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City & State or ZIP Tonight, this weekend, May 5th...
City & State or ZIP
City & State or ZIP Tonight, this weekend, May 5th...
City & State or ZIP

Fontana Candida, Superiore, Frascati

Gil Kulers

Gil Kulers

2009 Fontana Candida, Superiore, Frascati, Italy

2009 Fontana Candida, Superiore, Frascati, Italy

• $11

• Two Thumbs Up

• A refreshing, floral aroma with a hint of ozone-like freshness after a rain storm. Fresh fruit flavors included green apple, pear, pineapple, melon and lemony citrus notes with a decent measure of acidity.

(Wines are rated on a scale ranging up from thumbs down, one thumb mostly up, one thumb up, two thumbs up, two thumbs way up and Golden Thumb Award. Prices are suggested retail prices as provided by the winery, one of its agents, a local distributor or retailer.)


I recently was in the office of a wise and powerful wine educator in Atlanta. Ostensibly, I was there to for a private seminar on Israeli wines. His lesson, however, was interrupted by a call from a lady in Aniston, Ala., who was looking for Lacryma Christi (tear of Christ). An uncommon wine made in Campania, Italy, we were nonetheless able to recommend a couple producers she’d have a shot at finding in Aniston.

“Wow,” I thought to myself as my colleague politely assisted this persistent wine lover, “people do drink wines outside the insular world of cab, merlot, chardonnay and pinot grigio.”

I found this a heartening sign that Armageddon, at least for the world of wine, is still far in the future. That night, I returned home resolute to open a bottle—a bottle of something different.

Fresh out of Lacryma Christi, I chose a Frascati, a blended white wine from an area south of Rome. This wine is comprised of mostly malvasia (a requirement for Frascati) and trebbiano grapes. In some ways, with its crisp, mineral and floral qualities, it reminded me of a riesling. In other ways, with its melon, citrus and pineapples notes, I was thinking sauvignon blanc.

Different? Yes. Yummy? Absolutely. And it made our family’s Wednesday night chicken tacos all the more interesting.

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