I’m not sure what to make of — or how to attack — this burger.
Boardwalk Fresh Burgers & Fries has opened in Sandy Springs with a squint-and-you’re-there vision of the Maryland shore in its beach-themed digs. It is one of the first national franchises of a Maryland-based company that grew out of the popular Boardwalk Fry chain of french fry concessions.
Here’s the drill: The basic “Boardwalk burger” ($4.99), a double patty behemoth piled high, comes with all kinds of free add-ons and sauces as well as a few non-free add-ons. The “Surf Burger” ($3.59) is a not-insubstantial lone patty. You can also get grilled chicken, chicken tenders, hot dogs and salads.
Here’s how I did it:
The fries, which are cooked in peanut oil and fried several times (according to the menu) had that kind of leathery-crisp texture that can be appealing. These are noisy fries that crackle when you bite them. The restaurant recommends eating them with malt vinegar and a shake of Old Bay Seasoning, Maryland boardwalk style. This is tasty, but then again, so is plain ketchup. I don’t think I’d go out of my way to try the fries, but I might be tempted when driving by.
I did find a silver lining to an otherwise gray cloud of burger hunting. I brought a burger back for my daughter — nothing too fancy, just cheddar cheese, mustard and ketchup. This is it after we unwrapped it an hour later:
There was something real about this vision of greasy, cheesy, lumpy goodness. It was like a fast food hamburger, but better.
Even though there are so many free add-ons, maybe the trick is to say “no, thank you.”
I give Boardwalk Fresh Burgers & Fries one out of five skee ball machines.