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Burger of the Week: Rosebud

photoThis meaty monster ($13) is consistent with all of chef Ron Eyester’s food at Rosebud restaurant in Morningside — brawny, generous, fresh tasting, indulgent. But I will say it’s probably my least favorite of the several dishes I’ve tried here. Let’s take a look.

The burger: A not-too-thick, not-too-thin patty of ground Kobe beef, grilled to a gushingly juicy medium but not flavored with any grill char. The loosely formed texture is a pleasure.

The bun: Grilled, soft, flavorful and destined to its fate as a blanket of pink, soppy juices.

The standard add-ons: Grilled onions (nice! Sweet and a still a little crisp.) and Marco Polo cheddar studded with tingly peppercorns. The honking slice of cheese drapes over the bun, so you get to experience it both melted and unmelted. (Double nice!)

photo 3The condiments: Standard-issue ketchup and the Worcestershire-zingy house steak sauce.

The fries: Good Lord, no. Dry, mealy, leathery. Reminds me of the days of Olestra.

The gestalt: I really wanted to like this burger more than I did because the components should all add up to a singular experience. But that Wagyu beef tasted to me more of fat than beef. I much preferred the flavor of the Creekstone Farms beef I sampled last week at Dantanna’s. The usual boldness of the cooking at Rosebud didn’t translate into burger love. I give it one and a half out of five Japanese cows.

19 comments Add your comment

Tyler Pike

March 25th, 2010
10:04 am

I ain’t saying it looks like a burger from Daddy but I tell ya, that ain’t a bad lookin’ burger. I’d be lying to ya if I said I didn’t have a bit of a chub lookin at that succulent piece of beef.

Steve

March 25th, 2010
10:09 am

Chuck

March 25th, 2010
11:44 am

Great. Another giant burger that will make me fat. Anything over a quarter pound is excessive, Wagyu or not.

Anthony

March 25th, 2010
11:57 am

Here’s something to chew on: why would you grind up a piece of Kobe beef that is cultivated expressly to be ultra-tender?

No wonder it tastes ‘fatty’…

joelle

March 25th, 2010
12:03 pm

his burger is fabulous!!!!
Also, you grind up Wagu as you would any other beef- you are not grinding the primal cuts- there is byproduct on all animals…..
I vote it one of the best burgers in Atlanta. Get a Kobe burger salas if you are trying to lose weight;)

joelle

March 25th, 2010
12:04 pm

Enter your comments here
one more thing. Kobe/Wagyu is so delicious because of the fat content.
Fat = Flavor!!!!!

Jam

March 25th, 2010
12:08 pm

$13 for a third-rate hamburger? Yuuuch.

Steve

March 25th, 2010
12:18 pm

John, I’m assuming that they are serving Wagyu beef and note Kobe, correct? There is a significant difference between the two and I feel like restaurants misrepresent all the time. Kobe beef must come from the black Tajima breed of Wagyu cattle in Japan. I’ve had both Kobe and Wagyu and I must say that there is a huge difference in marbeling, taste, and price. If you put a cut of Kobe and a cut of Wagyu side by side, you’d see the difference. There are only a few places in town that have actual Kobe on the menu.

JuneBug

March 25th, 2010
1:29 pm

Just because you can do a press release doesnt mean you can cook a burger. Check out Buns Hamburgers Hot Dogs and More. They were in Shannon Mall for 4 years and have now opened a new store at 1250 Highway 138 SW, in Riverdale (770) 907- 2BUNS. These guys butter and grill their Buns and have a Burger called the ManBurger which come with Cheese, Turkey Bacon, Lettuce Tomatoe Onions Pickles and traditional sauces. They really handcut thier fries and offer the best turkey burgers as well. If you dont know them now you will soon. Buns is the best!!!

reservoirDAWG

March 25th, 2010
1:36 pm

Hey Junebug, how long have you been working at Buns?

recent experience

March 25th, 2010
1:39 pm

I just had that burger there for lunch two days ago – it was fantastic and so were the fries. Maybe I hit in on a better day, but I have to disagree with your review.

joelle

March 25th, 2010
1:42 pm

Steve- Wagyu is the breed. Kobe is the place isn Japan that the original animal was from…same thing- used interchangablty.
There are different levels of marbling in the animal, as in american beef…. the imported beef from Japan that you hardly ever see here is almost white in color- the american palate really can’t handle it.
Also, most farmers will mix an angus or other such breed with the wagyu steer to produce a product that will be more pleasing to the American palate.

Puerquito

March 25th, 2010
2:01 pm

joelle – wagyu and kobe are not interchangable. You are correct about the breed/place comment. However, Amercan wagyu has a different genetic profile than the Kobe Cows. No american farmer, that I know, has actually imported live Wagyu cattle from Kobe to reprodece in the US. They bring back the gentetic material (bull juice, if you will) and cross breed with other local breeds until they arrive to a close genetic relative.

Steve

March 25th, 2010
2:04 pm

Joelle – you’re partially correct… When referring to Kobe, you are referring to the beef that comes from the Wagyu cattle in Japan. The rest is just Wagyu (aka Kobe-style beef). Its like Champagne. Its all sparkling white wine, but if it comes from the Champagne region of France, then its Champagne. So if it says Kobe beef, the assumption is that it’s from Kobe region of Japan.

Sandy McNeal

March 25th, 2010
2:27 pm

Buns do have variety of foods that i like personally. such as the beef and turkey bacon chz burgers, their grilled chicken sand and salads, wings aswell and they even carry turkey bacon. they dont sale any PORK!

Fanatic

March 25th, 2010
2:43 pm

Why does it matter if they sell pork? Turkey bacon is generally much higher in fat and calories than center cut pork bacon… Speaking of which, the average caloric intake has varied only slightly over the last 30 years while rates of obesity have risen steadily. The bigger difference is that physical activity levels have decreased dramatically over that same period of time due to advances in electronic media.

So go enjoy your burger, then go exercise.

Steve

March 25th, 2010
2:58 pm

Can this buns advertising cr*p please stop. Its clearly the same person posting all of this.

John Kessler

March 25th, 2010
3:57 pm

Okay: I left in one pro-Buns comment….but if more magically appear I can block the ISP.

So, yes, Wagyu refers to Japanese breed cattle — from the characters 和 (wa) meaning “harmony” or things Japanese and 牛 (gyu) meaning beef. The menu did say “Kobe” and I didn’t call them on it.

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