11:15 am January 28, 2011, by John Kessler
I often almost like chicken livers. They’re creamy, rich, full of flavor…and just a little too bitter.
Cooks have many tricks for removing the bitterness, such as salting the livers or soaking them overnight in milk. I suspect the best trick is to start with fresh livers.
And I suspect that’s why the chicken livers at Sprig — reviewed in today’s paper — were so fantastic. Chef Robert Elliott uses large livers from Springer Mountain chickens and then fries them until they are crunchy outside and creamy pink inside. No one at our table — including one semi-squeamish teenager — could resist.
I also wonder if by pairing the livers with other bitter and sharp ingredients — endive, arugula, blue cheese — it let the sweet flavor of the meat take center stage.
Are there other great chicken livers around town? The Colonnade? Davio’s Northern Italian Steakhouse? I’ve liked them well enough at these places, but nothing like the version at Sprig.
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