1:02 pm May 10, 2010, by John Kessler

Pork sliders
The last time I was at Hankook Taqueria I noticed that everyone around me was ordering these pork sliders — two White Castle worthy squish buns filled with the kitchen’s spicy shredded pork, pickles, lettuce and cheese.
My kid and I stopped by last weekend to give them a try. While I applaud the messy generosity of these little sandwiches, I have the same problem with them that I do with the tacos at Hankook. Something about the mix of pasty shredded cheese and oily Korean chile paste does not appeal. I really love the free spirit of Hankook and only wish I liked the food better.
We also tried the day’s special — this Korean-style Cuban sandwich. Deli-style ham, cheese, kimchi and “Korean bacon” (crispy squares of pork belly — delicious) are piled in a soft sub roll. It’s really not a Cuban unless it’s pressed, so I was a little disappointed when it arrived. The flavors were interesting for a bite, maybe two.
Actually, no, just one. Bite. Hmmm. Pick out bacon…
What do you think? Have you been to Hankook Taqueria?
Discuss Atlanta restaurant reviews and food news with John and the AJC's dining team
Join AJC chief dining critic John Kessler as he snags a table at 50 of metro Atlanta's best restaurants.
The Atlanta 50: Where to eat, in e-book or print format.
PLUS:
• The Atlanta 50: What to See and Do, our e-book guide to Atlanta's vibrant cultural and leisure scene.
The Atlanta 50: Great Food -- Beyond Restaurants
• The top dozen food trucks | Map: Where you'll find 'em
• A feast for the eyes • Our Spring Guide: Where to Eat
• Video chat: Food experts on Atlanta's dining scene
Where We're Eating (new reviews every Thursday):
• All our recent restaurant reviews
• Behind our ratings: What the stars mean
Who's At The Plate:
• John Kessler, Chief Dining Critic | Email
• Jenny Turknett, Southern & Neighborhood Fare | Email
• Jon Watson, Popular Eats | Email
Join our conversation: Twitter | Facebook | Google+
Looking for more? ▲
Reach the audience you want by advertising on accessAtlanta.com
Advertisers and Publishers, expand your reach by joining the Access Atlanta Network.
Visitor Agreement | Privacy Statement | About our ads
© 2013 The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
8 comments Add your comment
marty
May 10th, 2010
1:54 pm
i love the fish tacos
RK
May 10th, 2010
2:01 pm
I agree. I’m always dissapointed in the food. I dont think cheese fits in with any of those flavors and if there is a dish or two that calls for it, then use something of quality, not pre-shredded cheese in a bag. I think Thomas, the Chef/Owner needs to play off the bright acid that so many korean ingredients have to take his food up another notch or two.
Mark C.
May 10th, 2010
4:02 pm
I went months ago, back in October, after the first reviews came in; thought it was all “meh”. The food was pretty tasteless and it was all just kind of a mess.
Totally agree with John’s assessment of the cheese; it just doesn’t fit. The food was lukewarm. The sauces didn’t have much zing to them. The tortillas were bland and not the right thickness. It was really disappointing and I never went back.
I think he really needs to go more korean in his flavors, add fresh crispy vegetables, maybe grilled meats…make it seem asian but fused with mexican styling.
JC
May 11th, 2010
2:38 pm
I have settled on the burritos as my staple there. The kimchi rice is tasty, the beef stands out, and somehow the issues with the tacos don’t show up here. I like the pancake….sometimes. if it is hurried, it gets overly glutenous, but done right it is a great snack.
John Kessler
May 11th, 2010
4:25 pm
Definitely prefer the burrito to the tacos…also the fried dumplings are good…but I just don’t know…
Jace
May 12th, 2010
1:35 pm
Been a few times, have really enjoyed the food. True, cheese and Korean food don’t mix, but is worth the trip and presents a good value. Brought a few of my non-Korean-food-eating friends there and they have loved it.
Lay off the Kook
May 12th, 2010
2:40 pm
I totally disagree. I think the place is great. I have yet to find a menu item I didn’t like and whenever there is a new special, I always try and enjoy it. Even though the previous name of the place (different owner and concept) was Good Eats, that exactly what you get at Hankook.
The Real Foodie
May 15th, 2010
5:06 pm
Dead link