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City & State or ZIP Tonight, this weekend, May 5th...
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Five chefs to watch for

Chef Nick Rutherford, the Porter Beer Bar

Chef Nick Rutherford, the Porter Beer Bar

Mention Atlanta chefs and several names come up time and again. Anne Quatrano and Linton Hopkins are our standard-bearers for fine local cuisine. Richard Blais and Kevin Gillespie are our celebrities who made it to the bigs via “Top Chef.” Kevin Rathbun is everyone’s favorite purveyor of big flavors. But there are some up-and-coming chefs you’ve probably never heard of, like Nick Rutherford (above). These five have the goods — the palate, the skills, the P.O.V. — to have an impact on the city in years to come.

Who else belongs on this list?

Nick Rutherford, The Porter Beer Bar

This 30-year-old cooked in some of Atlanta’s most refined restaurants — Seeger’s, Quinones at Bacchanalia — before opening the inexpensive and pleasantly grungy Porter in the heart of Little Five Points with his wife, Molly Gunn. He has never strayed from his mission of serving burgers, fries and general absorption food, but he never misses an opportunity to put a gourmet spin on comfort classics. The beef stroganoff consists of braised brisket and homemade pappardelle. And those meatballs in the meatball sub? Pig’s feet. The daily specials list features some of the most exciting, original fare in the city. Lately he’s been spending more time in the garden behind his house growing tomatoes, beans, melons, raspberries and peaches for the restaurant.

Why do you like cooking in Atlanta? “There is still a lot of ground to be broken here. It’s not like New York where almost every crazy idea has already been done.”

The city needs: “More ramen noodle bars.”

The Porter Beer Bar: 11:30 a.m.-midnight, Monday-Wednesday; 11:30 a.m.-1 a.m., Thursday; 11:30 a.m.-2:30 a.m., Friday-Saturday; 11 a.m.-midnight., Sunday; 1156 Euclid Ave.; 404-223-0393; theporterbeerbar.com

wongCynthia Wong, pastry chef, Cakes & Ale

This 36-year-old Southerner (born in Charleston, S.C., grew up in Mobile) has held a lot of jobs in the Atlanta food industry. She was the production manager for Via Elisa Fresh Pasta, a food stylist for the TBS program “Dinner & a Movie” and even a food reviewer for Creative Loafing. But she has found her metier at Billy Allin’s Cakes & Ale restaurant, where her unique desserts — such as fennel-brown sugar wafers with toasted almond ice cream and ouzo-marinated cherries — are always worth saving room for.

So you’ve got big plans: “We’re building a bakery/dessert bar next to the Cakes & Ale expansion, which we hope to move into by midfall. I’ll bake croissants, sticky buns, scones and bagels fresh every morning. I’m really excited to get back to my bread-baking roots.”

Is that all? “No. I’ll make eclairs, freshly baked and filled. Buttermilk layer cakes. Chocolate bundt cakes. Oatmeal cookie and marshmallow ice cream sandwiches. Ice cream birthday cakes to order. Cake and jelly doughnuts and cupcakes — people can say both these things are “overdone, ” but to me there is no such thing, as long as it is tasty. Delicious is delicious, no matter how long it’s been around or en vogue.”

Cakes & Ale: 6-10:30 p.m., Tuesday-Wednesday; 6-11 p.m., Thursday; 5:30 p.m.-midnight, Friday-Saturday. Also open the first Sunday of each month for Sunday supper, 5:30 p.m. -closing (call for seatings); 254 W. Ponce de Leon Ave., Decatur; 404-377-7994; cakesandalerestaurant .com

leroy2Julia LeRoy, currently between jobs

Like Rutherford, this 29-year-old Detroit native has a background in fine dining, having worked at Seeger’s and the Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton Buckhead. But she made it onto the radar at the Bookhouse Pub, where her locavore Mondays were a sensation. Whether she’s cooking White Oak Pastures beef cheek pot pie with turnips, kale and a buttermilk biscuit crust, or wild Georgia shrimp with sweet potatoes in chipotle broth, she fashions a distinctive cuisine from regional products.

What’s next: “I want to open my own restaurant where I can focus on the total experience for the guest. The plan right now is to serve lunch and dinner with a small menu.”

