The Fox Trot Center has, at some point or other, been home to a package store, a Somali sweets shop, a Jamaican restaurant, a tailor, a coin laundry, two places of worship (one called Praise Temple, another called Liberty Hall House of God), a barber shop, a convenience food mart, a community center and an Iraqi bread bakery.
This shopping complex has a Decatur address but is in that part of DeKalb County where Clarkston and Stone Mountain also converge in a mashup of many such strip malls that seem too down on their luck to merit renovation but still in good enough shape to avoid the wrecker’s ball.
You could call this area, just outside the Perimeter and north of Memorial Drive, a no-man’s land. But don’t. It’s an everyman’s land, a place that thrums to a world beat — Caribbean, East African, West African, Central Asian and Middle Eastern, mostly, but there are likely other international seasonings in this melting pot.
It is the perfect place to meet Nazifa Garib. You can find Nazifa’s Bakery at the far end of the Fox Trot Center. You can recognize the shop because there are usually cars pulling up regularly in front. Or, if you go before midday, just follow your nose to the smells of yeast and flour.
“Hello!” calls Nazifa, when you walk in. Her short, dark hair is tied in a kerchief, her eyes round and mirthful, her mouth pink with lipstick. “How did you hear about us? Would you like some flatbread? It’s $3 for four loaves; you can’t beat the price.”
She is, in her uniquely charming way, all over you — with a personality that fills her plain shop. Shelves stacked with plastic-wrapped bags of flatbread line one side of this small room that seems to have once been a cafe. There are some plastic-cloth-covered tables and a deli case, but the provisions here are the most basic: bread and bottled water.
But Nazifa sells it hard, and you bite. She hands you a package of bread, each loaf as big as a pizza crust, light in your hands, bubbly, floppy, still warm from the oven. “This is Iraqi bread,” she says. “We call it nan.”
“We call it nan, too,” says another customer, who identifies himself as a Kurd. Before long Nazifa is listing all the countries from Iran to India that eat some form of nan. She has customers who drive every week from Augusta to load up, Pakistani restaurants and Afghani markets around town that stock her product.
Nazifa excuses herself to talk to Baydaa Aburahman, a woman working in the small kitchen. Around her are bags of flour, steel work tables, an industrial dough mixer and a large, round tandoor oven. Aburahman bakes the bread on the walls of the tandoor, and when it first comes out it is crispy, crackly and likely to figure among the best things you’ve ever eaten. Nazifa will tell you how hard she’s worked on the bread to get the stretchiness, the saltiness, the sourness of it just right.
So, here’s the funny thing about Nazifa. She isn’t Iraqi. She’s Bosnian.
When I go back to interview her — and sit down with cups of tea and hot bread with za’atar olive oil and herb dip — Nazifa, 50, tells me her life story. A bookkeeper by trade, she worked in Baghdad as a young woman in the 1980s, before the Gulf War. “Back then it was a place of opportunity, with good jobs,” she said, particularly so for professional European Muslims such as herself.
She returned to Bosnia in the early ’90s and faced the worst of that country’s civil war, speaking of harrowing experiences that she asked me not to relate in this story. She helped protect the lives of two small children at one point, and after decades reconnected with them both on Facebook.
She arrived in the United States in 1996 as a war refugee. Her transition to American life wasn’t the smoothest. Within two years of arriving here, she was diagnosed with advanced ovarian cancer, which required extensive abdominal surgery.
She got a job in financial services, connected with Atlanta’s burgeoning Muslim community, and married an Iraqi-American who, as it turns out, had a bakery.
Nazifa first started helping out at the bakery, then she had half ownership in it. Eventually, when her marriage ended, she took over the bakery and changed its name, from Alosta Bakery to Nazifa’s Bakery.
Nazifa says that in her first year of sole ownership, sales have gone up 30 percent. Now she is looking for ways to expand beyond traditional customers from the nan-eating world. Which, as the crow flies, is close.
A stall at the Decatur Farmers Market earned her praise but it came to a quick end after another merchant there complained she was taking away too many of his customers. (Market manager Duane Marcus confirms this.) This season she may try a stall at the Peachtree Road Farmers Market.
I’m predicting huge success. You meet Nazifa once, and you want to like her bread. Then you taste it, and you love it.
20 comments Add your comment
Bakery Equipment | KITCHEN EQUIPMENT SUPPLY
March 6th, 2011
8:13 am
[...] to buy Bakery [...]
Matt
March 6th, 2011
8:15 am
This story makes me want to drive to her store right now and support her business! How the heck can the Decatur Farmers Market allow themselves to be bullied and throw this lady out? It’s called capitalism, the fit and strong (or the better bread maker) survive.
Andisheh Nouraee
March 6th, 2011
11:18 am
As a carb addict of Iranian heritage, I’m vouching for how delicious this bread is.
I’ve stopped in 3 of the past 4 weekends to buy some. It’s delicious by itself, with any cheese (try a sharp feta) or with tomatoes and basil.
Last night for dinner, we had some of her bread with chicken breast chopped up and sauteed in Jamaican jerk seasoning. Instead of cooking a side item like rice or pasta with a meat, just serve a dish on top of her bread.
Thanks for doing this story, John. Even though she’s Bosnian via Iraq, the bread is my favorite Persian things in Atlanta.
