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Beaver Creek Biscuit Company and Barbecue dining review, Austell

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As I pull into the gravel lot off Six Flags Road in Lithia Springs, the smell of hickory snakes through my air conditioning vents, filling the car with the mouth-watering aroma of smoke. I park among the line of industrial vans and trucks, and when I see the line of hungry workers backed out of the front door, my excitement grows.

Review by Jon Watson

Review by Jon Watson

These guys seem to know something that I don’t. I can’t help but wonder: How am I just now discovering this place?

Beaver Creek Biscuit Company and Barbecue is a restaurant with a split personality. By morning, it sells Southern breakfast fare and converts to a barbecue smokehouse for lunch.

Originally opened by Paul Turner in 1952, Turners Store began selling barbecue in the late 1980’s. Current owners John Ray and Terry Kirby regularly ate Turner’s barbecue, and when they purchased the business from him in 2002, they changed the name and added a country-style breakfast menu, but left the barbecue recipes alone.

The breakfast menu is straight forward and centers on the buttery biscuits from which they took their name. When I say that they offer Southern style breakfast, that encompasses all aspects, both good and bad. Butter rules breakfast at Beaver Creek, from the grits to the biscuits. The flavors are rich, but those of you looking for a light continental breakfast won’t find it here.

Pulled pork, as smoky as it gets (photo by Becky Stein)

Pulled pork, as smoky as it gets (photo by Becky Stein)

Though few of the breakfast items are that remarkable in their own right – it is mostly standard country-style fare – the chicken biscuit ($2.75) stands out. Deep-fried in peanut oil, the batter is light and crisp, and the meat is surprisingly moist and tender. The country-fried pork loin biscuit ($2.50) is another highlight, the patty pressed thin and coated with heavy breading.

As the breakfast crowd dies down around 11 a.m., Beaver Creek shifts into barbecue mode, and this is where it really shines.

The smokehouse behind the restaurant, little more than a cinder block shack, pumps the sweet smell of slowly smoking meat into the air starting from the wee hours of the morning. Using an entirely wood-fired pit smoker constructed from an old 500-gallon fuel tank, pork shoulders and brisket bathe in hickory and white oak smoke overnight, infusing the meats with a sweet smoky flavor.

Unless you specify otherwise, the pork plate ($6.85), comes as pulled then chopped pork with your choice of two sides. However, I strongly recommend asking that the cooks refrain from chopping the meat, as I find that the finely chopped pork can dry out faster. The pulled pork retains much more moisture. Both versions come with a hearty helping of crispy, smoky bark mixed into the meat, imparting so much flavor that very little sauce is needed, if any.

Another must-try is the rib plate ($9.85). The thick spare ribs, each with a visible pink smoke ring soaked into the meat, pull cleanly from the bone, but retain just the right amount of chew.

Any of the meats pair well with the mustard based “Seminole sauce” – supposedly named in honor of the Seminole Indians that taught Paul Turner everything he knows about barbecue. The thicker hot sauce packs a punch but lacks the tangy bite of the mustard based alternative.

Though the smoked meats are the highlight at Beaver Creek, the sides do not disappoint. The Brunswick stew ($2.90) stands out as one of the best in town. A near emulsion of chicken, pork, beef, corn, and tomatoes, it is hearty, meaty, and satisfying. A strong layer of smoke punctuates the baked beans ($1.55), swimming with generous chunks of pulled pork. The mustard heavy Southern style potato salad ($1.55) brings me back to my grandmother’s kitchen in Alabama.

The beef brisket plate ($7.35) is the only real letdown on the barbecue menu, but my complaint is one of style rather than quality. Though the flavor is good, Beaver Creek offers a pulled/shredded beef, rather than the thickly sliced brisket I prefer. However, fans of pulled beef may find it more enjoyable than I do.

So now the secret is out. This is old school barbecue done right, and if you consider yourself a ‘cue lover, Beaver Creek deserves a visit.

Beaver Creek Biscuit Company and Barbecue
1451 Six Flags Road, Austell. 770-739-0200

3stars5
Food: Country-style breakfast and barbecue
Service: Friendly and quick, everyone is treated like a regular.
Best Dishes: Pulled pork, spare ribs, Brunswick stew, and chicken biscuits.
Vegetarian Selections: Few and far between, aside from a few salads and sides.
Credit Cards: Visa, Mastercard, American Express
Hours: 5:30 a.m.- 5 p.m. Mondays-Fridays, 7 a.m.- 3 p.m. Saturdays
Children: Welcome
Parking: Ample
Reservations: No
Wheelchair Access: Yes
Smoking: No
Noise Level: Low in the main dining room, but the front area near the kitchen can get noisy
Patio: Covered outdoor patio with picnic tables
Takeout: Yes
ratings_key_febUSE

31 comments Add your comment

Reds

March 17th, 2011
9:50 am

There is just something awesome about a BBQ place that doesn’t charge $10 for a pork plate.

Typical Redneck

March 17th, 2011
10:17 am

The picture looks like a winner.

Becky

March 17th, 2011
11:45 am

The biscuits are good, except they fall apart while trying to eat them..I usually get the hot links on toast..Yummy..I have never tried the BBQ there, even though I always think I will..

