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Wong Kee BBQ and Peking Duck review, Norcross

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In 2008 husband and wife Tony On and Van Do opened a small mom-and-pop restaurant in the Hong Kong Supermarket shopping center in Norcross.

On was born in Vietnam but is of Cantonese heritage. Do, whom On met five years ago while living in Atlantic City, is from Saigon, Vietnam. They are proud parents of a 4-year-old daughter who will steal glances your way while watching the restaurant’s television.

Review by Gene Lee

Review by Gene Lee

Wong Kee BBQ and Peking Duck, typical of most Cantonese barbecue joints, features a front window case where On displays his roasted birds and slabs of pork. You can order a quick box of meat to go.

But you might stay for an affordable dish of barbecue plated on rice or one of the many other dishes on a menu worth exploring. Some are better than others, but none disappointed.

Husband and wife shuttle back and forth from the kitchen, alternating between cooking, serving and chatting with diners.

During one visit On disappeared into the kitchen to prepare our order of house fried rice ($7.99). It was a garlic-infused flavor bomb chock full of pork, shrimp and chicken. The rice was liberally seasoned with salt and pepper, and lightly charred onions scattered throughout added a welcome dimension of flavor.

I made my way through most of the restaurant’s barbecue. The best is roast pork and duck. As soon as you place an order, On goes to work with a large cleaver. He delivers thunderous blows clean through the bones down to his cutting board, and reverberations can be felt anywhere in the room.

The roast pork ($9.50) is a hedonistic dish of skin-on chunks of heavily marbled pig. It is roasted to the point where the outer layer of skin browns and blisters, developing air bubbles that suggest a textural union of Pop Rocks and pork rinds. Underneath that layer is fat, then tender meat, then a little more fat.

wongkee

Peking Duck (photo by Becky Stein)

The duck, on the other hand, has been almost completely rendered of its fat. A thin and crispy layer of roasted skin is the only thing separating the rich meat underneath.

Don’t miss the restaurant’s Peking duck ($18.99 for a half order). After On hacks up the duck, Do debones it in the kitchen and plates it alongside puffy steamed buns, scallions, cucumber, celery and a sweet bean sauce. It’s all used to formulate mini sandwiches you won’t soon forget.

The one other dish that beckons is the braised oxtail soup ($8.99). It’s a large serving, slow-cooked for hours and rendered of its fat. The milky broth, subtly flavored with cooking wine, contains inch-thick sections of oxtail bone rife with meat and gelatinous tendon. The flavor may seem mild, but this dish is notable for its nutritional value, thanks to the abundant levels of protein and collagen.

Wong Kee BBQ and Peking Duck — with mom, pop and those unforgettable duck buns — makes a solid addition to the Atlanta dining scene.

WONG KEE BBQ AND PEKING DUCK
5495 Jimmy Carter Blvd., Suite A3, Norcross, 678-205-0105
2stars5Food: Cantonese-style casual barbecue, including rice and noodle dishes
Service: Good; communication could be a slight issue
Best dishes: Peking duck, braised oxtail soup, house fried rice
Vegetarian selections: A variety of vegetable-based soups, noodles and rice dishes. There are selections of tofu dishes as well.
Credit cards: Visa, MasterCard, Discover
Hours: 10 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Mondays-Sundays
Children: Yes
Parking: In lot
Reservations: No
Wheelchair access: Yes
Smoking: No
Noise level: Moderate
Patio: No
Takeout: Yes
RatingsKey_3

7 comments Add your comment

Sebastian

January 21st, 2011
11:12 am

[...] This post was mentioned on Twitter by Foodie Buddha and Dan Aldridge, John Kessler. John Kessler said: Wong Kee BBQ and Peking Duck review, Norcross http://bit.ly/eFlHz6 [...]

Annaportabella

January 21st, 2011
4:17 pm

Lon Yu (by Johnny’s Pizza and Engels) in has the best duck in Norcross hands down.

[...] Brad wrote an interesting post today Here’s a quick excerpt About Food and More with John Kessler. Discuss Atlanta restaurant reviews and food news with John and the AJC’s dining team. Food and More with John Kessler RSS feed. The Folks Behind Our Reviews & News … [...]

BuHi

January 24th, 2011
2:53 pm

Nice review, Gene – This place always hooks me with the window display.

A bit off-topic tho…. I am truly baffled by the AJC star ratings. It seems like you really like the restaurant, food and the owners. Yet it merits 2 stars (a worthy addition to the neighborhood). Understanding that it will never (attempt to) achieve 5 stars (sets the standard for fine dining…), is the star rating even relevant? Just curious.

Gene Lee

January 24th, 2011
4:07 pm

@BuHi – I mentioned I tried all the bbq, I’ve had better elsewhere on the other two they offer but couldn’t write full descriptions of all of that in w/o losing some real estate. In regards to the ones I highlighted, they are great but not above and beyond other places serving them.

Additionally to award a 3 star or better, we have to think if the place is really worth the drive for not just specific readers, but all readers in general. Would I personally make the trek for Wong Kee? Sure. But like a lot of Cantonese BBQ, the place is small, a bit chaotic when the bbq chopping occurs and not really what I would call a destination spot. The restaurant is tiny, and more equipped for take-out and informal dining rather than ambient date nights.

Now if Wong Kee is knock-my-socks-off Cantonese BBQ, I may have been more inclined to award another star. I imagine you would have sensed the heightened enthusiasm in the review.

Thanks for your input.

BuHi

January 26th, 2011
1:50 pm

Thanks for clarifying.