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Food and More with John Kessler

Behind the Review: Woodfire Grill, Atlanta

12:31 pm September 3, 2010, by John Kessler

Credit: the fantabulous Becky Stein

Credit: the fantabulous Becky Stein

With this post I’m debuting a weekly feature on the Food and More blog. “Behind the Review” will delve a little deeper into some aspects of the review that didn’t make it into print. Please feel free to ask me any questions about what I tried, what happened during the meals and why I made certain observations.

Woodfire Grill was the first big-deal Atlanta restaurant I’ve reviewed in years, and I knew that a lot of attention would be paid to the star rating. In my mind, the rating and the written review are completely different things; I think they should jibe, but I’m not going to write to justify a rating. That said, the star rating usually is obvious to me after I’ve eaten at the restaurant a couple of times.

Based on the two meals I’ve had at Woodfire Grill, I found it a three-star restaurant that will be a four-star restaurant once chef Kevin Gillespie matures and broadens his approach to tasting menus. I do think he’s the brightest new talent on the scene, and I have high hopes for this restaurant. It is one of the last bastions of exciting, multi-course menus in the city.

Did the review reflect the rating? I thought so: the food was mostly very good, occasionally excellent and occasionally lacking. There was also a serious service issue. But as always, I’ll get comments that the rating was too stingy or too generous.

Here are some details I couldn’t fit into the review:

  • The salmon in my tasting menu was seared dry on one side and wobbly raw on the other. I liked it, but I’ve had versions of this preparation I’ve liked better. Called “cuit à l’unilatéral” in French, this method takes advantage of the high oil content in salmon to diffuse the heat. When done ideally right, there’s a gentle gradation from cooked to raw, almost to the point that it looks raw on top, but flakes and almost tastes of cooked fish.
  • I tried one of the house cocktails and it was tooth-achingly sweet. I couldn’t take more than a sip, and they immediately whisked it away with no charge.
  • That long pause for risotto, which we ordered as a middle course to share, might have been 20 or 30 minutes. I wonder if the kitchen is set up to handle the à la carte menu. I also wonder if they screwed up the first risotto and remade it.
  • The house-made breads are all dense and ample. Just like with the menu, I was looking for something a little lighter in the basket — brioche, a biscuit, or a crusty loaf with an airy crumb. I also found it odd that the raisin-nut bread has only the whipped herb butter to spread on it.
  • There’s an amazing mint-chocolate ice cream sandwich for dessert, which is served with a warm strawberry jam.
  • The portions are a bit small. I found that all the courses added up to enough food, but I worry that some folks will make the “need a cheeseburger” comment after dining from the à la carte menu.

  • Print

28 comments Add your comment

Son of Puerquito

September 3rd, 2010
12:41 pm

John, I notice that you seem to actually care about diacritical marks in foreign languages. Is there a reason you did not mention (maybe you did not notice) all the errors and/or omission on the wine list?

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September 3rd, 2010
12:49 pm

[...] This post was mentioned on Twitter by ajcdinecritic, John Kessler. John Kessler said: Behind the Review: Woodfire Grill http://bit.ly/cP09wF [...]

Tweets that mention Behind the Review: Woodfire Grill | Food and More with John Kessler -- Topsy.com

September 3rd, 2010
1:23 pm

[...] This post was mentioned on Twitter by John Kessler, Leslie Brenner. Leslie Brenner said: RT @jdkess: Behind the Review — a new weekly feature that I blatantly ripped off the DMN. (thanks, @lesbren!) http://bit.ly/aNkwxK [...]

OTP

September 3rd, 2010
1:31 pm

Thank you, Mr. Kessler, for adding these comments. You have improved an already-enjoyable review. Your additional insight is much appreciated and sharing your thoughts on the star rating was indeed very helpful!

ziza

September 3rd, 2010
2:09 pm

this is a GREAT new feature! thanks.

bob

September 3rd, 2010
2:15 pm

gotta love Becky Steins work!

RK

September 3rd, 2010
2:34 pm

I’ve eaten there once, and it happened to be a group of 20 the week of the finale — total coincidence. I found the portions on the 3-course menu to be extremely miserly, but would never base an opinion on a large-party setting.

sansho1

September 3rd, 2010
9:25 pm

Service is a tricky thing to assess, as it can vary significantly within a restaurant. A chef who inspects each plate of food as it goes out can reasonably guarantee consistency of product, but quality control can be a little shakier when it comes to individual servers. A little clumsiness, or the occasional weak explanation for delayed food, can slip by unnoticed by the chef, but can have a huge impact on the experience.