M T L
March 6th, 2011
1:05 pm
A wonderful piece! Please list a street address!
imjustduckie
March 6th, 2011
5:10 pm
Agree with Matt! How can the Decatur Farmers Market throw out a vendor that competes in a (supposedly) open marketplace? Seems like the other one should have either stepped up the game or left. Now I know to skip the Decatur Farmers Market b/c the policy is apparently more like a kindergarden class where everyone gets to try, not a collection of the best of the best in the city. Can’t be sure it hasn’t happened to other good products as well – so why bother going.
nanlover
March 6th, 2011
8:06 pm
I love Nazifa’s Bakery,just wonderful bread no additive and chemicals,@MTL,the address is
3711 N.Decatur Rd tel#687-698-8871 ,I hope that helps and thank you Mr.Kessler,I knew she was from Bosnia but thank you for the brief story.
ted
March 6th, 2011
8:08 pm
I think y’all would be surprised at how much cattiness and infighting apparently goes on at our local farmers’ markets. Everyone trying to get their own little protected niche.
Lisa
March 7th, 2011
7:55 am
There’s definitely a dark side to the sunny farmers markets.
Her bread is wonderful. She would do well at Peachtree but I think they will only allow one bread vendor and they have Holeman&Finch. The new Grant Park Market could be a possibility.
Reds
March 7th, 2011
8:33 am
Great story. Nan is soooooo good.
Gene Lee
March 7th, 2011
9:59 am
Is it weird that I want to eat those bubbly semi-raw nan pieces sticking to the side of the tandoor?
Refugee Women's Network
March 7th, 2011
10:17 am
I’m proud to say that our organization, Refugee Women’s Network, helped support Nazifa’s enterprise with a micro loan. Her story is truly compelling–and there are many more women like her who have the skills, the drive, and the experience to be great entrepreneurs in this country, but require a bit of capital and technical advice to get them on the road to success.
duane
March 7th, 2011
10:18 am
Ms. Garib was never officially a part of the Decatur Farmers Market.
One Wednesday in the winter of 2009 she was brought to the market by a
man who is market founder Greg Coleson’s neighbor. He claimed that
Greg told him I would give her a space in the market so I did that
day. When I spoke to Greg after the market he said that was not the
case. He told the man to see me about the possibility of her
participating in the market. We require potential vendors to complete
an application that is reviewed and a decision is made as to whether
or not the applicant meets our requirements and is a good fit for the
market.
Weekday markets in general are not nearly as well attended as Saturday
markets and during the winter customers are especially scarce. Our
vendors depend on market for their living. Even a few lost sales hurt.
After the market at witch Ms. Garib showed up our long time bread
vendor told me his sales were off as a result of her selling her
bread. When she came back the next week she was allowed to sell her
bread and she was informed we would not be able to provide her with a
space at the market.
Had she followed procedure and submitted an application it would not
have been approved. Our market focuses on products made with organic,
local ingredients which she does not use. We make every effort to
insure that all our vendors are successful. Our market is also
physically small. We only have 15 spaces for non-farmer vendors. We
select vendors so as to provide a diverse mix of products for our
customers. We get lots of applications from vendors who want to sell
similar products to those already offered by our vendors. Our customer
base is just too small to make it possible for us to have competing
vendors.
Duane Marcus
Market Manager
The Decatur Farmers Market
K
March 7th, 2011
1:20 pm
Yeah, that competition thing is so overrated.
Kar
March 7th, 2011
2:07 pm
In general, I believe breads and cereals are an excuse for the toppings, be they butter or a double hamburger.
But Nam is basically like manna for me. I look forward to stopping at her new stall.
Reds
March 7th, 2011
3:22 pm
@ Gene — Not at all.
Kar
March 8th, 2011
10:03 am
Duane, that’s a crock but it’s your loss. At least she’ll be able to sell her products elsewhere.
Lorenzo
March 8th, 2011
2:29 pm
“Our market focuses on products made with organic,
local ingredients which she does not use.” Duane, I can think of nothing more “local” and “organic” than the labor she employs.
Sophie's Choice
March 8th, 2011
6:47 pm
Yeah, I’m thinking Mr. Marcus’ explanation sounds like so much poppycock to me. I’m thinking the odds are very slim indeed that the complaining “regular” baker at the DFM doesn’t actually buy wheat grown in Georgia…so I’m guessing somebody’s covering a pal’s @ss. Which is fine– just be up front about it, instead of trotting out that BS response & expecting it to wash.
Jay Son
March 8th, 2011
8:29 pm
“Had she followed procedure and submitted an application it would not have been approved. Our market focuses on products made with organic, local ingredients which she does not use.”
Yeah, just like that “competition” thing, that TASTE thing is way overrated too. She doesn’t use “organic and unbleached, unbromated flours” like Magnolia Bread Company does, so her bread doesn’t taste like you’re licking a cow’s dirty bottom.
Shame on her for making bread that actually tastes good. I can see why Magnolia wanted her gone.
Sophie's Choice
March 8th, 2011
11:02 pm
So, Magnolia uses local flour from locally-grown wheat? I’m betting not, which is only one of the reasons Mr. Marcus’ explanation rings hollow. This just smacks of protectionist tactics, and if DFM’s management thinks people are too dense to see through it, they’ve got another think coming.