Here’s one of those dishes that you want to remember for those times when you’re drunk, fixing to get drunk or recovering from drinking too much.
These truffled hash browns ($5.50) — currently on the specials list at the Porter Beer Bar in Little Five Points — consist of a crisp, football-shaped cake of shredded potatoes blanketed with well-cooked mushrooms, white cheddar cheese and truffle oil.
Normally I’m not a fan of the chemical stench of truffle oil, but when it combines with all that tasty grease, and the melty topping, and those meaty bursts of mushroom flavor then…well…it’s guilty pleasure time. My daughter and I ate about three quarters of this glorious gut bomb before it coagulated enough to stop us.
My friend Besha Rodell — who is Creative Loafing’s food editor and restaurant critic — has a great term for this kind of skeezy deliciousness. One time when we were talking, she referred to “slutty Chinese food,” and I knew exactly what she meant. Those deep-fried chunks in spicy-sweet sauce. Those noodles that seem to slide down your throat.
These may be the sluttiest hash browns I’ve ever tried. I think Waffle House needs to add this dish (and this word) to their hash brown lineup.