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Dining and cooking notes: Suno opening Emory satellite, rich broth at Umaido, Thai soup, rack of lamb

photo 3Hello!

I have a complete and total mish-mosh of dining and cooking tidbits. No organizing principle whatsoever.

First up — great news for east-side fans of fluffy frozen treats:

Suno Dessert Café will open a new location near Emory University, at the corner of N. Decatur Road and Clairmont Road, later this month. The Asian-style dessert features freshly shaved milky ice topped with fruit, powders, beans, syrups, condensed milk and various other options. Here is a strawberry/kiwi cup I ate last weekend at the Suno in Duluth.

Next — Ramen noodle restaurant offers rich broth option:

I have always liked the broth at Umaido in Suwanee just the way it is. But I do sometimes hear from ramenaniacs who find the tonkotsu pork bone broth not rich enough. They should go back and try the “rich” option, now available on all the soups. Here is my daughter’s rich tonkotsu ramen:

photo 2And here is the non-rich, extra-spicy ramen I ordered:

photo-18The restaurants offers spice levels of 1 to 3. This is 3. It was blistering. My wife ordered a seafood ramen made with tonkotsu broth infused with the smoky flavor of dashi fish flakes. It was the most intense umami taste I can recall. We really loved it. Umaido just keeps getting better and better.

And now on to cooking:

photo-17I had some fish broth in the freezer that I made from the bones of a whole tilefish we ate a couple of months ago. So I made this quick, easy Thai soup from it. A little coconut milk to color the broth, and crushed lemongrass, hot Thai chilies and ginger to flavor it. I cooked English peas, honshimeji mushrooms and shrimp in the broth, then finished it with scallions, cilantro, fish sauce and lime juice. I think this soup would be good with canned chicken broth.

Now that the weather is warm in our house, that means it’s frozen yogurt season. I like to make a quick version in our ice cream machine with Greek yogurt and whatever kind of sweetened fruit we have on hand.

photo-16This is a quick yogurt made with the getting-mushy strawberries left over from the previous night’s dessert. I mashed them with sugar and lime juice, then froze the mixture with 2% Greek yogurt for about 20 minutes. If anyone wants to hear more about this, I can post a food story I wrote a couple of years ago, which has a number of recipes.

Finally, we cooked a rack of lamb for dinner the other night, for no reason other than it looked good in the Dekalb Farmers Market.

30554_394241531967_508766967_4581634_8258547_nRack of lamb is expensive, so I got just one for the four of us – resulting in about 2 chops apiece. I made a crust from crushed garlic, olive oil, salt, pepper, and rosemary and thyme from the herb garden. I cut the rack in two and coated each half with this flavorful paste. I roasted it, loosely tented with foil, at 400 degrees for about 20 minutes, then removed the foil and cranked the heat for a final five minutes. We all wanted more lamb but ate more potatoes. All told, this meal was no more expensive than a burrito run to Chipotle.

11 comments Add your comment

jack trent

May 19th, 2010
10:06 am

Suno’s dessert is Taiwanese style.

Robert Givens

May 19th, 2010
10:22 am

The desserts at Suno are delicious.

Lauren V.

May 19th, 2010
10:41 am

Excellent news about Suno — I’ve been excited about trying them but not about the drive.

I’m always looking for more frozen yogurt recipes — please do post them if you get a chance!


May 19th, 2010
12:06 pm

Suno’s shaved ice was inspired by Taiwanese shaved ice. They used to have the ‘traditional’ with toppings including red bean, mung bean, grass jelly, and sweetened boiled peanuts. Shaved ice is the first thing I seek out when we visit Taiwan.

John Kessler

May 19th, 2010
12:40 pm

Think there are some suggestions of Korean style/ownership on the Web site, but I’ll change the blog to say “Asian.” So this style of shaved ice originated in Taiwan? I remember something similar when I lived in Japan called “frappe” — often topped azuki beans. Big yums…

Kevin C.

May 19th, 2010
2:23 pm

I’m sure the others are right in that the dessert is Taiwanese, but the ownership and crowd there (Duluth) is definitely very much Korean. Heck, everything within a couple mile radius of that place is Korean :)

Steven A.

May 19th, 2010
3:05 pm

I have a foodie friend who lovingly refers to the kind of desserts Suno serves as “crap in a glass,” which seems accurate. Looks like Hell, but tastes like Heaven.

I tried Umaido’s “rich broth” option shortly after they debuted it a few months back (in the spicy tonkatsu). It was very good, but I was already a big fan of the original spicy version and I’d probably need a bowl of each side by side to really discern the difference. If I had to pick one place I’d love to have ITP, it would be an Umaido-style ramen-ya.

The Big Maru

May 19th, 2010
3:11 pm

The dessert also sounds alot like Ice Kacang aa served at Penang – red beans, corn, grass jelly, topped with shaved ice, coconut milk, and (I think) rose syrup.


May 19th, 2010
6:57 pm

John K – This type of shaved ice dessert is also served in Korea, but I have heard many Taiwanese friends refer to SunO as Taiwanese shaved ice. Hmm, this comment didn’t clear anything up at all.


May 20th, 2010
8:08 am

The influence of Korea and Japan on Taiwanese cooking is very significant. This is because of geographical proximity, and well as the Japanese occupation of the island in the late 19th century. It is not my favorite cuisine as I find it too bland.


May 20th, 2010
9:10 am

I remember having bao-bin (”shaved ice”) as a kid back in the ’80s in Taiwan as Wendy had described. The Korean name bao-bin-su sounds very much like the Taiwanese name. I wouldn’t be surprised though if it were an adaptation of Italian or Hawaiian shaved ice. I see a lot of Chinese and Korean desserts that are adaptations of western foods except that we try to work those red beans in at every opportunity.