That’s a long way of saying that JK’s Woodfire service issues are not necessarily endemic, as I’m sure he’d agree. I’ve been telling people for a year now that the best service I’ve ever had in a restaurant, bar none, was at Woodfire.

BlondeHoney

September 3rd, 2010
10:22 pm

Thanks, JK, I find these additional comments insightful, especially about the small portions. Great job all around! :)

kmb

September 3rd, 2010
10:29 pm

“The portions are a bit small.” John, I had a duck entree for which the menu stated duck breast served with duck egg. It came with half of a duck breast and half of a soft boil duck egg. What did he do with the other half? Nevertheless, his entrees are anything but half-priced. For this restaurant to succeed over the long haul, not only must its quality be maintained but so must its having a reasonable (I didn’t say necessarily cheap) pricing structure for what is being served. Only someone on an expense account or someone who thinks aspirin at a hospital is a real bargain will be its repeat customers. It will be a shame for Atlanta to lose this asset because of the check at Woodfire Grill being either a wallet biopsy or a stress test on your credit card. Furthermore, Kevin is heavy on the pork. It makes ordering a tasting menu for which there are no substitutions difficult for someone who doesn’t eat pork. In view of the needless mark up in the cost of a meal there, I think your three star rating is reasonable.

Fred

September 3rd, 2010
11:23 pm

If I were to rate a blog as John rates a restaurant I would give this one a zero star rating. John just throws his crap out there and rarely if ever responds to the comments. That isn’t what a blog is. WHich would explain why there are so few comments on a particularly well thought out and well written “blog.’ He shows some of the arrogance of that Meridith hyphen named chick who used to be the food critic here at AJC who’s credibility was shot after she gave high starrred ratings to people who catered her wedding basically for free.

I had vowed to neither read nor respond to this so called “blog” but the subject matter and the headline of a “review” both piqued my interest and masked the fact that JK had done it.

i’m surprised at the low rating Woodfire received on one hand but not on the other. On one hand, I think it’s kind of a “payback” to Gillespie for not liking the Korean place that JK took him to on the “celebrity chef” night out they had a few weeks ago. But on the other hand, I can see his point.

As someone who went to Woodfire BEFORE the whole reality TV thing, I can see a difference. The first few times we went, (my wife and I) the chef’s tastings really seemed special. Like it was prepared for each table. The last time we went (a month or two ago) my wife made the comment that the chef’s tasting was like an unannounced item on the menu. We knew what each course was going to be because the folks at the table next to us who had been seated before us had the same thing. We got exactly what they got. I guess things change when volume goes up. It didn’t feel “special’ anymore.

Originally when we went and got the “wine tasting” to go with our “chef tasting” Nicholas Quiñones came to the table and talked to us before selecting the wine. The last time, I can’t say that I even saw him in the place.

I’m conflicted about Woodfire. But one thing I know for sure, this ain’t no damn blog. On a blog the “author” interacts with his readers, that don’t happen here. I don’t even know why they have a comment section on this so called blog. Just write your stuff John and let it stand at that since you have no interest in talking to the folks who ultimately pay your salary.

I’m STILL leaning though towards the theory that JK got pissed that they didn’t kiss his butt enough since they knew who he was and and Kevin didn’t like the Korean place John took him to (which IMHO is awesome) so he nailed them in the review.

But those are just my thoughts…….

Alex

September 4th, 2010
12:34 am

I don’t see how brioche or biscuits would be a lighter bread…

Dick

September 4th, 2010
10:45 am

I thought the creative menu and preparation of food was better when Michael Touhy owned the restaurant.

Son of Puerquito

September 4th, 2010
1:03 pm

I for one agree witht he three star review (although the tone suggests a higher rating).
However, I do feel Mr. Kessler (and other Atlanta critics) have a soft spot for Chef Congeniality. His tattoos are news worthy, talking ice cream is news worthy, rumors of a bbq place is news worthy, but when KG starts peddling purina beggin’ strips they all go silent.

http://eater.com/archives/2010/09/02/mighty-equal-fallen-kevin-gillespie-hawks-dog-food.php

I do not believe any local blogger has picked up the story. To me that is a celar sign that Mr. Kessler and his Atlanta collegues cannot be objective in their restaurant reviews.

JayW

September 4th, 2010
4:32 pm

The review is dead on, and the blog entry is very helpful.

Woodfire currently is a good, but not great, restaurant. There is no shame in calling something “good.” That’s a compliment. But one must be honest. Compared to other restaurants on a nationwide basis, which I think is the only sensible way to review restaurants with Woodfire’s aspirations, it doesn’t deserve more than three stars. I hope that it does someday. We would all benefit.

