selection? If the steak place has the same policy as the original, pay a reasonable corkage fee and bring what makes your evening just this side of perfect.
Carpetbagger
October 13th, 2011
7:16 pm
Ahhhh ….. The ATL! The largest city in the US where mediocrity is the rage with praise. What a muldoon town full of over hype.
Fred
October 13th, 2011
7:21 pm
I dunno. I agree with Dave. You have written better things about other places and given them lower stars. I don’t trust you any more. I AM however surprised that you actually posted a comment on your own blog. You rarely do that since you have taken over Meredeth’s place of payoffs, I mean seat of “honor.”
I may actually go try this typical yuppie trendy place to see if it’s all that. I went to his other place but wasn’t impressed. But then again it was a steak place. What’s so hard about making a damn steak?
Seems to me though John that you give the good reviews to the yuppie trendy places whether they are really good or not. given the fact you haven’t given 4 stars to anything I’ve read, I think I’ll go try it on my birthday, the 29th. You gonna join us and buy? LOL
Kristen
October 13th, 2011
8:06 pm
Dined here once, experienced mediocre service, and then was served a rancid grilled lobster. Perhaps they had an off night, but I’ve never had the desire to return. For this price point, you need to be spot on with everything you serve from start to finish. Sorry, John, must disagree mightily.
The Bald Eagle
October 13th, 2011
10:20 pm
I’ve been once with my wife. The food was good, very good, but not you know, “special” good. (Which probably explains why we’ve only been once.) I’d probably give it about three stars based on the food alone. The service, however, was excellent.
I’m also a big fan of Rathbun’s other ventures, Krog Bar and Steak. The bar is just a great little place to hang out, and Kevin Rathbun Steak, it just excels in every possible way. Pricey for sure, but a great “special occasion” place.
Louis
October 13th, 2011
10:35 pm
It’s not Commander’s Palace. Not by any stretch.
sansho1
October 13th, 2011
10:35 pm
The stars seem like a necessary evil…that said, if you don’t like the star rating, why not go by the review itself? Who the he11 goes to a restaurant thinking about star ratings? “Kessler said this was a four, but I’d give it a three at best.” Would you? I’m rapt!
Stacy
October 14th, 2011
8:47 am
I used to love Rathbuns, however, on my last visit they were unyielding in their corkage policy, two of the entrees were way over salted, and a steak was sent back twice before it was cooked enough. (medium, not an unusual request). The manager could only recite the rules and seemed uncapable of making an acception to the corkage policy to accomodate a special occasion for some formerly frequent diners. A letter was written and mailed to Kevin Rathbun which never got a reply. Sounds as if they don’t want my business; and guess what? They will not get it again.
FYI: The corkage policy is two bottles per table regardless of the size of the party. Not too sure of the fee for each $20, $25, but two bottles whether a party of 1 or 10? Really?? Makes no sense.
There are way to many restaurants in Atlanta to put up with their arrogance.
Mark
October 14th, 2011
9:12 am
@sansho: I agree the stars are ridiculous, but what I think needs to happen is that John should abandon them altogether. Gene was smart enough to get “permission” to do so and it will ensure that people read the whole review, as you advocate, rather than just drive by, see 2 stars and say “I’ll skip that one” and miss a wonderful experience. Or, see four stars and support a restaurant with the absolutely abysmal corkage policy that Stacy documents. I was not aware of that, but that is outrageous. We do a periodic “boys’ night” and the six of us will go through at least three bottles from personal collections. I know where we’re NOT going now.
carla roqs
October 14th, 2011
9:31 am
all restaurants are not for everyone. looking at the spelling errors in some of the comments…all restaurants are not for everyone. also, john actually does post on his blogs pretty often, so, ummmm, @fred, you would not be surprised if you followed john daily. @sansho1? you said it in a nutshell.
KEAD
October 14th, 2011
11:48 am
I’ve been to Rathbun’s and to Rathbun’s Steak. I couldn’t give either one more than two stars, and I’d be more inclined to give Rathbun’s Steak one star. I found both locations loud, with middling service (and our server at Rathbun’s Steak came across as kind of obnoxious).
Honestly, the food at Rathbun’s was barely above average, in my opinion. I find it rather overrated. Not bad — not saying that — just that I’ve had so many meals in Atlanta that I’ve enjoyed more in terms of food and service quality. Sure, the blue cheese fondue with fries is tasty, but certainly not worth a drive to obtain.
Three stars would have been generous; four is excessive, in my opinion.
I guess I’m just surprised since I usually find myself nodding in agreement with your reviews. However, on Rathbun’s and Tomo, we diverge. S’okay. I’ll keep reading.
hewhocannotbenamed
October 14th, 2011
1:30 pm
CLAP!. . . CLAP!. . . CLAP!. . . thanks, John, for proving (once again) how good sweet it is to be on the culinary “A-list” in this city.
