10:10 am February 26, 2010, by John Kessler
Recently I bumped into David Sweeney, the fine chef/owner of almost-vegetarian restaurant Dynamic Dish, at Whole Foods Market. We had a laugh because Sweeney, who is not vegetarian, was buying shrimp for dinner, while I was planning a meal around this blue box of seitan.
Seitan — a spongy protein made from wheat gluten — has long been a butt of my jokes. Then I tried it, and I have to say, developed a taste for it. I like the mild flavor that brings to mind a bowl of Cream of Wheat. I like the spongy texture that bounces back in your mouth like a Chicken McNugget. I like the way the semi-porous mass absorbs and melds flavors. Seitan is the perfect conduit for a subtle sauce.
And so it has made its way into the rotation in our house. I’ve learned to appreciate seitan not as a substitute for meat, but for its own gluten-y goodness.
Has anyone else gone to the gluten side?
Discuss Atlanta restaurant reviews and food news with John and the AJC's dining team
Join AJC chief dining critic John Kessler as he snags a table at 50 of metro Atlanta's best restaurants.
The Atlanta 50: Where to eat, in e-book or print format.
PLUS:
• The Atlanta 50: What to See and Do, our e-book guide to Atlanta's vibrant cultural and leisure scene.
The Atlanta 50: Great Food -- Beyond Restaurants
• The top dozen food trucks | Map: Where you'll find 'em
• A feast for the eyes • Our Spring Guide: Where to Eat
• Video chat: Food experts on Atlanta's dining scene
Where We're Eating (new reviews every Thursday):
• All our recent restaurant reviews
• Behind our ratings: What the stars mean
Who's At The Plate:
• John Kessler, Chief Dining Critic | Email
• Jenny Turknett, Southern & Neighborhood Fare | Email
• Jon Watson, Popular Eats | Email
Join our conversation: Twitter | Facebook | Google+
Looking for more? ▲
Reach the audience you want by advertising on accessAtlanta.com
Advertisers and Publishers, expand your reach by joining the Access Atlanta Network.
Visitor Agreement | Privacy Statement | About our ads
© 2013 The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
12 comments Add your comment
Jamie Gumbrecht
February 26th, 2010
10:44 am
We are so there, but there are limits to how we use it. It’s not pretty. And while it’s been a long time since I’ve actually eaten or cooked meat, this has so many of the same slightly icky qualities during preparation that I don’t like to handle it. I’ve taken to running it through the slicer on the food processor, dropping it in a frying pan with a quarter of an onion and a little olive oil, letting it hang out in there for a while with some bbq sauce and slapping it on a bun. So easy, so tasty, so gluten-y.
Matt Freedman
February 26th, 2010
10:59 am
I didn’t like the texture of the West Soy seitan – like a waterlogged corpse. So I tried the Seitan Cutlets recipe from VEGANOMICON. Wayyyy too chewy for us. Next up: the Seitan/Chickpea cutlets recipe from the same book.
Petie The Crab
February 26th, 2010
11:36 am
I smoked some 2 weeks ago and have yet to develop a lasting taste for it.
Alan D
February 26th, 2010
11:39 am
By all indications in the latest research, wheat gluten is a major contributor to heart disease in many people. I would not include this as a part of my regular diet. Soy is a much better meat substitute, if is not overly processed. Try Tempeh.
Petie The Crab
February 26th, 2010
11:39 am
Freaknik isn’t pretty either Jamie. Thanks for stirring the pot yesterday.
Stephanie
February 26th, 2010
12:28 pm
We love Seitan…care to share some of your fave recipes?
Brian White
February 26th, 2010
1:10 pm
“I smoked some 2 weeks ago and have yet to develop a lasting taste for it.”
@Petie – Dude you’re supposed to eat it not smoke it
(j/k)
Petie The Crab
February 26th, 2010
1:48 pm
Durnit, nothing comes with instructions any more.
LizR
February 26th, 2010
4:45 pm
It is kind of fun (and certanly cheaper) to make your own. Basically you make a dough ball from whole wheat flour and water, knead it, and then soak it in a bigger bowl of water before rinsing out the starch. Then you simmer it in a flavorful broth.
Spiceaholic
February 28th, 2010
9:28 am
I’ve tried that brand and wasn’t too crazy about it. The Whole Foods hot bar sometimes has seitan dishes and when I’ve tried those they’re pretty good. I wonder if they use that brand or if they’re making their own?
Margie
February 28th, 2010
6:50 pm
I really enjoy seitan in this version of Katsudon:
http://www.justveggingout.com/2009/06/katsudon-eggs-onions-and-breaded.html
Dana
March 1st, 2010
4:14 pm
Ha, John, love the title of this blog. A little old skool SNL reference, awesome.