And I have no idea what the insane rambling above about “kissing butt” and the “Korean place” has to do with anything. The review is accurate the the conclusions are justified. Period.

John Kessler

September 4th, 2010
5:17 pm

Alex — lighter in the mouth, if not necessarily in the fat content.
SoP — Thought about a post on the dog food commercial, but worried it would be too much Kevin with the other two posts. Again, I think we write about him a lot because readers respond. The wine list could use a copy editor, but it’s a good one.
Fred — sorry you’ve soured on the blog. As I’ve told you before, I try to make a sweep of the comments once a day, but sometimes miss something. I’m a lousy multitasker. Take it, leave it, deal with it. I never took Kevin to any restaurant, but followed along on a trip organized by chef Nick Oltarsh. I think this is the article you’re referring to:
http://blogs.ajc.com/food-and-more/2010/03/30/chefs-night-out-with-tom-colicchio/

Dear Fred

September 4th, 2010
9:46 pm

stop it with the drama and gossip and innuendo. take the reviews for what they are worth, and if you have anything helpful to add (ie something that would help me enjoy this restaurant more) please share it.

otherwise, shut your pie hole

Ron Martin
Sandy Springs

Son of Puerquito

September 4th, 2010
11:13 pm

I prefer cake hole…

jw

September 5th, 2010
8:01 am

I recently dined at Woodfire and had a lot of the same dishes as JK. My wife got the 5 course tasting and I got the 7. They were hesitant to consider that. It looks like you got the 5 course and added an entree in the middle. Personally, I would prefer they give a couple of options for a course or 3. That way a couple that shares bites can experience more of what the kitchen has to offer. You are almost forced into the tasting menu with the limited a la carte selections. I find your 3 star rating quite generous.

Fred, Nic can be hard to spot sometimes. On our visit I mistook him for a busboy more than once.

Alex

September 5th, 2010
9:35 pm

Let’s stick with a baguette for argument’s sake!

Clinresga

September 7th, 2010
9:11 am

Like everything else in life, being proactive often leads to better experiences. So, regarding the Woodfire wine experience, I think the key is exploring what is one of the most innovative, thoughtfully chosen, and reasonably priced lists. Nick Quinones is enthusiastic, knowledgeable, and never condescending. He’s also almost always there. Ask for him by name. It’s a small gesture that will result in a great experience–like the Greek wines he suggested last time I was there that were a wonderful treat.

PS: JW: if you mistake Nick for a busboy, you must be hanging out at different restaurants than I. He’s always immaculately dressed. Looks like no busboy I’ve ever seen.

Sam Bruni

September 7th, 2010
11:19 am

How did WFG compare to Alinea? I think Grant Achatz is in talks with Alpo and a Korean BBQ as their spokesman.

Son of Puerquito

September 7th, 2010
11:41 am

@ Clinresga: a true wine enthusiats would have noticed all the typos. Since you did not, I assume you are cellaring yellow tail at home…

Tobiaz Johandsome

September 7th, 2010
1:19 pm

HAR HAR HAR Sons of Puerfritos!

Art

September 7th, 2010
6:37 pm

I TOTALLY AGREE with Fred!!! I’d had it with this blog as it, at times, had become a pack of rabid dogs… thrown into a fenced area with an occasional scoop of food tossed in by their pseudo-owner… that would be you JK… But Fred, with your comments, I have found that I am not the only one who believes that this blog is GREAT but it needs guidance…. John, I love your writing and I love your perspective on the Atlanta food scene but… you can’t simply pose “big” food questions and walk away for the day leaving us to suffer as if in a hot car with the windows rolled up and the A/C off… You’ve got to find a way to check in during the “day”… steer the conversation in the right direction, calm the crying babies who need their diapers changed and throw the miscreants out on their ears…. As for the Woodfire Grill, I think your writing and your rating are spot-on… Let’s hope that Kevin listens to those who care…

Lone Ranger

September 7th, 2010
7:06 pm

Art makes a good point… the whole ITP/OTP discussion became, pardon the pun, a total “Food Fight”… except it wasn’t about food… Marshal Kessler, your presence is requested at the OK Blog-a-rall.

John Kessler

September 7th, 2010
9:50 pm

You know, I’ve been told I bear a passing resemblance to Jerry Springer….

lolo

September 10th, 2010
1:29 am

oh boy, it has been a while since I found myself reading an entire restaurant review on the AJC, let alone the supplement to the review AND the comments. Welcome back John!