I have long been meaning to make it back to Parish Foods & Goods — the Inman Park restaurant that went up during the building boom along Highland Ave. a few years ago.
Actually, it didn’t go up but in fact it was the last remaining structure from an 1890s pipe factory that once dominated the streetscape. This long, weathered brick building has good bones, and Parish uses the space well. The front entrance leads to the warmly funky top floor, which is a full-service restaurant. The back entrance takes you down to a market/cafe with a great communal table, sandwiches and salads, coffee and pastries, and lots of fun clutter to look at.
While I’ve enjoyed the cafe many times, I hadn’t been back to the restaurant since the opening chef Nick Melvin left (to go to Empire State South, and then Rosebud) and a new chef, Joe Schafer, took over. With Schafer, the restaurant subtly but definitively steered away from its Louisiana menu and toward a more general Southern one.
Our meal was a