Last week I visited the Decatur branch of Saigon Cafe, figuring I’d make a quick lunch of a bowl of pho. But the weather was so frigid that the pho didn’t appeal. The cinnamon, star anise and other cooling spices in the broth just seemed wrong when the temperature was 20 degrees outside.
So instead I got a bowl of hu tieu. This noodle soup is based on a pork/seafood broth rather than a beef broth, and it comes with a choice of clear or egg noodles. It also features a flurry of fried shallots over the top, which give the soup a toasty, warming accent just like the onion strings on the string-bean casserole.
This Chinese-influenced soup is popular in various guises throughout Vietnam, Thailand and Cambodia. Try it, and you’ll immediately recognize the shared parentage with wonton noodle soup.
This version came with shrimp, chicken and barbecued pork slices over egg noodles, which are the same as Chinese mee. It wasn’t a great rendition, truth be told — the broth was too weak — but it did hit the spot that day.
If the weather stays like this, I think I’ll be looking for soup all over town. I love the ramen at Umaido, the tomato soup at Bocado and whatever the soup of the day is at Dynamic Dish.
Any other ideas? I’d love to find out about some great cold-weather soups. If you have any recommendations, please share.
26 comments Add your comment
Jenn
January 12th, 2010
1:44 pm
The tom yum with chicken and shrimp at Malaya is fantastic. It will make your nose run and your brow sweat. Great for a cold day.
Soupy Sales
January 12th, 2010
2:52 pm
Nice timely topic, John. I’ve only been in ATL a few years and, though I’ve found many terrific eats here, I’m sad to say that the soups I’ve had around town (outside of some pho and ramen) haven’t really lit my lamp. (Though Brunswick Stew at Fox Bros. is delightful.) I still haven’t found that great, reliably-consistent ATL soup for a wintry day. I’m really jonesing for my old NYC E. Village winter mainstays: Ukrainian borscht (in either red or white varieties) and Polish lamb stew. Does anyone know of any good borscht to be had here? (You’ll save me the cost of a plane ticket.)
Stephanie
January 12th, 2010
3:41 pm
sounds nasty but Caramba Cafe has some fabulous sopa de pollo that will leave your sinuses dripping for hours.
Ted
January 12th, 2010
3:52 pm
Lunch the other day at Penang on BuHi was PENANG UDANG MEE, a slightly spicy shrimp noodle shrimp. The server cautioned me that it had a very strong fishy taste, and it did, but in a good way. Made for a very satisfying lunch on a cold day.
Jere
January 12th, 2010
4:29 pm
The tortilla soup at Garcia’s in the Georgetown shopping center is the best I’ve ever had and really hits the spot on cold weather days like we’ve had recently.
Soup's On: Hu Tieu at Saigon Cafe | Food and More with John Kessler | LATEST CAFE DETAILS
January 12th, 2010
5:21 pm
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SP
January 12th, 2010
7:25 pm
I love the tomato soup at Wildflour Cafe on Windward Pkwy. It’s accompanied with fresh baked bread every day. Their food is amazing! Also love the chicken tortilla soup at Uncle Julio’s Casa Grande (on Peachtree).
Matt Freedman
January 12th, 2010
9:22 pm
The mi quang at Pho #1. bunches of flat tumeric-flavored noodles nestled in a fruity, spicy broth and showered with minced fresh herbs, topped with a delectable selection of proteins – shrimp, pork pate, lusciously fatty beef – and served with crispy crackers? om nom nom nom
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January 12th, 2010
10:22 pm
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Greg Wilson
January 12th, 2010
11:19 pm
Soupy Sales, for borscht try Gimza in Norcross. http://www.gimzapolishrestaurant.com
Minjenah
January 12th, 2010
11:21 pm
Tofu Soup. We had that on Sunday. It is very satisfying to eat something that is so hot that it can cook an egg.
Minjenah
January 12th, 2010
11:21 pm
Tofu Soup. We had that on Sunday. It is very satisfying to eat something that is so hot that it can cook an egg when it is so cold.
Meredith
January 13th, 2010
9:08 am
The tomato soup at Stone Soup in Grant Park is fantastic.
chip
January 13th, 2010
9:48 am
The coconut curry soup at Lemongrass Cafe in Marietta was amazing a couple weeks ago; hot and rich and super satisfying!
Jan Schroder
January 13th, 2010
2:06 pm
Any soup at Souper Jenny; shrimp and lobster soup at Uncle Julio’s on Fridays; Shrimp and corn chowder at Tacqueria del Sol; coconut soup at Doc Chey’s.
Sid
January 13th, 2010
5:14 pm
For tasty, on-the-spot cold weather soup, Cafe Alsace is the spot, just off the Decatur Square down from Starbucks on Ponce.
leslie
January 13th, 2010
6:18 pm
The Tom Yum and Gangsum soups at Thai House in Roswell are incredible, as are most dishes that they serve.
Peggy
January 13th, 2010
6:26 pm
MetroFresh in the Virginia Highlands area is wonderful…..several soup choices a day and you can buy soup for the freezer to take home. Also great wholesome sides, sandwiches , dinner specials and Sunday Brunch. They even deliver if in the area.
John Kessler
January 14th, 2010
8:15 am
Ted – Love Penang’s udan mee. Had forgotten about it. Sid – What soups are good at Cafe Alsace. It’s near my house, but I haven’t been in years. Maybe time to go back.
Steven A.
January 14th, 2010
11:15 am
Equally curious about soup at Cafe Alsace, Sid. It’s a favorite spot of ours since, like John, it’s walking distance from our house, but I always associate it with brunch, pate and spaetzle. Don’t know that I’ve ever had soup there, although I will advise that folks avoid their salad, which inexplicably comes topped with canned corn niblets.
Kar
January 14th, 2010
2:23 pm
Seriously? Really cold weather is exactly when that exotic fragrance of tropical spices and rich broth is most appealing to me.
Leslie
January 15th, 2010
12:52 am
Monterrey Mexican Restaurant, located at 5406 Buford Hwy…they’ll serve you a huge bowl of some of the best chicken soup you’ve ever eaten…Full of poached white meat chicken, fresh vegetables, rice and a handful of cilantro. My Nana’s soup has always been my benchmark; this runs a very close second. Sorry, no matzo balls.
Shawn
January 15th, 2010
8:52 am
I always look for fresh, made from scratch soups. I can’t stand frozen bases like many lazy restaurants use. Being an OTPer, I have always enjoyed the soups at The Red Hen and The Diner. Whether its a “flavor” I don’t care for or not, at least its fresh and from scratch.
John Kessler
January 15th, 2010
3:36 pm
The Red Hen is a quality joint.
Kar: Diff’rent strokes, I guess…
Soupy Sales
January 17th, 2010
4:24 pm
Thanks Greg Wilson!
Todd
January 20th, 2010
1:17 pm
Thank you for mentioning Omaido. Great bowl of ramen. 30 minute drive, but will do it again when I get the craving for some more.