Do you have a name in mind? “It’s probably going to be LeRoy’s Lunch and Dinner.”

ginsbergTodd Ginsberg, chef/co-owner, Bocado

Precise technique and plating mark the casual dishes — mostly small plates and sandwiches — at Ginsberg’s Westside restaurant. This 35-year-old learned his lessons under both Joel Antunes and Bruno Menard, the two chefs he worked under at the Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton Buckhead. Yet his food is completely unfussy. “Great ingredients speak for themselves, ” Ginsberg says, talking about his signature salad of bibb lettuce with buttermilk dressing, local goat cheese, cranberries and chives.

Atlanta inspires you because: “The dining scene here does not lack variety at all, and there are unique areas to the city, like Buford Highway. I lived in New York, and still to this day think the foods of Southeast Asia are better represented here.”

Where do you see yourself in five years? “Maybe in Paris. I’d like to open an American-style bistro there.”

Bocado: Lunch 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m., Monday-Friday; dinner 5 p.m.-closing, Monday-Saturday; 887 Howell Mill Road; 404-815-1399; bocadoatlanta.com

etchisonJennifer Etchison, pastry chef, Pricci

A Columbus native, Etchison, 34, worked with such notable area pastry chefs as Kirk Parks (Rathbun’s) and Kathryn King (Aria) before assuming the position at Pricci. Working closely with Pricci chef Piero Premoli, Etchison researches the canon of Italian sweets thoroughly for the restaurant’s monthly regions-of-Italy menu. Whether she’s making a double-crusted ricotta tart or a Friuli-style crostada of dried fruits and chocolate, Etchison’s creations are memorable because they are so unlike anything else in the city. She makes swoon-worthy gelato — perhaps a Nutella version she tops with candied chestnuts — or a floral honey one that catches, like good honey does, in the back of your throat. Then again, her Nutella moon pies with Coca-Cola granita makes a compelling case for Italian/Atlantan fusion.

One day you’ll own: “A small bakeshop where I can make all of my favorite desserts. I could also imagine running a small bed and breakfast.”

Where do you eat out? “Mostly I cook at home and am happy with that.”

Pricci: Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m., Monday-Friday; dinner 5-11 p.m., Monday-Saturday; 5-10 p.m., Sunday; 500 Pharr Rd.; 404-237-2941; buckheadrestaurants.com/pricci/

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joe

June 11th, 2010
10:03 pm

What about that guy over at the Holy Taco (Robert Phalen), Besha said she had the best meal shes had in months there. Plus he’s putting out some really good food!

another

June 12th, 2010
12:09 am

If you’re listing chefs between jobs then I nominate Chris Hall, formerly of Sundial, Canoe and creator of the beloved “3 Little Pigs” dish at 4th and Swift. The guy makes truffled eggs and a celery puree that are so good they’ll make your tongue beat your brains out. Hopefully all will go well and he’ll have a place by the end of the year!

bongo

June 12th, 2010
1:49 pm

Julia LeRoy is the hottest gal in Atlanta!!!

Theresa

June 12th, 2010
2:19 pm

I would have included Jay Swift of 4th & Swift.

holly

June 12th, 2010
5:40 pm

as the sister of jennifer etchison, i have to say her homemade meals are the best dining going..

Auri

June 13th, 2010
8:05 pm

I second the Jay Swift comment and added to this list. Great food at 4th and Swift.

FM Fats

June 14th, 2010
8:15 am

Lance Gummere at The Shed.

Teresa Williams

June 14th, 2010
11:14 am

Ms. Etchison certainly deserves this notice and we can’t wait for her to open her own bake shop. She’s got a huge fan club for her talents–and you can put me at the top of that list.

Elzis Prez

June 14th, 2010
12:20 pm

Brett at Hob Nob, had one of the best meals I’ve had in a long time a few weeks back.

Tyler Pike.

June 14th, 2010
12:58 pm

My dad. And he cooks wherever you need him to. He’s got a couple buddies w/ BBQ pits and he’ll help out there sometimes but most of his mastery is performed at our house. This past Saturday we had a big BBQ which included a wet t-shirt contest. Bet none of the other ‘Top 5′ can say that.

