What it is: A restaurant that takes the farm-to-table credo as seriously as any in town. Produce and meats come largely from local farms, seafood from nearby coastal waters. The menu changes weekly, and it is built entirely around the harvest.
Where it is: In a new mixed-use development in West Midtown, on the site of the former Miller Union stock yards. It’s a block off Howell Mill road on a street that you likely never knew existed.
Why it’s interesting: The intown food crowd is all over this restaurant, and it isn’t just for the “Miller thyme” cocktails (a lemony, herbal martini). Chef Steven Satterfield long ran the kitchen at Watershed under Scott Peacock, while his partner, Neal McCarthy, was the general manager at Sotto Sotto. These two are so well liked that they’ve already gathered more than a thousand names for Miller Union’s Facebook fan page. You know what that means: make a reservation.
What it looks like: A hipsterized farmhouse. Muted colors and natural materials set the tone in a space that’s broken into distinct areas. Some are crowded and boisterous, others spacious and open. You’ll definitely want to find out the number of your favorite table to reserve it. Design firm ai3 (Holeman & Finch Public House, Flip, 4th and Swift) continues to define the look of Atlanta intown cool in the aughts.
What’s on the menu: Good ingredients, prepared simply. Satteerfield prefers to leave many dishes unsauced and without any extraneous garnish. The menu hallmarks so far include an egg coddled in celery cream and served with rusks of grilled bread, pulled rabbit with wild mushrooms and grits, and a hunk of pork shoulder braised in beer and served with a sweet potato in its jacket. Come January, Miller Union will serve a family-style “harvest dinner” every Tuesday.
Dinner for two will cost: About $85 for three courses if you’re watching your wallet. Then again, those specialty cocktails have their appeal, as does the reasonably priced wine-by-the-bottle list.
Who’s there: Customers who have followed Satterfield and McCarthy and shriek with delight when they visit the table. Every chef in town. A younger drinking crowd at the front bar. Miller Union adds a lot of life to this still-empty block.
Look for dining critic Meridith Ford Goldman’s review of Miller Union in early January.
Miller Union: 999 Brady Ave., 678-733-8550.