Native Atlantan
October 14th, 2011
1:58 pm
Over salted entrees, hefty prices and boorish service is spot on…for both Rathbun’s and Steak…gave them plenty of chances….never going back…too many other outstanding restaurants in Atlanta…well, actually Decatur for me, so no need to overspend at Kevin’s.
John Kessler
October 14th, 2011
2:14 pm
Thanks for the lively discussion. I appreciate hearing from all of you on this, even those of you who have choice words against this admittedly strange review. Have a great weekend, all.
georgia guy
October 14th, 2011
2:31 pm
Yes, it’s loud. But that’s clear in every review. It’s a buoyant, fun place, and sometimes that counts, especially when John admits it’s a sentimental favorite. And the food can miss, but when it’s on, it’s an Atlanta 4-star. Deal with it.
don
October 14th, 2011
4:41 pm
Commander’s Palace?
What an insult.
Sheroq
October 14th, 2011
5:27 pm
I love Rathbun’s and would go more often if I could afford it. i’ve only had great experiences there and i’ve been at least 6 times. I agree w/Mr. Kessler’s review, except for the alcohol. Diet Coke or Pelligrino is my brew. If you haven’t tried it, you should definitely give it a try. Oh well, I wish I could get in tonight.
Richard Smith
October 14th, 2011
11:00 pm
Snarky comments from folks who wouldn’t know a good restaurant from a Burger King. Kevin is a treasure, right there with Annie, Linton, Gary, Hugh, Carvel, Clifford and Robert. Right on, John. Sure, the corkage rules are a little tight, not like when he opened and the corkage was a glass for Kevin, but at least you can brown bag. Try that in Decatur, Sandy Springs, or Roswell. And Cliff has always been a pleasure.
Finediner
October 15th, 2011
12:17 am
As I read these comments, I can only wonder how many of you have actually dined at Rathbuns. Poor remarks by people who are judging a restaurant by one persons words. I just read this restaurants Yelp reviews (where the people actually are rated by how many posts they have written which gives them a lot more credibility than on this blog) and Rathbuns has mostly 4 or five star rating by people who have dined there. People here are complaining about ridiculous things like reservations (were you late for your reservation and could not get seated) or the corkage policy at a fine dining restaurant (did you bring in a case of wine). This restaurant seems to be busy because people love it and tell their friends. Would you prefer to dine at a restaurant that is empty and you can bring in your own wine and be late for your reservation? How long would that restaurant last?
Debra Ferros
October 15th, 2011
9:29 am
We went once. My aunt was in town visiting from NYC. She mentioned wanting to try Rathbun’s. We were underwhelmed from the moment we went to the bar to ‘try’ and order a cocktail from the rude bartender to once being seated at our table to consuming salty food. Everything from the appetizer to all our entrees at the table. It was as if someone took a salt box and poured it over every dish. Worst meal I’ve ever eaten. No joking. Will not return. Too many other choices in this great city of ours to trek down to a rather circumspect part of town right on the edge of the ghetto to eat a decent meal when there are great restaurants all over this city. I’m just saying…
Chip Shoulder
October 15th, 2011
11:58 am
I’ve had several dinners at Rathbun’s over the last 2 years, each more disappointing than the last. According to the AJC’s guide to deciphering the star system, a four star restaurant “defines excellence in local dining.” Note that the present tense is used: “defines,” not “defined.”
I would be astounded if John Kessler really believes that the Rathbun’s of today defines excellence in local dining. In this sentence from the last paragraph of his review, Kessler sounds like he is readying a technical defense of his decision to award Rathbun’s four-stars, like a politician running for office forced to explain a politically-unpopular vote: “it’s a special place that still defines one kind of greatness in Atlanta.” Oh. OK. four stars it is then.
Grasshopper
October 16th, 2011
9:19 am
Richard Smith — your nose is so brown.
Richard Smith
October 17th, 2011
12:58 pm
Grasshopper:
Spoken like a disgruntled failure who needs to resort to ad hominem attacks because you lack any substantive criticisms. Get a life.
carla roqs
October 17th, 2011
1:18 pm
congrats, john…you did it again. what’s next?
Grasshopper
October 17th, 2011
2:35 pm
A disguntled failure? Oh Richard…I’m apoplectic!
But your nose is still bown.
Richard Smith
October 17th, 2011
2:58 pm
I see you also have trouble spelling. Local Atlanta education, eh? So what’s your favorite Burger King?
John Kessler
October 17th, 2011
3:47 pm
Duuuuudes…back away from the snark pit…