Now that I’m back on the reviewing beat, I’ve been trying to pop into some of the many restaurants I don’t know at all to see if they are places I should re-review in print.
C&S Seafood & Oyster Bar is a locally owned and operated restaurant that evinces the swagger of a high-end chain. The booths are deep, the banquettes plush, and the wall sconces glow against lustrous wood paneling. You know the martinis here will be good, the porcelain solid and the service full of dinner-house flourish. Think of it as a step up from McCormick & Schmick’s and a step down from the echt-cruise line gloss of the Oceanaire Seafood Room.
The restaurant is located in the small, Kroger-anchored Riverview Village Shopping Center that has become one of southern Cobb’s dining destinations. In addition to C&S, it holds Tomo Japanese Restaurant (my current favorite destination for sushi), Taverna Fiorentina, Thai Diner and Olive Bistro.
The menu is a long, old-fashioned bill of fare that offers daily fish and oyster specials, steaks and chops, pastas and salads and all kinds of appetizers. It’s expensive, but that doesn’t keep the room from attracting a lively crowd early on a weeknight evening.
As I was dining alone, I really didn’t get to make much of a dent in the menu. I can’t really say I loved the fillet of halibut ($30, above) that I ordered. It came steamed in a pistou mussel broth in which bobbed bits of vegetal matter and a few shelled mussels. I found the strong basil flavor of the broth underscored the fishy pungency of the mussel liquor, and there wasn’t enough acid for counterbalance. The halibut had also spent too long in the broth and had a dry, parching texture. I think a fattier fish, such as Chilean sea bass, black cod or even salmon, would have fared better.
That said, I did love this bar snack (right) — a bowlful of parmesan chive popcorn ($4) that had me licking my greasy fingers. And I found the service top notch, as well it should be at these prices.
I’m thinking next visit will include popcorn, a martini, a few oysters and then maybe I’ll think about dinner.
What did I miss here? Help me figure out the next meal…