accessAtlanta

City & State or ZIP Tonight, this weekend, May 5th...
City & State or ZIP
City & State or ZIP Tonight, this weekend, May 5th...
City & State or ZIP

First Look: Miller Union

credit: David Naugle (courtesy of Miller Union)

credit: David Naugle (courtesy of Miller Union)

MILLER UNION

What it is: A restaurant that takes the farm-to-table credo as seriously as any in town. Produce and meats come largely from local farms, seafood from nearby coastal waters. The menu changes weekly, and it is built entirely around the harvest.

Where it is: In a new mixed-use development in West Midtown, on the site of the former Miller Union stock yards. It’s a block off Howell Mill road on a street that you likely never knew existed.

Why it’s interesting: The intown food crowd is all over this restaurant, and it isn’t just for the “Miller thyme” cocktails (a lemony, herbal martini). Chef Steven Satterfield long ran the kitchen at Watershed under Scott Peacock, while his partner, Neal McCarthy, was the general manager at Sotto Sotto. These two are so well liked that they’ve already gathered more than a thousand names for Miller Union’s Facebook fan page. You know what that means: make a reservation.

What it looks like: A hipsterized farmhouse. Muted colors and natural materials set the tone in a space that’s broken into distinct areas. Some are crowded and boisterous, others spacious and open. You’ll definitely want to find out the number of your favorite table to reserve it. Design firm ai3 (Holeman & Finch Public House, Flip, 4th and Swift) continues to define the look of Atlanta intown cool in the aughts.

Wild striped bass, roasted parsnips, sauteed greens

Wild striped bass, roasted parsnips, sauteed greens

What’s on the menu: Good ingredients, prepared simply. Satteerfield prefers to leave many dishes unsauced and without any extraneous garnish. The menu hallmarks so far include an egg coddled in celery cream and served with rusks of grilled bread, pulled rabbit with wild mushrooms and grits, and a hunk of pork shoulder braised in beer and served with a sweet potato in its jacket. Come January, Miller Union will serve a family-style “harvest dinner” every Tuesday.

Chicory lettuces with grapefruit

Chicory lettuces with grapefruit

Dinner for two will cost: About $85 for three courses if you’re watching your wallet. Then again, those specialty cocktails have their appeal, as does the reasonably priced wine-by-the-bottle list.

Who’s there: Customers who have followed Satterfield and McCarthy and shriek with delight when they visit the table. Every chef in town. A younger drinking crowd at the front bar. Miller Union adds a lot of life to this still-empty block.

Look for dining critic Meridith Ford Goldman’s review of Miller Union in early January.

Miller Union: 999 Brady Ave., 678-733-8550.

Herbal ice creams

Herbal ice creams

6 comments Add your comment

uberVU - social comments

December 15th, 2009
10:55 am

Social comments and analytics for this post…

This post was mentioned on Twitter by jdkess: First Look: Miller Union. Farm to table, and we mean it. http://bit.ly/7io7rK…

Smiling Joe is always Smiling

December 15th, 2009
3:40 pm

The specialty cocktail drinks are terrible.

The whole list needs revamping ala Holeman or Drinkshop.

Cloyingly sweet.

Joe the Plumber

December 16th, 2009
1:52 pm

Really? what drink did you have Mr Smiley?
The Miller Thyme is one of the best drinks I have had in the city!

Daily Diner

December 16th, 2009
1:57 pm

I’ve dined at Miller Union several times and have enjoyed all the cocktails. I’m a big fan of H&F’s drinks too, but the spirits I had at MU (Miller Thyme, Blood & Sand) were just as delightful. The wine list is also thoughtful and varied. Last and certainly not least, the food is exceptionally delicious, elegant and comforting.

John Kessler

December 16th, 2009
2:11 pm

I like the MIller Thyme, as well.
P.S. Sorry for the lousy food photos. It’s dark in there!

Vicki

December 16th, 2009
7:13 pm

We ate there and loved it. Our table was in the small cozy part. We had the egg in celery cream
( what memorable comfort food) and I had a fabulous tender pork thing, very simple. We had the herb ice creams and the only one that was no-good was the sage one. We were there in the time when their liquor license hadn’t come through and they very kindly poured us both a glass of wine on the house. Service was memorably nice and thoughtful.