Mark in Johns Creek

June 14th, 2010
1:56 pm

You’ve GOT to try the Castelucci family’s SUGO in Roswell (2) and Johns Creek and the Iberian Pig in Decatur!!

Always Hungry

June 14th, 2010
3:59 pm

I’m sorry but Pricci is a joke. Like most of the Buckhead Life restaurants, the decor is stuck in 1992. The food is okay but it’s just plain boring. The old-school Buckhead crowd doesn’t help.

I’m falling asleep just thinking about it.

Food Fan

June 14th, 2010
5:02 pm

Once Hugh Acheson (Five & Ten in Athens) opens his restaurant here this fall, he should be mentioned. However, I disagree with his choice of the chef from Parish to run his ATL place. Never really had a great meal at Parish, which worries me…

GreekDawg

June 14th, 2010
6:22 pm

You missed young Pano Karatassos at Kyma. btw AH, you’re the joke for your denigration of BLRG restaurants. I think its you who’s stuck with your head up the wrong place.

katy5

June 14th, 2010
8:43 pm

I vote to add chef Landon Thompson-formally of Dogwood, to the list. I recently ate his stuffed dates(with manchego chees and celery) and grilled calamari (not the usual fare) from the “small bites” menu and the melt in your mouth, lamb chops entree with a particularly good sauce from a newly opened little Mediterranean place called Ziba’s Resturant and Wine Bar. Its over on Boulevard across from Grant Park. All were served with a good ethnic twist with tasty sides and a nice presentation. Wine was well priced. I think this guy may be somone to watch.

JVC

June 15th, 2010
10:02 am

Damiano DeNicolo at Marriott Atlanta Buckhead is awesome

Kapoonka

June 15th, 2010
12:40 pm

Buuuuuuuurrrrrrrrrrpppppp!!!!! Excuse me…I think it was the virtual eclair that did that….

Prof

June 16th, 2010
8:46 am

There’s this chef, I think his name is Bruce (don’t know the last name), anyway, he works in buckhead at a place called “McDonalds.” I tell you, he can make a Big Mac better than anyone. He really is a food artist.

rdb

June 16th, 2010
11:12 am

a trio to look out for: Todd Richards, Duane Nutter and Jerry Slater. They’ve cooked at the James Beard House, been on Iron Chef and are coming to your neighborhood soon! I’m just sayin…

Lisa

June 16th, 2010
12:41 pm

Both Nick and Molly rock!!!! Great place, great grub!

ATL Native

June 16th, 2010
3:25 pm

Atlanta def. has some great restaurants these days. Besides all the normal fan favorites, I’d suggest folks check out what Mel Toledo is cooking up at the 5 Seasons at the Prado. Mel was the head chef at Posh (in the old Seagers location) and then Home, with a brief stint at Aja inbetween.

kel

June 16th, 2010
5:06 pm

Ryan Hidinger – Muss & Turners/ Prelude to Staplehouse.

Dave

June 16th, 2010
5:08 pm

Have to agree w/ two posters above re Jay Swift. 4th and Swift is my current favorite restaurant.

Kimberly

June 20th, 2010
11:38 am

While the Buckhead Life restaurants do offer some excellent dishes.I will agree with A.H. that the decor is gaudy and takes away from the food in most causes…

Neal

June 29th, 2010
2:21 pm

The Porter repeatedly disappoints . . . When they first opened I was thrilled by the revamp of the location, great beer, and consistently satisfying food. Now? Well . . . because of the initial good impression I keep going back but have repeatedly been extremely disappointed by the food. Using a greasy tomato focacia bun on an already greasy burger turns the whole thing into a big, unmanageable mush. Fish n’ chips were great for a while and the garlic fries divine but this dish has also slipped dramatically.

Kudos to them for offering rabbit offal but after seeing the lack of care going into some of the more traditional pub fare, I’m not sure I want to venture off that way . . . I also have to mention the overwhelming stench of sour, stale beer that you get near the back of the bar/bathroom area which mixed with the smell of garlic fries makes the place generally unappealing.

I really hope for a rebound on the Porter’s part because for a time I thought they were the best thing going for the neighborhood in terms of food and good drink