The employees are always very friendly and the service is great..

Southern Boy.

March 17th, 2011
12:15 pm

The food there is great. The place is kinda a dump, so you know it has to be good bbq. Brunswick stew is better than most. You can get a bbq salad that is good and healthy.

Southern Boy.

March 17th, 2011
12:17 pm

……..and they have this cashier girl that is Southern HOT……….

Bubba

March 17th, 2011
12:33 pm

Fresh Air BBQ in Jackson, GA

Since 1929

The mother church of BBQ in Georgia

Bluestreak

March 17th, 2011
3:16 pm

RE: Fresh Air BBQ

And I try to worship there as often as I pass by. :) Some of the best Q in the South.

bbqbudha

March 17th, 2011
3:19 pm

you all have no idea what real bbq is. I know what real bbq is…

Southern Boy.

March 17th, 2011
3:42 pm

Budha is a yankee. An imposter. Doesn’t know how to spell “y’all.”

Becky

March 17th, 2011
3:53 pm

My husband and his co workers love this place!!!! The chicken biscuit and sandwich is so yummy!!!!

GRIT from FLA

March 17th, 2011
4:09 pm

Southern Boy – the best bbq places I’ve ever eaten at were all “kinda dumpy.”

Southern Boy.

March 17th, 2011
4:15 pm

GRIT, I was not being sarcastic. I agree with you.

bbqbudha

March 17th, 2011
4:38 pm

No need to be rude, Redneck Southern Boy… I simply said I know real bbq is all…You my friend do not…

PTC DAWG

March 17th, 2011
6:21 pm

I’ll say one thing about BBQbudha…he’s rude.

lisa

March 17th, 2011
7:04 pm

BEST COLESLAW IN THE WORLD !

jordan

March 17th, 2011
7:55 pm

gggaga

March 17th, 2011
8:03 pm

yall need to start puting a hamburger patty on yalls biscutes and you would make a killin

gggaga

March 17th, 2011
8:03 pm

im eatin one write now

bbqbudha

March 18th, 2011
8:21 am

ptc dawg, how was I being rude by saying I know bbq…You my friend do not know what rude is unless you look in the mirror…

Post-it

March 18th, 2011
10:42 am

Beaver Creek rocks. We sometimes sneak out of work and drive all the way from Buckhead for their Seminole sauce.

And bbqbudha… please tell us what real bbq is. I’m betting you think it comes out of a crock pot.

Douglasville patron

March 18th, 2011
12:31 pm

Have you checked out the new Three Dollar Cafe at Arbor Place Mall? It is killer! New favorite in the area.

Southern Boy.

March 18th, 2011
12:53 pm

Bbqbudha HAS to be a yankee…………..and a liberal, I’m sure.

Becky ((first one)

March 18th, 2011
12:53 pm

@Douglasville patron…Haven’t been to that one yet..The only problem is why do you think nothing last long in that one spot?

@southern boy..yes, it is sort of a dump, but you are right, that means the food is good..

ladyv8er

March 18th, 2011
1:13 pm

We eat here at least 3-4 times a week and enjoy their biscuits, breakfast plates and esp sausage gravy biscuits. This place isn’t just a good lunch/dinner eat for BBQ, but a great breakfast stop too… the line to the door every morning is a great indicator!

Douglasville patron

March 18th, 2011
1:50 pm

Enter your comments here

Douglasville patron

March 18th, 2011
1:58 pm

the others were not what should have been in there, or were poor operators. Quaker Stink and Lube? Everyone thought that was a car service operation and not a restaurant. This one of all, should be a winner. Sports Illustrated at one point had them as one of the top ten sports bars in the country.

Post-it

March 18th, 2011
3:33 pm

Three Dollar Cafe?! I thought we were talking about great bbq here today. Not flat screen TVs and draft Miller Lite.

Conservative

March 19th, 2011
10:39 am

I know plenty of liberals who know, understand, and love barbecue. It’s a great common ground for all kinds of people. Even a few yankees figure it out. Beaver Creek is wonderful.

MimosaM

March 20th, 2011
2:49 pm

I need BBQ help. I live off Roswell Rd, N. Buckhead. Where is the nearest and best Barbecue joint? I also prefer a place which offers beer.

There is a real shortage of affordabel Southern food in the Buckhead Sandy Springs area. There was a Ribs place right near where i live but it wasn’t good and folded a few months ago.

Sandy Springs

March 20th, 2011
11:01 pm

It’s very near you and you don’t even know it. Pig ‘N’ Chick in the Fountain Oaks Kroger Shopping Center on Roswell Road, just above the Buckhead-Sandy Springs line. John Kessler’s headline about it: “Barbecue So Good It’ll Make You Go Oink.” It sells beer, a real plus. The ribs place you mentioned was the once-great Ribs, Etc. That is, great back when John Pomeroy owned it years ago. Its loss is deeply mourned.

MimosaM

March 22nd, 2011
3:03 am

Thank you, Sandy Springs. I’ll give Pig N Chick another try, since I live nearby. A friend had brought some ribs from there that were quite gobby with fat. I Ribs, Etc had declined before I’d moved to this area.

Roswell Rod has spaces for rent. I’d like to see affordable Southern food and easy-going French bistros open up..