This meaty monster ($13) is consistent with all of chef Ron Eyester’s food at Rosebud restaurant in Morningside — brawny, generous, fresh tasting, indulgent. But I will say it’s probably my least favorite of the several dishes I’ve tried here. Let’s take a look.
The burger: A not-too-thick, not-too-thin patty of ground Kobe beef, grilled to a gushingly juicy medium but not flavored with any grill char. The loosely formed texture is a pleasure.
The bun: Grilled, soft, flavorful and destined to its fate as a blanket of pink, soppy juices.
The standard add-ons: Grilled onions (nice! Sweet and a still a little crisp.) and Marco Polo cheddar studded with tingly peppercorns. The honking slice of cheese drapes over the bun, so you get to experience it both melted and unmelted. (Double nice!)
The condiments: Standard-issue ketchup and the Worcestershire-zingy house steak sauce.
The fries: Good Lord, no. Dry, mealy, leathery. Reminds me of the days of Olestra.
The gestalt: I really wanted to like this burger more than I did because the components should all add up to a singular experience. But that Wagyu beef tasted to me more of fat than beef. I much preferred the flavor of the Creekstone Farms beef I sampled last week at Dantanna’s. The usual boldness of the cooking at Rosebud didn’t translate into burger love. I give it one and a half out of five Japanese cows.