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Behind the Review: Snarking about spring rolls

Davio's trademarked spring rolls (Photos by Becky Stein)

Davio's trademarked spring rolls (Photo by Becky Stein)

When Davio’s Northern Italian Steakhousereviewed in this week’s Go Guide — sent out its press materials, no one could help but notice the registered trademark next to one of the menu items — the Philly Cheese Steak Spring Rolls. It didn’t take too long for folks in the local restaurant and food writing communities to start wagging their tongues.

“What is that about?” we all wondered with a snicker.

Well, it’s this: A chef at the Philadelphia branch of Davio’s developed the recipe, and they were a great enough success that owner Steve DiFillippo decided to package them. There are now four varieties of spring rolls on the menu, with trademarks on two. Locally, the spring rolls are available at Costco, as the waiters are instructed to tell customers who ask.

For the first several weeks Davio’s actually displayed the boxes in the entrance foyer,  which definitely seemed to be an incongruent display of marketing in a very expensive restaurant. But they have since removed them.

7 comments Add your comment

[...] This post was mentioned on Twitter by ajcdinecritic, John Kessler. John Kessler said: Behind the Review: Snarking about spring rolls http://bit.ly/bADuo8 [...]

RK

October 22nd, 2010
12:42 pm

When I think high-end Italian or steakhouse, I don’t think spring rolls (or cheesesteaks), so maybe their theme is “incongruity”.

Frank

October 22nd, 2010
1:31 pm

I heard Cartier is selling their jewelry and watches at Costco, too. This place is as Italian as PF Changs.

KikiRodmcgua

October 22nd, 2010
7:09 pm

LOL For 42 a steak. There better be nothing available to purchase at Cosco. Jeez

kayla

October 22nd, 2010
9:06 pm

John, I loved your review of this restaurant! We rarely venture outside the 30030 to do anything, much less dine at a mall restaurant, but I felt like the people you described in the restaurant were very familiar. And some of your descriptions…”…a black pool of balsamic-port treacle that looks straight from the BP cookbook.” Priceless!!

Edward

October 26th, 2010
3:05 pm

Milltown Arms in Cabbagetown serves up Cabbagetown Rolls, corned beef and sauerkraut eggrolls with a side of thousand island dressing. Sounds nasty but tastes delicious. Perfect drunken bar food.

Chuckles™

October 27th, 2010
12:57 am

I’m not a lawyer, but…

Good luck with their attempted copyright on spring rolls. You can copyright the name Big Mac, but the sandwich has roots in excess of thirty YEARS before that gent in Pittsburgh made it for McDonalds. You can’t copyright food.

What a waste of lawyer time. Make them good, make folks want them & keep the quality consistent & the availability constant. Forget the protectionism. It will, ultimately, be useless.