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Sunday Column: Korean road food

kKorean food (Wikimedia)

Korean food (Wikimedia)

On the way home to Atlanta from spring break a couple of weeks ago, we made a great road-food discovery. JK House Korean Restaurant is less than a mile off of I-85 in Valley, Alabama, just across the Georgia state line. It caters to the Korean management community for the nearby Kia Motors  Manufacturing Plant in West Point, Georgia.

Of course, getting my family to eat Korean food is another matter altogether.

Below is the Sunday column I wrote about the restaurant. But I’m curious to know. What are your great hidden finds for road food in and out of Atlanta?

A Korean find in Alabama

By the time we pulled into Valley, Ala., my wife was fast asleep, the teenage girls in the back seats had depleted every laptop battery on episode after episode of “The O.C., ” and the minivan was out of gas. We had been driving for nearly five hours, and once I stopped at a gas station, stomachs started growling.

We looked around. There were a couple of fast food places and many, many bags of crunchy snack items to be had, but nothing that looked like an appealing restaurant.

And so I pulled out the handy-dandy Yelp! app on my mobile device, set it to “nearby restaurants” and scanned the list.

It didn’t look promising. Subway, Wendy’s, Captain D’s, Papa John’s —hello! — JK House Korean Restaurant.

“Does anyone want Korean food?” I asked.

“Sure.” “Yeah.” “Why not?” Moderate enthusiasm.

I was excited because Korean food is never crossover food the way Thai invariably is and Japanese usually is. The restaurant was there because for whatever reason, enough Korean people lived in Valley, Ala., to merit a restaurant. This would be the kind of roadside dining find I live for. I just knew it.

We drove our 0.8 miles and pulled into a strip retail center. On one end was JK’s — stark, brightly lit, completely empty. Tinny Korean pop music spilled to the asphalt.

“No one’s there, Daddy, ” moaned one of the children.

At the other end of the strip, beyond closed, dark storefronts, was Zen House, a restaurant with a colorful, expensive-looking facade and a bright sign set in that blocky Asian font of Chinese restaurants past.

“I’m going to go check out Zen House, ” said my wife, taking off at a sprint and leaving the rest of us to smile and hover by the smiling woman who emerged from JK House and was trying to usher us in.

My wife returned, beaming. “There are people in there! It looks really warm. Can we go, please?”

So we made excuses to Mrs. JK and traipsed into Zen House.

It was that kind of Chinese restaurant. The Buddha figurines. The backlit wall panels of mountain scenes. The silk flowers. The easy-listening version of some 1980s hair ballad, the glum-looking people eating shiny fried blobs and acid yellow rice. No!

I looked at the menu and my mind wandered. What looks good here? Nothing.

When my wife was in the restroom, I told the kids to order me a cup of soup, excused myself and ran back to JK House.

“Hello!” said the woman, surprised to see me return.

“Can I order carryout?”

“Yes, of course!” she said, opening a menu.

It all looked so good! I wanted bi bim bap: beef and mixed vegetables over rice with a fried egg. I wanted kimchi jigae: stew of kimchi, tofu, mushrooms, rice cakes and meat. I got both, and ran back to Zen House.

Ten minutes later, I ran back to pick up my food. The woman and I talked a bit as she packed my bag. The restaurant opened soon after the Kia plant, just across the state line in West Point, Ga.

She asked if I knew about Korean side dishes. “Ban chan?” I asked, referring to the profusion of pickles, marinated veggies and fish cakes that accompany a Korean meal.

She laughed heartily. “You know ban chan? Then I am going to give you so much ban chan!” She was gleeful.

I went back to Zen House with my bags groaning with Korean food just as the Chinese food started to arrive. My daughter bit into a dripping blob of sesame chicken and sighed. My wife picked at a chicken wing, and then took a bite of her egg roll. I asked the waitress if I could eat my carryout in the restaurant, and she said no problem.

I then started unwrapping a riot of colorful vegetables — emerald spinach, crimson kimchi, fantastic shreds of crisp-tender potato slicked in creamy sauce. That bi bim bap was a kaleidoscope ring of gorgeous vegetables and tender beef centered with a perfect sunny side up egg.

“Is that the Korean food?” asked the waitress. “Looks so good!”

It was. I felt kind of like a jackass, but a ravenous, rapturously happy jackass who had been driving for five hours and was eating food that couldn’t possibly taste any better. And when we finally got home, the kimchi jigae was still warm.

JK House Korean Restaurant 3701 20th Ave. Valley, AL 36854; 334-768-2042

10 comments Add your comment


April 26th, 2010
10:21 am

Another flight via Southwest (and Birmingham) may be in my future sooner than I think. Sounds really, really, good. Especially liked your comments on Thai and Chinese food.

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April 26th, 2010
1:37 pm

That is too funny Kessler. i had Korean food unexpectedly too. My MIL called and said they were coming over. (Well asked, but how do you say no lol). She said she had to make a stop first. I was hoping at one of the grocers on Buford Hwy. I was wrong. Don’t know where they stopped but it wasn’t for food to cook. My 8 year old met her at the door. GRANMA!!!!!!!!!!!!! Are you going to make bulgogi?

SO off she and wife went for Korean ingredients. Unlike you, I don’t know the names of most of what she cooks, I just chow it down. We had Bulgogi, traditional and then since the short ribs were pricey, she got some other thick cut of beef and made a bulgogi like dish with thick chunks of beef instead of the traditional thin slices, it was great. Then there were those stir fried tiny little fish. Tofu cooked in something that wasn’t quite soup but delicious anyway that spinach that is steamed and tossed with sesame seeds and hot peppers and some cucumber kimichi. She would have done more but she started late lol. I say LOL because there was still enough to feed a small army. Shame i had cooked the shrimp the day before, I wonder what she would have made out of that.

She left plenty of bulgogi marinating for tonight as well……….. one day i have to learn the names of more than kimchi, bulgogi and bi bim bap.

Is that place good enough to make a road trip just to eat there?


April 26th, 2010
1:38 pm

Wish there was an edit function here, change last sentence to read: Is that place SPECIAL enough to take HER on a road trip just to eat there?

John Kessler

April 26th, 2010
1:44 pm

Fred — No, not at all. It’s great if you’re on the road, but there’s plenty of worthwhile Korean food to try in Doraville and Duluth.


April 26th, 2010
1:48 pm

I wouldn’t have been surprised if they were run by the same family.

[...] This post was mentioned on Twitter by Cathlyn Choi, John Kessler. John Kessler said: Sunday Column: Korean road food [...]


April 26th, 2010
6:25 pm

John, as to your question about great food off the beaten path… Lexington BBQ #1 is just a short jog off I-85 in of course, Lexington, N.C. Years ago this place was on I-85 but of course they moved the road and now you have to go a little out of the way but it’s worth it. Lexington BBQ #1 is the quintessential home of pulled pork and red slaw… The veritable Shrine of NC Pork. At least once a year, I make it my destination, cooler in trunk and bring back enough ‘CUE to keep my fix in check for a few months. I just used my last quart last week so I guess I’ll be headed north in a few…

[...] This post was mentioned on Twitter by Cathlyn Choi. Cathlyn Choi said: A Korean find in Alabama | Food and More with John Kessler [...]


April 29th, 2010
11:35 am

There is also a Korean place in Opelika or Auburn: not exactly sure where I was. Pretty good.
Will stop in Valley next time through.