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City & State or ZIP Tonight, this weekend, May 5th...
City & State or ZIP
City & State or ZIP Tonight, this weekend, May 5th...
City & State or ZIP

Terra d’Oro Zinfandel

By Gil Kulers, CWE, Kulers Uncorked

By Gil Kulers, CWE, Kulers Uncorked

2007 Terra d’Oro, Deaver Vineyard, Zinfandel, Amador County, Calif.

2007 Terra d’Oro, Deaver Vineyard, Zinfandel, Amador County, Calif.

• $30

• Two Thumbs Way Up

• Rich aromas of candied apple, cedar, mocha, ripe black cherries, new leather and violets. This elegant wine has flavors of dark chocolate, mocha, sour cherry, cranberry and black pepper with delicate notes of dry herbs and tea.

Zinfandel. Is it red? Is it “white”? Is it high in alcohol? Is it a jar of jam? Is it spicy? Is it an American grape? Is it the immigrant descendent of the Croatian grape crlijenak kastelansk?

The answer to all questions is an enigmatic yes.

Big, bold red zinfandel comes from the same grape as the pinkish, slightly sweet version. The difference is that the clear juice inside a zinfandel grape comes into brief contact with its outer skin, giving white zin its characteristic pink hue. This is the same grape skin that lends all the peppery spiciness to red zinfandel wine.

High in alcohol? In most cases, emphatically yes. Zinfandel ripens unevenly, which means some grapes are completely ripe and ready, while others on the same bunch are barely halfway developed. As we wait for the poky grapes sufficiently ripen, the early ripening grapes gain a ton of sugar. More sugar equals more alcohol during fermentation. The overripe grapes lend a jammy, prune quality to zinfandel’s taste profile.

Centuries ago, crlijenak kastelansk mutated into zinfandel and into primativo. Primativo found a home in southern Italy. Zinfandel found its way, likely through English botany enthusiasts, across the Atlantic and eventually to the West Coast. Italian immigrants embraced the grape once they arrived in northern California in the late 1800s.

Zinfandel is not widely cultivated outside the United States, but we have embraced this ragamuffin fruit like the many millions of other European immigrants looking for a place to call home.

All this washed over me the other day as I tasted through several zinfandels from Amador County, home to some of the earliest zinfandel plantings. I was particularly tickled by the finesse of the zin from Terra d’Oro’s Deaver Vineyard, which has vines planted during the Ulysses S. Grant administration.

Gil Kulers is a certified wine educator and a wine consultant for Tower Beer, Wine & Spirits. You can reach him at gil.kulers@winekulers.com.

Note: Wines are rated on a scale ranging up from Thumbs Down, One Thumb Mostly Up, One Thumb Up, Two Thumbs Up, Two Thumbs Way Up and Golden Thumb Award. Prices are suggested retail prices as provided by the winery, one of its agents, a local distributor or retailer.

3 comments Add your comment

Lis

June 13th, 2011
7:07 pm

Love Zins. Almost all of them but a few in particular. The Italian immigrants who brought the root stock to Northern California had to wait a long time to get these dividends. I gotta look for this one.
Thanks, Gil.

Gil Kulers

June 14th, 2011
7:36 pm

Beware, there really is no definition of Old Vines, but truly old vines (older than say 40-50 years) really show a finesse that you can’t find anywhere. Interestingly, as the vines get older the berry variation gets less variable, so you don’t have such jammy qualities. Thanks for reading!

Jenae

June 15th, 2011
12:10 pm

Glad to see Deaver grapes getting some good recognition! Our Zins almost always get great scores and awards, thanks for the post. We also have some Mission vines planted back in the 1860’s that go into making some of our best ports. Old vines are really the way to go.