Following the advice of several readers of this blog, I trekked to Market Buckhead to try the burger. This W Hotel restaurant from Jean-Georges Vongerichten is not the first place I would think to look for a burger, but here it is: a big, bodacious $15 one.

You know what? It’s a really good burger. A nothing-too-fancy-but-everything-just-kind-of-tweaked-right burger.

Here’s the breakdown:

• The Burger: Angus beef that is not ground in house. But it has a beefy flavor and good seasoning on the grill-crisped surface. The patty hits that Goldilocks sweet spot — not a grey, greasy wisp, not a sufferer of meatball envy.
• The Bun: A grilled Alon’s bun that compresses nicely between your fingers and holds the patty in place. The bun:burger ratio is ideal.
• The Garnishes: Now, we’re talking. Unblemished Bibb lettuce, a thick, best-possible-for-the-season tomato slice, two onion rings, fantastic pickles house cured with yuzu and Thai green pepper, and a bare smear of Russian dressing. Trust me: you don’t want cheese.
• The Fries: Skin-on, crisp, nicely salted. Not revelatory, but fine.

View from my table

Conclusion: I think this is a paragon of the double-handed hamburger. It’s hearty and satisfying, and the garnishes add pops of flavor surprise. I’m breaking foodie orthodoxy here, but I definitely prefer this style to the slick and drippies at Holeman & Finch and Bocado.

It is also $15.

I’m thinking this is a useful burger to know about for a Buckhead business lunch or a case of late-night Buckhead munchies.

By the way, the Karim Rachid-designed space will make you think of every spirograph you’ve ever owned.

I give it four out of five pickle slices.