It’s difficult not to feel bombarded by all the advertisements and news stories screaming, “Now’s the perfect time to refinance your home!” And with the historically low interest rates out there — and many of us trying to save a dollar anywhere we can — it’s no wonder people are investigating options to pay less on their home loan each month.
There’s a lot of free information out there, but it can be tricky to wade through if you’re unsure of what you’re doing. So, where do you start?
“The first question really is, ‘Do I really need to refinance?’ ” says Ted Jenkin, co-CEO of Oxygen Financial, an Alpharetta financial planning firm.
Many people get tempted by a lower interest rate, Jenkin says. “They don’t go through the math to say, ‘Does it really make sense for me to refinance?’ ”
Jenkin also says people should consider their personal timeline before refinancing. For example, if you’re 40 years old and refinance into a new 30-year mortgage, do you really want to be paying it off until you’re 70?
“Of all the people I’ve seen be successful, almost all of them have no mortgage debt into retirement,” Jenkin says.
People ultimately should consider the total cost they’ll end up paying on their home, says Cass Chappell, president of financial planners Chappell, Mayfield & Associates in Atlanta.
“We’re such a cash-flow-oriented society,” Chappell says. “We’re so focused on, ‘What’s my monthly payment?’ without looking at the total payment.”
In fact, many times you’ll end up paying much more if you refinance your house over 30 years, even with a lower rate, than you would if you had, say, 15 years left on your mortgage with a higher rate, Jenkin says.
“The allure of [refinances] is that it’s a lower payment, but it’s a payment for longer,” Chappell says. “It’s only good if it’s going to lead to a lower total payment.”
Also, make sure you have a basic understanding of the mortgage system, including how points work. A point is equal to 1 percent of the total principal amount of the loan, and it’s one way lenders or mortgage brokers make money. Some lenders will quote a rate based on your paying those points up-front. If that tightens your belt too much, you can instead roll the cost of points into your loan.
But that will increase your loan principal — and, thus, your monthly payments — and usually cost more over the life of the loan.
Similarly, make sure to factor in closing costs. When you see someone advertise “no closing costs,” it doesn’t mean you don’t have to pay money.
“They roll the cost into the note,” says Jenkin. “When you actually close the loan, it might be $105,000 [on a $100,00 loan], so you actually take on more debt.”
– By Lauren Davidson, Atlanta Bargain Hunter
See a great deal I should know about? Email me at ldavidson@ajc.com. You can also follow me on Facebook or on Twitter @atlbargains.
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February 1st, 2011
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Amen!
February 1st, 2011
8:09 am
Great points. People need to sit down and list out the total expense associated with a refi and compare the costs to staying with their current mortgage (even if it’s a higher rate) before they decide to move forward. Since a portion of each month’s payment goes to principal, you are in essence paying yourself. What really counts in the analysis is the portion of the mortgage payments that go toward interest (not the principal) along with the up-front costs like discount points and closing costs mentioned in the article. Unless you are improving your rate by 2% or can shorten the term of your mortgage, and you plan to stay in your home for more than 4-5 more years, refinancing is usually a bad idea, even if the monthly payment is lowered. Bankrate.com has some excellent on-line calculators to help people figure out the portion of each month’s payment that goes to principal and to interest.
Tychus Findlay
February 1st, 2011
8:45 am
We recently completed a refi on our house and after dropping over a full percentage point, we ultimately reduced our TCO by almost $150K assuming we made payment at the new rate. On the other hand, if we continue to pay our original mortgage each month as we’ve budgeted, we pay off a 30 year note in like 14 years, which would reduce the TCO by almost $250K versus our original mortgage.
That’s the primary driver for losing 3 years of payments and another set of closing costs to execute a refinance.
MBD
February 1st, 2011
8:58 am
Great points. Also the cost of refinancing (at least 3 %) is very high. Everybody wants to ride on your money – this fee, and that fee, $500.00 for attorney, this survey, that survey, your home evaluation, inspection, etc… I would rather pay $5k extra toward the principal, and shorten the mortgage by 6 months, plus some extras when i can, but the loan sharks do not like to hear that, because they loose their commission, etc. They always make it look like they are doing you a favor, but in reality it is the other way around..
I did it!
February 1st, 2011
9:30 am
Just refinanced at a rate 3.9% lower than original mortgage, but I will continue to pay the monthly amount of the old mortgage and will payoff loan in 13 years and 3 months. I did it because my wife has been unemployed for almost a year and the new loan gives us some income flexibility. When she returns to work we will maximize existing retirment investments with her additional income. We should payoff home 10 years before retirement.
Lauren Davidson
February 1st, 2011
10:10 am
Congratulations, Tychus and I did it! What a great feeling to know you’re reducing your total cost–or paying off your loan faster!
justmy2cents
February 1st, 2011
5:40 pm
went from 5 7/8 on the 80% @ 15 years and 8 1/4 on the 20% @ 30 years into 15 years at 3 7/8!!!!
pedro
February 1st, 2011
7:03 pm
@ justmy2cents – you must have some stellar credit. Who did you use for refi?
I have 6% on 80 for 30 years and 8.75% on 10 – the problem is that the 10 got switched to a line of credit at the last minute and I really need to get rid of it.
justmy2cents
February 2nd, 2011
10:49 am
@ pedro- credit union of georgia…. http://www.cuofga.org