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Burger of the Week: Market Buckhead

photo 3Following the advice of several readers of this blog, I trekked to Market Buckhead to try the burger. This W Hotel restaurant from Jean-Georges Vongerichten is not the first place I would think to look for a burger, but here it is: a big, bodacious $15 one.

You know what? It’s a really good burger. A nothing-too-fancy-but-everything-just-kind-of-tweaked-right burger.

Here’s the breakdown:

  • photo 4The Burger: Angus beef that is not ground in house. But it has a beefy flavor and good seasoning on the grill-crisped surface. The patty hits that Goldilocks sweet spot — not a grey, greasy wisp, not a sufferer of meatball envy.
  • The Bun: A grilled Alon’s bun that compresses nicely between your fingers and holds the patty in place. The bun:burger ratio is ideal.
  • The Garnishes: Now, we’re talking. Unblemished Bibb lettuce, a thick, best-possible-for-the-season tomato slice, two onion rings, fantastic pickles house cured with yuzu and Thai green pepper, and a bare smear of Russian dressing. Trust me: you don’t want cheese.
  • The Fries: Skin-on, crisp, nicely salted. Not revelatory, but fine.
View from my table

View from my table

Conclusion: I think this is a paragon of the double-handed hamburger. It’s hearty and satisfying, and the garnishes add pops of flavor surprise. I’m breaking foodie orthodoxy here, but I definitely prefer this style to the slick and drippies at Holeman & Finch and Bocado.

It is also $15.

I’m thinking this is a useful burger to know about for a Buckhead business lunch or a case of late-night Buckhead munchies.

By the way, the Karim Rachid-designed space will make you think of every spirograph you’ve ever owned.

I give it four out of five pickle slices.

11 comments Add your comment

Alex

April 15th, 2010
3:37 pm

I am so glad you tried it John.

jimmy

April 15th, 2010
4:03 pm

Dang, looks good John.

Had the Minetta black label burger this past weekend and wanted to cry. Had a dream that night that they took me back into the kitchen and showed me how they made the fries. It involved a machine that tossed them with sucrose and mayo (wtf?).

Also, had weakest H&F burger to date last Tuesday night. Bread seemed a bit stale, which surprised me.

Steve

April 15th, 2010
4:43 pm

I’ve mentioned it before in another post, but if you like this style of burger, you definitely need to try Muss & Turners. For me, its the best in Atlanta for this style. I’m drooling right now thinking about it.

Jimmy, I hope it was a one time thing…that thing is way too good to go wrong already.

Anyone try the PB&J burger (pimiento cheese, bacon, tomato jam) from West Egg yet?

Mr, Buns

April 15th, 2010
8:41 pm

Mr. Kessler, I am very impressed by your style and cravings for a great Burger. I would encourage you to come and try the Manburger at Buns Hamburgers Hot Dogs and More. We are located at 1250 Highway 138 SW Riverdale GA
THE number is 770 907-2BUNS (2286)

[...] This post was mentioned on Twitter by John Kessler. John Kessler said: Burger of the Week: Market Buckhead http://bit.ly/bnLYkT [...]

Baltisraul

April 16th, 2010
8:02 am

For most of us, that is a hamburger that is bought by someone elses money . Even on an expense acct. that is high dollar for a buger and fries. I am sure it tastes great! Any suggestions on where the rest of us common folk can get a good burger?

Puerquito

April 16th, 2010
9:33 am

@Baltisraul: John is reviewing a burger every week (I thought the title of the article was sel-explanatory). Some will be cheap, some will be expensive. Some will be good, some not so much.
Be patient young one, you “regular” folk burger will surface soon enough…

Steve

April 16th, 2010
9:38 am

Those Buns folks just don’t quit! I think I’d rather go eat some of Tyler Pike’s daddy’s bbq. lol

brian

April 18th, 2010
4:56 pm

BLT Steak has a much better burger!

Kitchen Magician

April 22nd, 2010
12:16 am

If you would take your hand and make a fist the size of the burger,than find a place on your stomach to rest your fist on.Now, ask yourself this,How am I going to feel after I put that amount of meat ,plus goodies that go with it, in my body?”
Having this new revelation, go to Five Guys,get a little burger, 3 pounds of fries(if you order a small!), and spend $12.00 for TWO,yes # 2, persons to have a great hambuger experience,while still being able to stay awake in the car for the ride home and money left over!

[...] I am a sucker for fruit-based desserts. When I went to Market Buckhead recently to write up a burger of the week, I couldn’t resist this concoction. It’s a coconut flan with candied kumquats, lime [...]