Now that arugula is coming up in my garden, I’m beginning to appreciate the differences in this sharp-flavored green. Sometimes (Too much rain? Poor soil?) it can be flimsy and watery, with a tendency to bruise when dressed. On the other hand, if you don’t watch it, arugula bolts and sends up a foot-high spike and a crown of white flowers. After this, the leaves turn too hot and peppery.

Then, sometimes, you get perfect arugula with a meaty, spinach-like texture and an almost buttery back flavor that mellows its sharp tang.

Dynamic Dish served some fine Gaia Gardens arugula last week at lunch. Big, thick, tender-but-substantial, sharp-yet-mellow leaves came coarsely chopped and tossed in a sweet/tangy vinaigrette that would have overpowered a lesser leaf. It came topped with walnuts, halved green grapes and crunchy raw “kohlrabioli” rounds stuffed with goat’s milk ricotta.

This was a really satisfying and filling salad, particularly when accompanied with thick, crusty slices of fresh-baked bread and soft butter.

I hadn’t been to this Old Fourth Ward restaurant in months, but was really happy to find it thriving. We got there on the early side — a good thing because every seat soon filled.

We also split a bowl of this great  corn soup. David Sweeney, the chef, pureed sweet raw corn with cashew cream and topped the bowls with plucked cilantro leaves. The starchiness of raw corn gave this soup an unexpected (and not at all unpleasant) texture, while its sweetness lifted the soup’s assertive spice.

My daughter insisted we end with a slice of the vegan organic chocolate cake — one of her favorites ever. It has an exceptionally moist crumb and a serious, give-me-chocolate-or-give-me-death flavor. A couple of bites goes a long way.

By the way, Sweeney told me that the restaurant will be closed for three weeks in June for remodeling, so call before you go. But go you should.